Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Made By A Fabricista: Valentines Day Dress

HI Fashionistas:

Being the last minute that I am, I am surprised that I already have my valentines day dress done!

Now I'll just patiently wait for my hubby to ask me out. Here is the dress I made:






The dress was a bit of a pattern hack. I started with the bodice of a Butterick pattern. Then made some pattern alterations, made the style lines on the bodice style lines curvier, and raised the waist to a curved empire waist.  The red lines are my pattern alterations after making the 1st muslin.




The skirt pattern was self-drafted and I am in LOVE with the fit of this dress. If you want to look into drafting skirts, here is a class I recommend. This is the same teacher I studied with. If you want to see my review of this class, click HERE.



Initially, I was planning on doing the following pattern hack, but then I found the Butterick pattern for the bodice.






Here is the back view and side view:







The fabric I used is this one. I love the fabric. It's a lightweight twill with a 10% stretch. It nice to work with, presses beautifully.

I really enjoyed working on this project. Tailoring a garment is one of my favorite things to do! Next, I am working on some simple tees for the winter- some basics to add to my wardrobe.

XOXO
-Vatsla at Fashion Behind The Seams


Saturday, January 14, 2017

Made by a Fabricista: Another Winter Coat

I had to make another winter coat and this time in a trend...mustardy-yellow. Can you blame me? This color is all over the place and I love it! Instead of being a year or two late, I decided for once in my life to be (sort of) on time for a fashion trend!




Here is the pattern I choose. It is a uni-sex pattern. I'd previously made it for my son and knew what I needed to do to make it fit me. And, guess what? You can find this pattern on Fabric Mart's site! Here is a link: Colette Albion Coat
If you don't like following links, here is a picture :)
Albion 

I love the fabric I chose for this coat. It has a nice heft to it and is soft and warm!. And, isn't it a great color?


This fabric doesn't ravel at all, so to finish off the seams, I choose to topstitch 1/4" on each side of the seamline. There was only one seam that I was unable to do this and that one you can see in the photo below.



This fabric is a bit heavy, for the some of the details, such as the patch pocket flaps, I cut that as one piece, rather than two, and simply folded it over and stitched. I had a much better result than trying to get a nice neat flap with two layers of fabric and interfacing. Those corners just wouldn't behave as well as I would have liked! But now, they look great!



Next, I interlined the coat by fusing batting to the lining fabric. I love using a floral or unexpected fabric in my coat linings. When you open it or leave it unzipped, others get a view they didn't expect.



I also decided to add a zipper to this coat as it doesn't call for one but thought the addition would give some added benefits of added warmth and overall comfort from the wind chill that is so prevalent in the northern plains of the United States. It gets unbelievably cold here when the wind blows! If you have ever been on recess duty for 20 minutes you will know what I mean. Typically there are no trees or other obstacles to stop or slow down the wind...



No winter coat isn't complete with a bit of fun and I decided the addition of a little faux fur at the collar would add the flair I was hoping for!


My toggles were purchased from JoAnn's along with the faux fur and zip. Everything else I used for this coat was from my stash.


Wow do I love this coat and with winter officially starting not that long ago, I know I will face some cold weather with it during 2017 and years beyond!

Thanks so much for reading!
Sue from Ilove2sew!

Wednesday, January 11, 2017

Made by a Fabricista: Over-sized Full Length Wool Coat


It is no secret... coats, gloves, and the whole concept of laying is just-not-my THING.  Even though, I am originally from NY and now live in MD, somewhere along the way (living in FL) I began to deny winter until it was over.  In many ways, even today, the season I have the least amount of shoes, clothes, and outerwear is Winter.  Who likes winter anyway????

As a means to ramp up group activity and actually make an attempt to own a "functional" piece of outerwear, I began looking for inspiration for wool coats.  I found a great deal of short coats, but came across very few full length coats (light bulb moment).  I wanted something that would be stylish as well as functional for the cold temps.  

The fabric I used for this coat is from Fabric Mart's Melton Wool coating collection (HERE).  The colors I used are no longer available, and I am sure its because the of the awesome 60% off sale that was going on, but there are some great selections that are still left.

In my continued attempt disconnect from the pattern world by improving my draping and pattern making skills, I decided to drape this coat from scratch. 


I began with the front.  Knowing I wanted this coat to be over-sized to accommodate several layers of clothing, I went with a wide sleeve casing.  Because of the size of adjustable dress form, I had to manipulate the placement of the fabric in order to get size desired.  Once I completed the front, I duplicated the sleeve casing on the back and pinned the sides for fitting.  


I didn't cut a large enough piece for the back, so I made notes of how much fabric to add when cutting out the final fabric.  



Once this was completed, I trued up my pattern pieces and cleaned up the lines.  It was then I noticed that I did not have enough fabric to create this coat with the wool facing I wanted.  So I put everything aside and ordered more fabric.  Prior to this development, I had 4 yards of the orange Melton wool.  I decided to order an additional 3 yards of the black Melton wool in order to create a color block.  I decided to go in this direction because well... when have I even stuck to a plan?  

I started off with this....


and ended up with this!


I created notches and duplicated the diagonal separation from the back piece as well.  

Now.... Both front pieces are self lined with contrasting black wool, while the back and sleeves were lined with a double knit that had a lightweight sweater feel to it.  I also faced this lining with the orange wool and added my label :). 




Because I self drafted this coat, I constructed it in the most backwards way possible without ruining the garment as I finagled my way through the entire process.  I marked and adjusted my back pieces to account for a kick pleat and constructed the sleeves last.  








Overall, I am extremely pleased with this coat.  It is super functional and the perfect length for my high heels.  I will definitely be wearing this often (I wore this to work after taking the pics minus the boots).  The only thing I would change is the shoulder width.  I cut it a tad bit too thin, but got away with it because the coat is over-sized.  All I need now is a nice black wool scarf which I will be making from the remnants of this project
.  
Pants: 7 for All Mankind Coated Jeans
Shirt: Generation Love half leather/ half Jersey Shirt
Shoes: YSL boots
Gloves: Isotoner Smart Touch 

Until next time, happy sewing!
Jenese