Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Made by a Fabricista: Silk Georgette Simplicity 1059!

Hello, again!

June is always one of my favorite months, I absolutely love and adore the super hot and humid weather we get in this area during our summers (people think I am weird, I know, lol).  But with that said, I cannot stand wearing anything clingy or not breathable during the summer months.  (I will wear poly in summer, but it has to be in a very loose garment!)

When I realized that Fabric Mart had some gorgeous printed silk double georgettes (my favorite right now!) on their website a while back, I knew immediately that I wanted to make something in one of them for a summer sundress.  I also realized that since it was sheer, I would need an underlining of some sort, and since they had a lightweight cotton voile in a complementary color available (this is a good choice, too), I made sure to grab some of that, as well, so that the dress could be super lightweight and still opaque enough to wear without a slip (eww, slips in summer, talk about clingy!).


I had to settle in on a pattern choice, so I focused on patterns that were sundresses, but also made to be sewn with a lightweight set of fabrics like voiles and georgettes.  I saw that I had Simplicity 1059 in my stash, a reprint of a 1969 dress with a center front and back seam, and with a v-neck and a shoulder pleat detail.  It listed lightweight fabrics as suitable fabrics, so I knew I would be fine.  It also seemed to flow away from the body, so the garment wouldn't cling.  Perfect!



Though the pattern is simple enough, and it is suitable for the fabric choices I had made, once I began the process of creating the garment, I realized I was in for a WHOLE lot of work.  Eep!

Above you see my silk double georgette, a daisy printed designer fabric that was available for a hot minute and then gone.  They still have some available in other prints, and if you love the feel of lightweight fabrics, and are ready to put in some work, definitely pick them up.  I am absolutely thrilled with my end result.  Worth all the energy expended.

The cutting process was time consuming.  It took quite a while to lay out the fabric on my gridded cutting mat.  Once I had accomplished the smoothing of the grain, etc., I still had to pin the fabric to the mat in order to keep it from shifting (you can also use weighted items to hold the fabric down).  Once I had pinned the fabric, I then pinned the pattern pieces onto the fabric.  Some people recommend a single layer layout, but I double folded the fabric very carefully, and the grain stayed, so I could do a traditional pattern layout and cutting.  (But remember, I really took a LONG time laying and smoothing my fabric out--probably close to forty minutes.)

The front pieces stayed on grain, but I knew that if I wanted the pieces to stay stable, and I wanted to mark the pleats and other markings, I would need to underline it as soon as possible.


As soon as I was done cutting the georgette, I cut the voile using the same pieces (that took far less time, thankfully).  I then placed the silk georgette on top of the voile, and on the floor, I hand sewed the two together using a long running stitch in a bright red thread (I wanted to see the thread after).  I then made marks on the voile in a red marker so I could use them when sewing later. 

I have read that some people use silk georgette on its own without an underlining, as they don't want to lose the super drapey feel, but I can only imagine how difficult it is to control it and mark it on its own.  I know it's possible, as I have seen the results, but I felt like my garment is still pretty drapey even with the voile underlining and facings, etc.


These markings were super helpful, and made the sewing accurate.  The underlining kept the georgette "behaving," and I was able to sew it up by using a straight stitch plate and a straight stitch foot.  Nothing caught, and the seams are very secure.


The inside shows how much went into making sure that my time and energy were not wasted.  I absolutely HAD to make french seams as the georgette was super-ravelly.  I seamed wrong sides together a 1/4" and then place the right sides together and seamed a further 3/8".  The seams are very nice and I know they will last forever.

I knew I couldn't french seam the neckline or the armscye, so I stay-stitched those to keep them in good shape, and then carefully applied the facings that came with the pattern (I prefer facings to bias binding, so was happy to see those pattern pieces).  I clipped and cut where needed, and after understitching, I pressed the facings to the inside of the garment, and handstitched the facings to the garment where needed to keep them from flipping out.  The armscye needed handstitching the whole length on the outside, but the neckline only needed it in a few places.  I may eventually handstitch the whole neckline facing, but for now it is fine.

The handstitching, btw, is sewn to the underlining, and not the georgette, so its function is invisible from the outside.

The one problem I ran into was in the creation of the v-neck with the facing.  I find many pattern companies poorly explain how to attach these to the neckline, and this pattern was no exception.  I made it work in the end, but I would prefer a cleaner finish.  I will continue to seek out better explanations, and hopefully the next time I attempt a v-neck, I will have one in my library of sewing knowledge.  (Fortunately I prefer other neckline finishes to the v-neck!)


The hem was a bit of a mess once the dress was sewn up, so I chose to hang the garment on my dress form and find a common length and sew a bias hem facing to the line I found.  I sewed the hem facing on, serged the excess off from below the sewn line, and then pressed the hem facing up.  After that, I hand sewed the facing to the underlining, so that it wouldn't show through on the opposite side (like I had done with the facings).

Out of all the things I added to the structure of this dress, this was the one that changed the garment most.  It actually helps the hemline stand away from the body a bit, which I personally find pleasing, and which I believe suits the silhouette nicely.  If you are not a fan of this, definitely steer away from this hem treatment.  Another great hem treatment for this kind of garment is a rolled hem, which I think would keep the "floaty" feel around more.


Here's the garment right side out.  It looks a bit plain sitting on the hanger, but the subtle shaping and details really shine on the body once worn.  I chose to use the size 10 at the shoulder, bust, and waistline, and graded out to a size 12 at the hips/hem.  Though I am a size 14 or 16 in my hips, with this more a-line style, I can get away with grading out to a smaller size.  The shoulders/armscye were a touch tight on me, but I have square shoulders and neglected to do a square shoulder adjustment (I forgot every once in a while, especially with sleeveless designs, where I need the movement ease less).  Next time I will add a 1/4" to my shoulders at the outer bit.


The pleating looks odd if you stare at it too long, but since I rarely find that darted patterns work for my small/flat bustline, I prefer this treatment to that one.  I think on a solid color, this would be a more appreciated feature.

On another note, isn't that fabric sublime?  I feel like I am wearing air when I have it on, it is that wispy feeling.  The colors are so pretty, too, and the print reminds me of both Van Gogh and some of those 90s babydoll dress prints I used to love when I was a young girl.


From the side, belted.  The pattern includes a belt design to it, and if I could stomach working with the georgette for a couple more hours, I will make it, but once I was done with the dress and its many hours of work, I decided a store bought belt was more than fine (plus, I have two that match, this pink one and the sage one in the first photo).

The belt does hitch the dress up a bit, but the hem allowance is quite generous, so if you are taller, you should still be able to hem it to a place where even if the belt is worn, you won't be adding extra skin exposure to the equation.

The belt is meant to be worn at the empire line.  I did belt it lower, and it looked fine, but it lost its retro look when done that way.   I think the self belt would look especially pretty belted there, which is why I hope I get the desire to make the self belt soon.  :-)


From the back and unbelted.  If you look closely you can see that I did not add a zip here.  I chose to leave it out because the dress slipped on just fine over my head and my upper body.  If you have a larger upper body, you may want to add the zip. 


Finally a casual shot!  I do plan to wear the dress all dressed up with the belt and heeled sandals, but this way felt so comfortable, I know I will wear it like this too.  It is a super sweet look, either way.  Very feminine and just retro enough.  :-)  So glad I was able to give silk georgette a go with this pretty pattern.

Let me know if you have worked with this kind of fabric before and what you did with it!  I have a few yards of other designs laying around, and would love to be inspired!

~Dina, My Superfluities.

Monday, June 27, 2016

Summer of T-Shirts Event: Cashmerette's Concord T-Shirt Dress Hack

This week's post is from Jenny, Founder and Creative Director behind Cashmerette Patterns, a pattern line for the modern, curvy woman. This concept can be used on other t-shirt patterns too.


It’s really easy to turn the Cashmerette Concord T-Shirt into a casual dress! When you’re thinking about fabrics, consider using something a little heavier than your usual t-shirt jersey: a double-knit, ponte, or quilted knit would be a great idea. I’d also recommend sizing up a size or two to avoid too much cling over your midsection.



How to make your dress pattern

1. Trace your pattern pieces  - use the longest length option.



2. Take your front piece (1 A/B/C) and cut across the lengthen/shorten line.



3. Move the top and bottom pieces apart from each other, by the amount of additional length you need to take your t-shirt to a dress length. For my dress I lengthened it by 7 inches (I’m 5’6”), but you can do more or less depending on the hem length you want.



4. Place a spare piece of paper underneath the two pattern pieces, and tape it together.



5. Trim the paper along the sides so you now have an extra-long front piece.



6. Repeat this process with the back piece (2), adding the same amount of length.

7. Sew your dress in exactly the same way as the t-shirt!



Thanks again to Jenny for sharing this tutorial with us! You can purchase this pattern HERE.


Next week, Julie Marlow, a Palmer/Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor, will be sharing with us how to do a colorblocked t-shirt. Julie is also a garment sewing instructor at Charlotte Sewing Studio in Port Charlotte, FL. She has a T-Shirt of the Month club, where she introduces a "pattern hack" on the basic t-shirt She's a pro at this and that's why we asked her to join our event! 

Every Monday throughout the summer, we will share with you a pattern hack on a t-shirt pattern. I have lined up some of our Fabricistas as well as sewing experts such as Pamela from Pamela's Patterns! (And others, too!) 

Don't forget you can sew along with us at home. Share you t-shirt pattern hacks (new ideas you have and ideas that we have shared with you) on Facebook and Instagram using #FMSummerofTshirts. At the end of the summer, we will compile all the people that used the hashtag and you will be entered into a random drawing for $75 gift certificate to Fabric Mart!

Write your comments, I'd love to hear what you think of this. Do you have a favorite t-shirt pattern that was not mentioned? Share it with us!

See you next week! 
~ Julie

Saturday, June 25, 2016

Made By a Fabricista: Birthday Behavior


As a young adult, I never worked on my birthday (even though I was a mom already!). And I did (and still do!) consider it "my own personal holiday" :)

Since learning to sew, and now that I do work on my birthday, I make myself a new dress for the day!  The last couple of years, my bday falls on a weekday; so my birthday dress has to be work appropriate. Last year I made a knit shirtdress (still a closet favorite!) and this year, the moment I laid eyes on this button front sheath in the June Burda I knew this was it!


Doesn't she look so happy in her dress?! It could totally be her birthday!

I knew I needed something with some body but not too heavy since my birthday IS in July after all. I went straight to a couple of my favorite groups on Fabric Mart - cotton sateen and cotton twill and found this.

I LOVE this print! It works well as 'work-appropriate' animal print - light colored, small scale, neutral - it's cotton with a touch of Lycra, and is completely opaque - Win!




The description says it's semi-stiff which it is. The hand is similar to a lightweight denim or a heavy chambray (note: denim is a twill weave...chambray is a plain weave).  I'm not normally a huge fan of A-line shapes but on this dress, it just works. I felt the stiffer fabric would work well with the dress silhouette.

It washed up well and takes a hot iron like a champ. It did get more wrinkled during construction than I expected but is easy to press.

There are a lot of pieces to trace. But oh-so-worth it.

Love nice, clean interiors!

I made my standard Burda adjustments:
- Traced a 40 neckline with 42 for the rest
- 5/8" swayback adjustment
- Removed 3/8" from center back tapering to nothing at the waist
- Removed some of the curvature from the side seams. Basically connected a straight line from above the curve to below. I'm not actually sure it was at the hip, as it seems a bit low...but it stuck out in the way that skirts and dresses with hip curvature because I don't have what I call "sticky-outy" hips.



I also did a 3/4" full seat adjustment on the back skirt and sewed the center back seam at 3/8" instead of the 5/8" seam allowance I added. Some time ago, I realized I got a much better fit on skirts if I traced a 16(42) front and 18(44) back. Because this pattern only goes up to size 42, I improvised.

I don't need to lower the bust point or do an FBA with Burda patterns <3

I really love the overall fit of this dress and want another in a solid color!!!


Now, do you sew Burda? Do you ignore their instructions? If you don't sew Burda do you often read about sewers lamenting the instructions? Do you plan to make this dress?

Follow the instructions!

Or at the least, remember that the button bands go on at the end especially if you're attaching the belt! DO NOT ask me how I know! :)

Okay fine! I skipped ahead and had to do a bunch of unpicking AND reaching out for help (Thanks Beth!). I ended up having to pull a Tim Gunn but it does in fact WORK!  



The chalk line is the button band seam line


Then I sewed the top of the button band. I had to turn it and decide where to clip, etc but it works


I am quickly becoming a fan of these all-in-one clean finish facings. Such a lovely finish.



Burda didn't call for the facings to be interfaced - I did it anyway. And, because it can be hard to understitch this assembly, I trimmed my facings down 3/16" at the armhole to encourage the seam to roll to the inside. It generally works very well and especially so with lining fabrics. I ended up going back and understitching at the underarm seam and for about 2" on either side of it. It was bulky and I didn't want it flipping up/out.

Other notes:
I used 2-inch slides (I accidentally ordered slides with a center bar. I was disappointed but they work just fine!) and 5/8" buttons. The pattern appears to use larger buttons, but Burda does not specify. I had buttons that were almost the same bronze as the slides but only had 9 of them and I like to space buttons this size or smaller no more than 3" apart.

They don't match but they go :)


I used my walking foot for the entire dress except for the princess seams. I sewed those first to allow the convex side front piece to feed on bottom; helping the easing along. 

I decided not to topstitch the seams after doing the belt. It doesn't stand out. Perhaps if I would have doubled the thread or did a triple stitch...(though, I plan to use this pattern again in a solid and WILL topstitch!)

It was a lot of work but I absolutely love it!


I have to point out:
1) That's not actual bust gape. That is me being SO focused on having a button at the waist level because of the belt that I started there and then spaced out my buttons. For many of us full-busted ladies, we start with the button at the bust line and space out. Because we need to really lock-and-load! I'll sew in a hidden snap there.

2) That's not actual neckline gaping. It fit fine. But I have a penchant for trying things on again and again and again...and I rarely staystitch so my neckline stretched out just a little. 


I am so excited to wear my new address for my Birthday! 

Nakisha

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Made by a Fabricista: Border Prints Blues (and Whites)!

(Normally you only see me here once a month, but this month I have two posts scheduled, this special post on border printed fabric, and next Wednesday's, which is still a surprise!)

In April, we had our annual school auction to raise money for our school.  Every year it has a theme, and every year I try to make a dress that will be an appropriate match for the theme.  The first year I sewed my own dress for the auction, it was a "Kentucky Derby" theme, and I chose to make a Burda 7137 dress.  The next year was a "Space" theme, so I chose to make a dress using a galaxy printed fabric using McCall's 2401.  This year was "My Big Fat Greek Auction," so in keeping with tradition, I made a dress.  ;-)


We were asked to try and wear blue and white, and I figured I had best get on finding some blue and white fabric, because even though I have a ridiculous stash of fabric at my house (thank you, Fabric Mart!), I didn't have any blue and white fabric.  Wha?  But fortunately for me, Fabric Mart at the same time I was searching for some fabric, had a GORGEOUS border printed (in what appears to be a dutch tile motif) stretch cotton sateen from Maggy London (used in a similar way as it turns out here and here for non-pinterest people).  Not much was left in stock, and I was lucky to get the two and a half yards I did, which was just enough to fashion a really special dress for the occasion.

With the fabric in hand, I decided I needed a special dress pattern to highlight the amazing border print.  I didn't need a lot of special seaming, but I did know that a princess seam would likely fit better, so I knew I wanted a princess seamed bodice.  I also knew that a full skirt would best show off the border print (or at least make a big impact), so I chose a pattern with that as a feature, too.  (I have seen some amazing shift dresses in a border print fabric, but because this fabric's border print was aligned so the stretch would be gone if I placed the border at the hem, I knew that my hips and I needed something less "wiggle" and more "full.")

I ended up choosing Vogue 1499, a cap-sleeve dress from Anne Klein.  The original version is on the cover of the pattern, but there are also other versions floating around, like this one.  The dress seemed to nicely fit what I desired, and even though I knew that I would have to work around some of the seaming with careful pattern placement on the fabric when cutting, that it would still look pretty and unique overall.


Because this was a border print fabric, I knew that I would have special challenges when working with it, and I can definitely say that these are things to keep in mind with most border print fabric projects.

1. This fabric, though a stretch cotton sateen, had the stretch only perpendicular to the selvedge.  The border print was placed parallel to the selvedge, which means that if I wanted to use the very ornate and dramatic border at the hem, I would have to negate the stretch wherever I placed it.  In my mind, I knew I wanted that super beautiful border at the hem of the skirt, so I knew that I would have to lose all stretch at the skirt, which is also where I hold my weight, in my hips and thighs.  This is why I specifically chose to not use a shift/sheath dress.  (However, it would work if I had placed the cool border going up and down the dress, which would still look awesome--especially with a center seam!)

2. The bodice retained the stretch because the pattern in the center was equal and spaced the same whether up or down.  I was relieved that I could make the bodice fairly fitted without losing comfort.

3.  I definitely had to watch how I placed my floral motifs.  Those suckers were big!  If I had placed them off by a bit here or there, it would have been immediately noticeable.  I think the time spent on that and the extra fabric use was very much worth it, though, since the motifs line up properly, and the skirt's hem is at the right spot on the leg.

4. I had to add pockets because the original didn't include pockets.  I think that's a shame, but because the Vogue markings are similar amongst patterns, I was able to take a pocket pattern piece from another Vogue dress and make it work.


The dress itself was straight forward enough to make (my pattern review is here), and the make was fairly quick and painless once started.  The cotton sateen sewed up very well, and this is why cotton sateen is my absolute favorite fabric to work with.  :-)


The hemming part was my favorite part since the hem was at the selvedge, it required no finishing, and it was easy to visually press up and pin into a proper position.  This is a bonus for working with border prints, so yeah!


I absolutely loved wearing it that night, and felt like I had definitely taken on the challenge of the "Big Fat Greek" auction well.

I look forward to reading more about your border print makes (include links to your photos, would love to see the projects!).

Talk with you all again next Wednesday!

P.S. If any you are just desperate for this exact fabric, the Maggy London/London Times dress does pop up on ebay, but I know most of you would prefer to make your own.  :-)

~Dina, My Superfluities.

Monday, June 20, 2016

Summer of T-Shirts: Choosing a Pattern & Other Supplies


Let the festivities begin! 

This is the first post in the Summer of T-shirts Event! In this post, I will share with you some of the best t-shirt patterns out there. This list by no means are the only ones available, but ones that I have either tried or know from other sewers that they are good sewing patterns. I'll also share with you some extra supplies you will need for the pattern hacking process. 

When doing a pattern hack, it is so important to start with a pattern that fits you. So the first step (after you pick out the pattern of course), is to make sure the pattern fits you. Use the fit method you're most comfortable with (I use the Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting Method.) Then sew up the shirt without any pattern hacks. This will help you determine whether the shirt fits you and also gives you an idea of how it should be constructed. It's not easy pattern hacking something if you've never actually sewed the pattern before (especially for beginners). So don't skip this step in our event!

Here are some t-shirt pattern suggestions:

This is probably my most favorite knit t-shirt pattern There is really no need to tissue fit (if you choose that fit method) because the way you construct this pattern helps you fit it as you sew. Pamela gives you a lot of advice for every step of the process. I have pattern hacked this pattern (with and without the guidance of Pamela) and it's easy to alter and still looks great. Pamela has done some of the pattern hacking for us in a few of her other patterns.

The Classic T-Shirt Dress is a long version of the t-shirt pattern. It also includes sleeve, neckline and silhouette options as well as a color-blocking option. The Pretty Peplum Top is the t-shirt pattern with a peplum. New Necklines and Sleeves is a pattern that can be used with any of the patterns I listed above. Talk about easy peasy!



This is my favorite woven t-shirt pattern. It has a loose, somewhat boxy fit but is fitted at the shoulders so that it doesn't look like a tent. This pattern has been blogged about a lot and is a favorite in the sewing community. It's important to note that it is meant for wovens, but I'm sure stable knit fabrics would be ok too. Two years ago, in the Fabricista Fashion Challenge, I challenged the contestants to pattern hack this pattern. Check out their creations HERE



This is another great knit t-shirt pattern. I think what I like about this pattern is that it gives me practice using the Palmer/Pletsch tissue fitting method. The great thing about Palmer/Pletsch patterns are that they have all the alteration lines printed right on the tissue. There's no guesswork for where to draw the lines and it comes with instructions that will help you understand the tissue fitting method. It also comes with a few neckline and sleeve options.



I have not sewn this, but it is a favorite in the plus size sewing community. This pattern comes in size 12-28 and with sleeve, hem and neckline variations. 



Grainline Studio has made it on the list a second time for the knit t-shirt pattern, the Lark Tee. Comes with sleeve and neckline variations. I have not made this pattern before, but it gets good reviews from other sewers. Let us know what you think! 



Sewaholic Patterns are a favorite of many sewers and of course they have a basic shirt pattern. This comes with sleeve and neckline variations including a cowl neck! I have not made this pattern before, but there are loads of reviews out there. 



StyleArc has some of the most interesting and innovative patterns out there right now. It's easy to overlook a basic in their vast selection of patterns. I have not tried this pattern before, but one of our sewers will be sharing their pattern hack of this in a few weeks!




Other supplies
After you have a basic shirt pattern picked out, you'll want to make sure you have all the necessary supplies for "hacking" your pattern. 

1) Pattern Paper - I recommend two different kinds:

- Perfect Pattern Paper by Palmer/Pletsch  - This paper is the same paper used by McCall Pattern Company for all their patterns. It also has grid lines which make it easy to use (no need to measure!) 



- Medical Table Paper - You know when you go to the doctor and sit on the examining table? There is usually a roll of tissue paper on the table that they tear off when you leave the room. This paper is durable yet pliable to adjust to the curves on your body. It's great for tracing or drawing long continuous pieces. Steve's Sewing in King of Prussia, PA carries it and they just so happen to sell it online! (Pamela from Pamela's Patterns teaches classes there and recommends this paper too.)

2) Marking Pens, Pencils and Chalk - Have an array of different marking tools for both paper and fabric. 

3) Measuring tools - I recommend having small, hand held measuring tools and longer measuring tools for longer lines. The hand held tools are perfect for small measurements . 

4) Cutting tools and surface - Rotary cutters, scissors (paper and fabric). Don't forget to use the appropriate cutting surface such as a self healing mat if using a rotary cutter.

5) Pins

6) Scotch tape 

7) Ideas and imagination! We have created a board on our Pinterest page which features t-shirt hack ideas. Check it out HERE.




I hope this has inspired you to join us in the fun! Next week, Jenny will share a pattern hack on the Concord T-shirt by Cashmerette Patterns. Mark your calendars! 

Every Monday throughout the summer, we will share with you a pattern hack on a t-shirt pattern. I have lined up some of our Fabricistas as well as sewing experts such as Pamela from Pamela's Patterns! (And others, too!) 

Don't forget you can sew along with us at home. Share you t-shirt pattern hacks (new ideas you have and ideas that we have shared with you) on Facebook and Instagram using #FMSummerofTshirts. At the end of the summer, we will compile all the people that used the hashtag and you will be entered into a random drawing for $75 gift certificate to Fabric Mart!

Write your comments, I'd love to hear what you think of this. Do you have a favorite t-shirt pattern that was not mentioned? Share it with us!
See you next week! 
~ Julie

Saturday, June 18, 2016

Made by a Fabricista: Little White Dress

Monday is the official start of summer! It has actually felt like summer here for a few weeks and I'm excited because this is my favorite time of year.

I love this bright graffiti wall!
What do you think of when you think of summer? I envision warm weather, road trips, ice cream and beaches. Fashion wise I think red, white and blue, linen, challis, gingham, floral, nautical, sundresses, maxi skirts, sunnies, floppy hats, espadrilles and sandals.


With all those thoughts I was having a hard time narrowing down what to make this month, but then it hit me...What screams summer more than a flirty, white sundress? Nothing!


Choosing fabric was a no-brainer because linen is basically the official fabric of summer. Besides I'd been trying to make up an excuse think of a reason to grab some of Fabric Mart's designer linen for some time now. While I love Fabric Mart for their very detailed photos of each fabric but this time it was the description just grabbed my attention.
"A designer quality, 100% linen in a light-medium weight. With a plainweave, it has a natural look with thick and thin yarns typically found in linen fabrics. It has a crisp, yet soft hand and with a gentle wash, will get softer over time. It is semi-sheer when held up to the light, but does not require a lining. This is THE linen to have for all your linen garment projects."




















Now onto the pattern. I love dresses so I have more dress patterns than I care to admit (please don't make me count).  Though I feel I can never have enough, often times too much of a good thing makes it difficult for me to select my next project. Several dresses have been on my "must make" list for a over a year but this recent addition won out. A sewsista gifted me with Simplicity 8136, which is actually a sportswear pattern consisting of a peplum top and shorts/capris. The top is what I really love, but already have a few peplum tops so I decided the top would be great a dress with a simple modification!




Initially I wanted to sew up view A, the criss-cross back, but I didn't want to deal with a potential bra strap issue so I went with view B. The top pattern features darts at the bust and the waist resulting in a close fit bodice. Though the description of the linen as "semi-sheer but does not require lining" is accurate, I decided to fully line the bodice for a couple of reasons. One because it was white (in a darker color this would be totally unnecessary) and two because the pattern calls for it. The bodice took a little time as there are 12 darts in total (including the lining). There was also some hand stitching the lining at the shoulders.


For the skirt I added 13" to the peplum front and back piece to achieve a knee length skirt (total 23"), you could certainly add more or less based on your preference. I skipped the lining for the skirt and folded over about 1/2" twice and hemmed. Circle skirts can be tricky to hem. My favorite way to tackle this challenge is to use bias tape for a clean edge. Unfortunately I didn't have any white bias tape in my sewing room and I was to impatient to wait and buy some the next day.







Though I desire for the inside of my garments to be finished they do not have to be perfect. So for the sake of time I usually baste the bottom of a bodice (fabric and lining)and attach it to the skirt as one piece and then serge for a clean finish. For this dress I chose to hand sew the bodice to the waist seam for a very clean finish. This linen is so nice I felt it deserved this treatment. This was my first time inserting a side zipper which I had avoided though I'm not sure why. It was the same process as any other invisible zipper. I did like the fact that the side zipper allowed for a smooth back.







I am in love with this dress and can't wait for someone to throw an all white party so I can wear it! I could have graded out to a size larger at the waist and I still would have preferred a bias tape hem.

Can you tell I love this dress?!
I absolutely love this linen! It is indeed high quality and flows beautifully. So much so that I couldn't help but twirl. The only thing to note is be careful when pinning. If you have wonder clips that would be great, I don't so I just use sharp pins to prevent snagging the natural fibers. The fabric sewed up great. It does fray but not uncontrollably, I simply serged my free edges and had no issues. I see more of this linen in my future, most likely the red and avocado. If you were thinking about this ordering this linen, DO IT! Take a look at all the color options here.

I couldn't stop twirling.
~ Tiffany from Frougie Fashionista