Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Belcarra Blouse Winner!

We have a winner in the Belcarra Blouse Pattern Giveaway! 


Congrats to Stephanie H.N. in our random drawing.
Stephanie, please email me at fabricmartblog (a) gmail.com to claim your prize. If I do not hear from you by Friday, May 2, we will select another name.




If you would like your own copy of the Belcarra Blouse, check out our website here!



To view many of the other patterns Fabric Mart carries, click here.

Monday, April 28, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew-Along: Julie's Finished Dress!

I'm so excited to share with you the dress that YOU helped me pick out! Thank you to all that voted on which pattern we should sew together AND for selecting the fabric that I would sew with. I hope you all got something out of it, whether you were sewing along or not. 

The big reveal:

Overall, I thought the pattern was pretty easy! I liked the collar on the knit dress. You don't see collars in knit too often. (Makes me want to explore making knit tops with collars!) I was really glad I made a muslin because there were a few things that I needed to address. The bodice needed to be cut smaller than the skirt and the back neckline needed to be smaller. I also made the sleeves thinner.




The tab on the sleeve was really clever. Another feature you would not expect in a knit garment. In fact, I have at least three woven RTW blouses in my closet that have this feature. 



I wasn't sure if I would like pockets in the dress, because a few years ago I made a dress with pockets similar to this and didn't like the way it looked. But I think these sit far enough back that it wasn't a problem. I used a heavier fabric for my muslin and the pockets don't sit as nicely. So I think fabric choice also has a lot to do with it too. 



I decided not to make the belt that came with the dress. I made it and did not like the way it looked. Because the fabric is already busy, the belt just blended in I plan on making a solid black knit belt to go with this dress, but didn't have any black knit at the moment! But in the meantime, I used a thin belt from my closet. 



I took the dress for a test drive soon after finishing it and did notice the gaping neckline as the day went on. I don't know if it was just because of wear or the fact that I was conscious about keeping it in place, that I ended up stretching it. I think I may tack the front piece in place so that I don't have this problem in the future! If I make the dress again, I also think I may try some Seams Right (which I mentioned using in the shoulder seams) along the facing to help hold it in place. Anyone else have a suggestion on this? Seems like it is an inevitable thing...



If you missed the sew-along steps and would like to reference them, click here



Who's ready to win a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart!?!?! 
Well get those dresses finished and take some photos of the completed dress! Blogging about it is definitely encouraged, but not required! And don't forget to add the Reader's Pick Sew-Along widget to your page! (See widget along the right side bar.) To enter the giveaway, email me [fabricmartblog (a) gmail.com] a photo of the finished dress by Wednesday, May 7th. I will post everyone's finished dresses on Thursday, May 8th. Then at random, select a winner of a $50 gift certificate for FabricMartFabrics.com. To be considered, your dress must have been made during the sew-along and be completed.

If you have photos of your progress or would like to share your dress before the big reveal, you can definitely post photos on our Flickr page! I can't wait to see what everyone else's dress looks like!!

~ Julie

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew-Along: Finishing Up

Hey everyone! I'm not going to waste everyone's time with the last couple of steps, they are simple enough and I don't have any enlightening suggestions to share with you!

So put a hem in your dress, made the belt and any other last finishing touches!

I will be posting my finished dress as soon as my husband's hockey game is over, so he can take some photos!



When you are finished with your dress, please email me a photo of the finished product. I will post everyone's dress on the blog! You can also post it on Flickr, but I will not be counting any photos from Flickr into the drawing for the $50 gift certificate. Feel free to blog about it too! I will link your photo to your blog, if you have one.

To enter the random drawing for a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart, email me (Fabricmartblog (a) gmail.com) a photo of your finished garment by Wednesday, May 7th. I will post everyone's finished dresses, then at random select a winner. To be considered, your dress must have been made during the sew along.

So get moving if you are behind! And if you didn't have a moment to sew along with me, feel free to do so now! I'll post some photos tomorrow of my finished dress!

Thursday, April 24, 2014

New Sewing Pattern from Sewaholic Patterns! The Belcarra Blouse

Sewaholic Patterns does it again...creates another fabulous design! And we're so lucky to have this pattern in stock! This semi-fitted, pullover blouse creates the illusion of a loose fitting blouse, with shaping in all the right places. 


We have this pattern in stock! Click here to buy it now!

The pattern calls for lightweight woven fabrics to be used. We have a nice selection of wovens in both natural and synthetic fibers. Here are some of my favorite picks: 


This gorgeous Clematis Blue China Silk would be perfect in this blouse, especially in view B, which has pleats along the shoulder line.



Light pink and blush fabrics are trendy this season. This Dusty Pink Poly Crepe de Chine would make a lovely blouse!



This Orchid Stripe Silk/ Cotton Voile is the NOW color! (2014 Pantone Color of the Year!) Lovely color with a delicate stripe. 



This Abstract Swirls Silk Chiffon, a designer fabric, would be fun to play with print placement. 

This is just a sampling of the fabrics that are great for this blouse. Browse through the website and pick your favorite fabric. If you purchase something from the website, don't forget to purchase the pattern! 

Share with us what fabric you would pair with the Belcarra Blouse! Copy a link from our website below and we will pick at random, a winner, to get the Belcarra Blouse pattern for FREE!! Drawing will take place Tuesday, April 29!

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew-Along: Sleeves

We're in the home stretch! Just the sleeves and the finishing touches...then we are done! If you're following our Flickr page, you can see the progress that is being made by many of our participants. Click here to see what's going over there. We even have two ladies that have been sewing their dresses together! What a great thing to do with your sewing friends!

Today's step focuses on the sleeves. This pattern has two options: short sleeves and 3/4 length sleeves with a tab. Sewing the sleeves to the dress is a pretty straight forward process, but I will share a trick that I learned in setting the sleeves. I used the 3/4 length sleeves with a tab, so that is what I will focus on.   Also, I usually have to grade my sleeves to fit to my liking, so I will share that information with you too.

We won't be creating your regular 3/4 length sleeve with this dress...there is a tab! Sew together the tab like the directions state. Sew a buttonhole as directed. I decided not to include buttonhole directions in this step because every sewing machine does it a little differently. I have a Bernina and I love that it has a memory function to save the size of the buttonhole so each one can be the same. No guessing on my part! 

I never sewed a buttonhole onto a knit before. This was somewhat challenging. The stitches creating the buttonhole were not as close as I would have liked. You can see that in the photo below. (See the white sticking out through the stitches!) Plus the top-stitching around the tab didn't get as nice as I would have liked, but I'm not going to lose sleep over it.


And of course because I'm the "figure it out as I go" type, I've now looked up how to eliminate these problems! The Last Stitch has a great tutorial on sewing buttonholes on knits. Johanna suggests using interfacing to stabilize both sides of where you are putting a buttonhole. Because we already interfaced one side of the tab, I would recommend cutting a small piece of the same interfacing you used for the tab and fuse it on both sides of where the buttonhole will be going. If your fabric is heavier than an ITY knit, interfacing on one side of your tab should be fine.  If you have a suggestion, please share!

Now it's time to sew the tab on to the sleeve. Hopefully you marked the tab placement on your sleeve! When the sleeve is finished, the tab will cleverly gather up your sleeve for a really nice RTW touch!



I don't know about you, but I find that most patterns make their sleeves huge. Of course there are so many shapes and sizes to accommodate, so if you're more thin armed, this step will work for you. I did not want the sleeve to be baggy, so I measured my arm circumference to alter the sleeves. I measured the circumference of my upper arm and slightly above and below my elbow. 

Upper arm measurement: 12" around


Elbow Measurement: 10" around


I don't want the sleeves to be skin tight, so I pinned about 3/8" more than my measurement. The top of the sleeves, which will connect to the dress, was close to the measure of my arm circumference, so I did not change that, but used that as the starting point for tapering. I marked 10 3/8" near the elbow then, tapered from the top of the sleeves to my markings. 



Trying on the sleeve for size! The purple line shows the 5/8" seamline. The pink line shows the grading done to make the sleeve fit to my liking.  Because this will  end up being a 3/4 length sleeve, I did not measure my wrist to fit the sleeve. You can see in the photo below that it is looser at the wrist. Since it will be bunched up in the tab, I wanted to make sure I had room to move! 



Use a 3" hem on the sleeve, press to get a nice clean fold and you're finished! 



Just attach the sleeves to the bodice and try it on. How does it feel? Share your progress photos on our Flickr page! Or share a photo (link) with us in the comments section.

Friday, April 18, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew Along #5 - Attaching Skirt and Bodice; Inserting Elastic

In today's step, I will focus on inserting the elastic. Before you do this, be sure to attach the bodice to the skirt pieces, matching side seams and other markings. Use the waistline marking as your seam allowance. Then sew a second seam line 1/4 or so from the edge of the fabric, leaving an opening for you to insert the elastic. You've now created the elastic casing! 





When first looking at this pattern, I didn't realize it had an elastic waistline. It actually made me happy because then any size adjustments can be altered with the elastic! 

I had someone ask me in a previous step what elastic to use. There are a variety of different elastics out there, but two of the most common are woven and knit. Woven elastic is sturdy and knit elastic is softer. I used a woven elastic because that is what I had in my stash. (I keep a variety of different elastics on hand.) But if I had the option, I would probably pick a knit elastic because the knit I made the dress with is a lightweight knit. So I would say it is personal preference. When you start using wider elastics, you will notice a big difference between knit and woven. Then I would say that you should select one over the other depending on your project.

If you're new to sewing, maybe you've never inserted elastic into a garment. I use a safety pin to fish it through the casing. I have the safety pin "stitched" through the elastic so that the elastic does not bunch up on the pin as you fish it through. As I was fishing the elastic through, I couldn't get it through the pocket area very easily. Because of all the thicknesses of fabric, it was hard to pick the right slot. (It's hard to explain it until it happens, so I'm sure you will find this problem when you do it too!) I had to keep moving the safety pin backwards a few inches and then trying to guide it into another opening until finally the safety pin went through. So just watch for that as you go. 



 Once you have the elastic inserted, attach the safety pin to the other end of your elastic and try the dress on. Adjust to your liking. I sew the elastic ends together by machine.  This ensures that it's not going to come apart in wearing!





Now that you have the bodice and skirt sewn together and the elastic inserted, press the casing toward the bodice and top-stitch the casing to the bodice section. If you have a hard time doing this, no worries, you can cover it up with a belt!

That's it for today, pretty easy right? Next time we will work on the sleeves. 

I know some of you have asked how long the sew-along will be and when the finished garment will be due to be entered to win a $50 gift certificate. I'm thinking we will wrap up with the sew-along late next week. Then I will be giving everyone two weeks from the last post date to finish the dress and submit it to be entered to win a gift certificate!

Monday, April 14, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew-Along #4 - Pockets and Skirt

So how is everyone doing? I know some of you might have played catch up over the weekend. Any issues you need to discuss? Let me know, I'd be happy to help! 
Whether you're sewing along or just watching from a far, check out our Flickr page. Participants have uploaded photos of the fabrics they are using. 

Today's step is quite easy. I don't have very much advice on this one, but I do have photos of some steps! Find your pocket pieces. With right sides together, place one pocket on the skirt front and stitch. Press seam toward pocket. You will need to under-stitch the pocket. What does understitch mean? You are actually stitching the seam to the pocket. The stitch is not visible from the outside. It is there to hold your pocket inside the skirt. You don't want a floppy pocket on a pretty dress! 



Once you have under-stitched, press the pocket to the inside and pin the pocket and top-stitch. 



Fold your pocket piece in half, matching notches. Stitch along the bottom of the pocket. Now you've created your pocket! Baste the top and side pocket to your skirt so that you have a completed skirt front.


Stitch the front and back skirts together. 

That's all for today. It's nice to have an easy step for a Monday! You can get these steps done in 30 minutes or less!

Friday, April 11, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew-Along #3 - Bodice Facing and Finishing

We're moving along nicely in the sew-along and next we are working on the collar and neckline. If you are not putting a collar on your dress, skip to the neckline facing step. We'll see you there!

Collar: The collar needs to be stabilized with some interfacing. First you want to start with an interfacing suitable for knits. I wrote a post on interfacing last year, check it out here. Sew the collar pieces, right sides together. Clip corners and turn face out. Use a point turner to push out the collar points. 



The directions tell you to under-stitch the collar facing. To be honest with you, I tried to, but was unsuccessful! I don't feel this step is necessary, especially since you're going to be top-stitching the collar piece. Did anyone successfully under-stitch the collar facing? What do you think the reasoning behind this was? I could see it being helpful for stability, but the top stitching was good enough for me. When I top-stitched, I did that first, then I put in the basting stitches because in the past when I've done the basting stitch, then top-stitching, I get a pucker at the end of my top-stitching, which makes it look really unprofessional! 

Stitch the collar on the bodice, with the facing side down. 



Neckline facing: In reading reviews about this pattern, gaping of the neckline was a hot topic. The gaping neckline is almost bound to happen with patterns like this. I think it also depends on your body type. If you have the bust to fill it out, you may be able to get away with it more than someone with a small bust. It also depends on where you let the bodice pieces lay on you. If you look through Pattern Review at the photos people have posted, you can see how some have the neckline fold up higher on them than others. Some actually have the bodice pieces under their bust. 

If you find that you have a gaping neckline, I would recommend a couple fixes. When sewing the side seams on your bodice, give the front bodice more seam allowance than the back. It's like you're pulling the front bodice closer to you. As I was thinking of another solution, I thought you may be able to bring up the shoulder seam. But realized this step could only be done if you are not attaching your collar. It could still be done, you just have to place the collar differently. Just be careful you don't bring it up too much because you don't want large shoulders! And if you do it on one side, do it on the other. You don't want to be lop-sided either!

Ok, now that we've figured out how to fix a gaping neckline, lets work on the neckline! The directions tell you to fold the facing in half and stitch all layers to the bodice. Another option some of you may choose is to stitch one side of the facing to the bodice, then encase your seam in the facing. There could be a reason they didn't tell you to do that and maybe it has to do with the gaping. The exposed seam may give the neckline a little more stability, therefore creating less of a gape. 



Top-stitch the facing down so that the facing does not flip out!



Finished neckline!



While doing some research on this pattern, I came across a fun take on the neckline. Rachel from House of Pinheiro used a print and solid combo to create a really cute dress! The solid knit was used in the bodice and the print was used in the skirt and neck facing. I love the solid/print contrast! Plus she changed out the skirt for a circle skirt. I think I'm going to give that a try! 

Once your neckline is attached, lap over the right front bodice over the left and baste. I would also recommend basting the bottom along the notched edge. You will thank me later! And lastly, stitch the side seams together! 

Try it on. See how it fits. Show us your progress on Flickr


Have a great weekend and happy sewing! I'll check back periodically if anyone has a sewing crisis!

~ Julie

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew Along #2 - Bodice Pleats

On Monday when I introduced Step #1 - Cutting, Alterations and Thread, I mentioned about lengthening and shortening the bodice piece. Since then, the person that asked about this tried it out, using the directions from Handmade by Heather B, and it worked! So if you haven't cut out of your good fabric yet and need to do this step, give it a try!

Since we are working with knits, it is important to make sure you have a STRETCH NEEDLE. One thing I found when I was starting to sew with knits, was that my seams and hems would break because there was no give. Knits stretch with you, the thread does not. Some sewing machines have a knit stitch. (Check your manual for this info.) If your sewing machine doesn't, set your machine to a straight stitch, but modify your zig-zag stitch ever so slightly. (Or use the zig-zag, but on a very fine zig-zag, almost straight! This setting depends on your sewing machine.) I have a Bernina and it comes with a knit stitch. I don't care for it, so I use a straight stitch with a slight zig-zag. 

Here is a photo of my settings: 

I do tug slightly on a knit when I'm sewing with it, but not too much. You don't want fabric ripples!

So today we're going to make the pleats for the bodice. I'm not going to go through every step they tell you to do, because that would just be repetitive, but give you hints, reminders and suggestions that go along with the step. 

When making your pleats you may fumble around with matching up your lines and sticking the pins into place. Starting from the end of the fabric, I pierce the pin through the line and then through the line on the other side of the fabric. This ensures that you've got one section all lined up. Then go back into the line with the pin and match up the line again. 



When sewing your pleats, be sure to keep the other pleats out of the way! You don't want to sew them all together! 

Listen to the directions with they say press and baste your pleats up or down! It definitely helps the dress look great in the finished product!  


 After your pleats are in place, use some seam binding to stabilize your shoulder seam. I used a transparent seam tape called, Seams Great Binding by Dritz.


That's all for today! This step was easy. The next couple of steps get more complicated. 

Share your fabric choices on our Flickr page! Some of you have shown us what you are using and we'd love to see more! 

Any questions or suggestions? Comment below. 

Monday, April 7, 2014

Reader's Pick Sew-Along #1: Cutting, Thread and Alterations

Ready, set, sew!

Hold on, hold on. We can't get started with the sew-along until we cut out our pieces! Now some of you might have done this already, and some of you might have already made a muslin of this dress. (I did!) But for good reason...I needed to know what I was doing so I could help you! I do not consider myself an expert at this pattern, or anything for that matter, but I'm here to help answer your questions and guide you the best I know. Plus, I'm hoping to have fun with this too! Please note that I will be somewhat detailed in my directions, so some things you may want to pay attention to and other parts you may not-- it all depends on your skill level. As someone who went to school to be a teacher, I have to always assume that I'm working with various skill levels-- beginner to advanced! And if you are advanced and I miss something, please chime in! I'm learning a lot doing this sew-along! (I may also share with you a few of my mistakes, because I'm sure there is someone else out there that made the same mistake!)

So here we go...

Cutting Out the Pattern Pieces: Cutting out your pattern pieces can be one of the most important things you do. If they are not cut out correctly, you risk the garment not draping or fitting well. Assuming that all of you are using 60" wide fabric, the pattern wants you to cut out some of you pieces on the fold, meaning that your selvedges meet in the middle of your fabric. I always worry that my fabric is not going to be on grain, but with a cutting board with grid, a yard stick and pins, you should be able to make it work.

Find the center of your fabric. I find it by folding the fabric in half, then pressing it slightly. Then on my cutting surface, I lay the fabric face up, single layer. I center the crease on the cutting board, which will be my guide. Then with right sides together, I bring the selvedges to the fold making sure that the fabric lays flat. It is hard to get a straight edge on a knit. (When working with wovens, you can usually rip them to make a straight edge. You can't do that with a knit.) Your goal is to make sure the folds lay flat and fold smoothly.If my fabric does not stay in place, I use pins to keep it in place. Sometimes you can use the print on the fabric to help match things, but prints are not always printed on grain. I also watch the grain on the fold to see if it looks like the "lines" follow the fold. Don't worry if the edge of your fabric does not match up. The fabric cutter may have not cut your fabric on grain! (It's hard to do with knits!)




I do not always follow the cutting directions that the pattern gives me. Sometimes I feel like they are wasteful with the way they lay out pattern pieces. With this pattern, I cut out all of the pattern pieces that needed to be on the fold first. While laying things out, I realized that I may not have enough fabric... The fabric measured as 2 1/2 yards, but there was a huge curved cut making it more like 2 1/4 yards. This doesn't always make a big difference when you're not following the pattern directions, but it did this time! I had just enough fabric for the dress! 


Before cutting out ANY pattern pieces, make sure you have enough fabric for the single pieces. (The two front bodice pieces.) Go ahead and cut out the pattern pieces. 

Choosing thread: This step may sound silly to you, but I honestly had no idea which thread to pick. There are so many colors and not any dominate ones. I didn't like how the light colors looked, so it was a toss-up between black and purple. I picked the purple. It seemed to blend in well!


Cutting Alterations: Whether you are making a muslin as we go, or you already made it, no worries! I did not have too many cutting alterations. Plus I'm still learning about my body alterations, so I'm not as picky right now. I made two adjustments: made a smaller back bodice and cut out a size 16 on the skirt bottom and size 14 on the bodice. I made a muslin and it was good I did! When I tried on the muslin bodice, the back of the neck area really gapped. I'm not really sure what to call it. Do I have a sloped back? I could literally make a dart at the center back and still be comfortable. So my husband pinned it the best he could (see photo) and I used that as my guide to make the back smaller. 


When I tested the dart on my muslin, I made a dart that went about half way down my back. Then on the pattern, folded it along the fold edge to mimic the dart I made on the muslin. When cutting out the pattern in the good fabric, I still placed the pattern piece on the folded edge. It was just not exactly on the grain.

Grading up a size for the bottom was easy. Because I am working with a knit, it is easier to fudge the grading than to actually grade each pattern piece to another. If I were grading more than one size, I would have graded the waist of the skirt to match the waist of the bodice. But instead, I just stretched the bottom of the bodice to fit with the skirt.

Over on the Flickr page, one of our followers asked, "I started cutting out my pattern pieces and I need to add 1" to the bodice length. With the pleating in the front, I am not sure how to do this. There are no markings to show where to lengthen." I didn't notice that the lengthening lines were not included in this pattern. Honestly, I was a little stumped! So I did a little research and came across Handmade by Heather B. She has a really good tutorial on how she had to shorten the bodice and drafted her own lines. These lines look to be in a good place to also lengthen. So if you're having trouble, click the link above and let us know how it turned out!

If you have an adjustment question that pertains to cutting out your pattern, ask now!  

Here is a timeline of the sew-along. 
#2 - Bodice Pleats
#3 - Bodice Facing and Finish Bodice
#4 - Pockets and Skirt
#5 - Attach Bodice to Skirt
#6 - Sleeves
#7 - Hem, Belt and Finishing Touches

Step Two will be posted on Wednesday! I'll be here to ask any questions in the meantime!

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Spring has Sprung in Colette's Macaron Dress!


Does this dress scream Spring or what?! I love it! I have to admit I sewed this back in February to keep my spirits up during the frigid weather. But have not had time to blog about it!



I used Colette Pattern's Macaron dress. This was my first attempt at a Colette Pattern. I saw a lot of good reviews, so I felt like I couldn't go wrong. Once I figured out whether I was making the correct size or not, the dress sewed together like a breeze. I had a lot of trouble getting the bust to fit correctly. I made multiple muslins only to get frustrated and take a breather for a week. I did not want this to be left in the pile of unfinished projects because I really had my heart set on it working. With a lot of patience, I made it work! 



I chose the Joyful Garden Cotton Pique for the dress fabric. It has some stretch to it, which makes fitting it nice because you can make it fitted and still have the stretch for movement. For the yoke, I found a beautiful cotton lace during one of my business trips. I had been on the hunt for the perfect lace for a long time. I wanted a sturdy, non-stretch lace. I didn't want it to be too delicate because it would literally hold up the rest of the dress. I definitely didn't want it to sag with time. The lace looks delicate, but has more stability than you think it would. Perfect match!


Choosing my size - As I said earlier, I had a hard time choosing my size. I cut out the first muslin in size 12, based off of my bust measurements. But then I realized the bust was too big. So I cut out another muslin in size 10. That worked much better, but should have probably cut size 8, based off of my high bust measurement, then do a full bust adjustment...but I didn't! I had to sew a larger side dart with the size 10 but it was much better than when I cut out the size 12. I also had to take in 1/2" at the top of the side seams and taper to blend with the high waist. It was a little tricky considering there is a side zipper (invisible.) I used a pink invisible zipper. I have a number of invisible zippers in my stash that I've picked up along the way, and of course didn't have any that matched the fabric, so this was the next best thing! It looks great! When sewing the shoulder seams I had to use a 7/8" seam allowance, rather than 5/8". I think I should have done a full bust adjustment to eliminate all of these issues, but really didn't feel like doing it! (I know, that's really bad!) 

Ooops! It doesn't match up all that well after a few last minute alterations, but I'm not concerned. That's hidden under my arm!

I had no problem fitting the dress bottom. It fit well and the pleats in the front actually looked good too. I was worried that they would puff out too much, but I pressed them good, so they stayed. 


Because I used lace for the yoke, I did not cut out the facing pieces. Also on the sleeves, the pattern called for four sleeve pieces to be cut out, then sewn together for lined sleeves. Instead, I made my own bias tape out of cream silk I had in my stash. 

So how did I do this? I cut out 1" strips on the bias. With right sides together I pinned the bias tape to the lace, stretching the silk ever so slightly to go around the curves. 



After sewing the bias onto the edge of the sleeve, I folded it in half, encasing the raw edge, then folded it up, so the bias was not sticking out below the lace. Then I sewed the bias in place. 



The finished edge of the lace sleeve. I also used this technique along the neckline rather than cutting out the facings, which would show through the lace. The bias also gave the edge of the delicate lace some stability. 



The bias also gave the edge of the delicate lace some stability.



Overall, I'm really happy with the way the dress turned out. I would like to try it again, but do a full bust adjustment. I found a great tutorial on the Lazy Stitching Blog. Now I just have to put my mind to it! (If you've read my last two posts, you hear FBA mentioned a lot...)


What are you sewing for spring?
~ Julie