Made By A Fabricista: The Friday Pattern Company Westcliff Dress pattern

 

Have I just sewn my new favorite Maxi dress for the Fall?

Friday Pattern Company patterns are one of my favorite to sew and wear.  I have fun sewing up their patterns and they turn out so beautifully. The Westcliff is a top and dress pattern for knit lovers. I love wearing knit but sewing knit is not my favorite. The pattern features:

• A faux-wrap bodice with full coverage and a neckline designed not to gape!
• Two cup size options (B and D cup) for better bust fit. 
• A flowy A-line skirt, with an optional lower tier to convert it into a maxi.
• The pattern is written for knits with at least ~25% stretch. 

I selected a very soft jersey knit from Fabric Mart that has large scale flowers in brown and pink. The instructions are clear, there are many helpful tips for sewing knit included. The faux-wrap style is flattering and relatively easy to wear, especially in a comfortable stretchy knit.

Overall, for knit garment sewing, this is a solid pattern — fun to make, flattering to wear, and not overly fiddly.

Because the Westcliff is a knit pattern, part of the success lies in the fabric choice and how you handle the knit. Cutting knit is a challenge because it can shift. Taking the time to make sure the fabric is flat and on grain is so important. Using rotary cutter and avoid cutting on the fold is helpful. One common frustration when sewing knits is having the machine pull or “eat” the fabric, causing puckers, skipped stitches, or stretched seams. Practice on scrap fabric to get your tension and stitches  right. Here are some tips when sewing with knits:

Tips to prevent your machine from eating knits

Strategy	Why it helps / how to apply
Use a stretch / ballpoint needle	These are designed to glide between knit loops rather than pierce them, reducing snags and skipped stitches.
Lower presser foot pressure	If your machine allows it, reduce the pressure so the layers feed more evenly.
Use a walking foot / dual feed	This helps feed all layers more uniformly, reducing slipping or skewing.
Use a straight-stitch plate (if available)	Some machines have a plate that prevents fabric from getting pulled into openings or seams.
Use stabilizing aids	Use clear elastic, stay tape, or fusible knit stay tape in areas like shoulder seams, neckline, wrap edges.
Use longer stitches or a narrow zigzag / stretch stitch	A longer (but not too long) stitch helps reduce puckering, and a small zigzag or stretch stitch gives flexibility.
Pin or clip generously, and sew slowly	Taking your time helps the machine feed evenly and gives you a chance to guide the fabric.
Use stabilizers under tricky zones	A layer of tissue paper or tear-away stabilizer under the fabrics can prevent slippage; remove afterward.
Test thoroughly on scraps	Try out stitch, tension, pressure on the same combination of layers before sewing the real seams.
Clean and maintain your machine	Lint or fiber buildup around the feed dogs or throat plate can worsen feeding behavior.

One sewing proverb I find helpful is: “let the machine do the work” — guide the fabric gently, don’t push or pull, and let the feed dogs move the fabric. When sewing the wrap bodice, you can stabilize the neckline so it doesn't stretch out as you stitch.If you widen the tie belt slightly (or add lightweight interfacing), it can better control how the wrap behaves over time (less twisting or flopping). For the skirt tiers, seam allowances can be handled with either serging  and coverstitch or a wide zigzag on a regular machine. Or you can leave the seams unfinished, your preference. I chose to use my sewing machine, a zig zag stitch and left my seams raw. Press gently, don’t “iron”. Too much heat or steam may distort knits; use pressing tools (steam, press cloth) carefully. I chose to iron only the neckline, skirt hem and sleeve hem.

 

The Westcliff Dress is a staple dress in your wardrobe and an enjoyable knit project that balances flattering design with manageable construction. With thoughtful fabric choice and attention to machine settings, the challenges of sewing knits become manageable rather than frustrating. 

I had a few issues getting started because I chose a lightening stitch that was too short and but after I had the right tension, a long, wide zig zag stitch and slowed down my speed, the sewing was really smooth. The tips above will make a huge difference in whether sewing a knit garment feels like a battle or a pleasure. I really love my Westcliff dress and hope to make another soon! On my next version I hope to make the shorter version and may choose to add a gathered skirt. My favorite part of this dress is the wrap style top that fits so nicely. I hope you will make a Westcliffe dress!

Happy Sewing! 

Patricia  |  @Hoppaheedahoe