Skirts Challenge Inspiration: Denim Flounce Skirt...plus a little extra...

Hi-

I hope you are well. This month for the Skirts Challenge (#sewcoolskirts), I wanted to do a ruffle/flounce skirt.

On a whim, I picked up Vogue V1450, because I saw beauty in the skirt design (View B).  You almost miss how great the skirt is, if you focus too much on View A, the sleeveless top, on the pattern cover. I think it is a bit overwhelming paired with the skirt (just my opinion). This skirt turned out to be such a fun skirt!  

To make the skirt, I used this wonderful striped stretch denim from Fabric Mart (click here).  This fabric is a dream to sew and wear. It is a combination of cotton and lycra with 10% stretch.

So let’s get into a few details on this DIY look!

I must say, there is not too much to say about the construction of this skirt.  The pattern is labeled as very easy and I have to tell you, it is extremely easy to make.  I think any beginner would find joy in making this skirt, especially if you take the route I took and not line the skirt.  The pattern is designed for a lined skirt, but I hardly ever see the need to line denim.

It took four pattern pieces to make this skirt. The front and back pieces are cut on the fold; and I cut one front and one back flounce piece.  Since I did not line my skirt, I self-drafted front and back facings.  After stitching the darts on the front and back pieces, I traced around the top edge of the two pieces and down 3-inches on each side to create the shape for the facings. Once I had the shape traced out, I added 5/8 inch seam allowance on each side.

This skirt has a side invisible zipper.  I am not a fan of side zippers and I usually move them to the back; however, I didn't want to fuss with moving it this time.

I focused on trying to keep my stripes matched as much as possible in the front and back, but when it came to the flounce and its curves and angles, I had to let the "stripes" fall where they may.  This gave the skirt more interest.

When hemming a skirt with curves like this, I normally baste around the skirt at the hem line, then fold and press the hem along the stitch.  It saves time and makes things much easier.  I top-stitched my hem with jeans top-stitching thread.

I had more fabric than I expected and since I was enjoying sewing with it so much I made a top with the leftover.  I used New Look 6512, and ahhh, this pattern is on my list of favorites.  Seriously, I could make this top for every day of the week, the pattern is just that lovely.  I have been searching for a pattern like this for awhile.  I love that it does not have the elastic around the front and back, but that it is mostly around the shoulders only.  The weight of this denim is light enough to make this top.  Now I wasn’t 100% sure that I was making the top to go along with the skirt, but I figured why not take pics in both pieces together just to see what it looks like.

Now the placket and buttons in the front are for beauty only, they are not functional.  I used jeans top-stitching thread along side the placket.  I love the color of the buttons with this denim!  I played around with the direction of the stripes to give the top more interest.

I hemmed the sleeves and the top with a narrow hem.  The elastic casing is made by stitching at 1/2-inch from the edge, and then 1-inch from the edge.  Three elastic strips are inserted in the casings on each side.

I serged my insides!

I styled the top with my new favorite pair of RTW white pants, that I also wish I could wear everyday (do you know how hard it is to find a great pair of white pants, lol?)  This hat makes me feel like I am on vacation.

I hope you enjoyed these two DIYs! Until next time take care!

Yours truly, Tee

from Maggie Elaine Blog

Share your me-made skirts thru May 31st and be entered to win a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart! Share on Facebook or Instagram using #sewcoolskirts. 

Skirt Challenge: Selene for Travel!

I wore this outfit on Friday to school, to give the skirt a test run before my trip!

When Fabric Mart announced they were hosting a skirt challenge for May, and asked if I would participate, I jumped in with both feet immediately.  During the school year I prefer to keep my makes to once every two months, but I couldn't say no!  I am heading to California in a week to spend time with some relatives, and I figured making a skirt and top from a double knit printed fabric (they sold out of this pretty feather printed version) would be an excellent choice.  I told Fabric Mart I loved the idea of wearing the two pieces together so they looked like a dress, and I also loved the fact that the skirt could pair well with multiple tops in my closet, and the top would also pair with many bottoms.  This means I can pack less for my journey out west!

The Selene from Colette Patterns was my first choice for its classic shape (a straight skirt that I could modify to fit my smaller waist and larger hips).  The fact that it had pockets not in the side seam were especially appealing.  I chose version C which features a pocket made from a yoke feature near the waistband.  The skirt also has princess seams with a center panel.  This makes fitting very easy, and now that I know this skirt is a bit loose in a double knit, I can definitely use this size for any future makes in a non-stretch woven.

I love the look of version A's welt pockets, but to be honest, this yoke style is a lot easier to construct, so I'll probably stick with C in any future makes.  The C version has a clipped V detail on the pocket, but I didn't want that for this skirt simply because the detail would have been completely lost in this fabric.

I rarely like the way I look in skirts from the back, but this one's very large darts*, combined with my grading the seams from a size 8 at the waist to a 12 at the hips and hem means that it works with my shape.  I definitely want to make this one again since this one works for my lower half so nicely.  I do believe the 8 waist is a touch big, but I won't know for certain until I try the same pattern sizing in a woven without stretch.  I added interfacing to the waistband so the double knit wouldn't stretch, but I do feel like the stretchy fabric might mean there is an ease there that wouldn't be so apparent with a non-stretch fabric.

*One thing I did NOT like about the Colette pattern was the way the sizes were printed on the paper.  It is all one color and with many sizes, I found it very difficult to follow my size line.  I used a size 8 dart, and it had the same printed line as two other lines on the pattern paper, which meant that I initially started tracing the size 20 (I think) line and not the size 8. I then said, "oh, there's my line," and traced the size 2.  Ugh.  Finally I found the 8, thank goodness.  But I really do think different colors might help differentiate the sizes better.  I know it's more expensive to print in color, but if the patterns are that expensive AND with that many sizes, it seems to be the only logical choice.

I didn't add any length, and it seems fine, though I may want to add an inch for something a bit more modest/formal.

The skirt is lined in stretch nylon tricot, but I decided to use the original skirt pattern pieces (with the exception of the side front, I used the lining ones for that).  The lining patterns end something like ten inches ABOVE where the regular pattern pieces do.  Ugh.  I am very sensitive to fabric changes in a garment, and I know I would be really bothered if the lining was that short, and I know I would feel the lining in half the skirt but not the other half.  I did shorten the lining, though, a bit, to account for the hemming of the skirt (I didn't hem the nylon tricot, it doesn't fray, so really not a huge priority of mine).  I decided to use the size 2 length on the lining, whereas I used the size 12 length on the main portion of the skirt.

I'll wear it together in California!

Here is the skirt with the matching top.  As you can see, it does really look like a dress.  With the tee, it takes on a casual look, but with the sleeved top, it seems a bit more formal, which is what I'll need as one of my engagements in California are my cousins' confirmations!

Sad change happened to this top from conception to creation, though looking at it from this photo, I am digging the change, since the contrast of the dark blue looks really nice with the skirt's pattern.  I had originally intended for the top to be completely made from the feather print double knit, and had cut out both pieces from it, but somehow, SOMEWHERE in my blasted house, is the front part of this top.  Gah.  I blame my children, whose adorable little hands probably put it somewhere.  So I had to take the back piece I had cut out and cut out a new back piece from another fabric that matched (this is a gorgeous rayon/nylon/lycra ponte I received from Fabric Mart in a bundle).  Then I had to re-cut the front from the original back piece.  Sigh.

Here is my "pattern" for the top.  LOL.  I recently purchased a very nicely fitting v-neck linen tee from Boden, and it looked like the world's simplest design, so I figured I could do the old "lay the tee in half and trace around it" trick.  It worked, and the top really does have a similar fit and feel to the linen one (though the ponte makes it a bit more structured).

I added a 3/8 inch seam by using my (very handy) seam ruler.  I highly recommend one of these if you ever plan to draft your own patterns, or if you use some of the European magazines (like Ottobre or Burda) where the seam allowances are not included.

Here are some detail shots of the pieces...on the left side, top to bottom, I've shown the neckline detail of the top, the button detail of the back waistband (the Selene calls for a lapped zip and a hook closure--I went invisible zip and a button instead), and the pocket of the Selene.

Left to Right, Top to Bottom: Coat, Top, Shorts, Tee, Dress, Pants, Sweater, and Skirt.

Here is my packing for the trip.  It is central coast California, so I have to add a light jacket and a sweater (cold cold nights!).  I also am including a pair of black pants for travel, a pair of shorts, and a tee.  I will wear the sandals (not photographed) for the more casual outings, but will wear the closed toe shoes (not photographed) for travel and at the Confirmation.

This is how I wore the top with a skirt to church yesterday.  I love both pieces so much.  I am so excited to have two nicely fitted, travel-friendly pieces to bring with me to California next week.

Okay, that's it for a bit.  I hope you all are experimenting with your skirts this month!

Dina, My Superfluities.

Share your me-made skirts thru May 31st and be entered to win a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart! Share on Facebook or Instagram using #sewcoolskirts. 

Skirt Challenge Inspiration: Drawstring Maxi Skirt with Pockets

I love maxi-skirts!  They let you really show off a beautiful fabric.  Although there are lots of patterns available for maxi-skirts, you'll notice that many do not have pockets.  I don't know why that is, as pockets are so essential!  When I got my March issue of Burda Style magazine, I couldn't help but notice this skirt in the plus section:

The line drawing showed that it was a simple design but with a few features that I find desirable: pockets, a combination drawstring and elastic waist, and long side slits.  I find that a combining a drawstring with elastic helps you to cinch the waist to just the right snugness.  And side slits help you to move freely and provide extra ventilation on warm days.  So, even though these are small details, they can really make the difference between whether you end up wearing an item or not!

I made this pattern three times out of different fabrics- one ITY knit, one rayon gauze, and one french terry knit.  My first one was this ITY knit in a tropical leaf pattern that I got in one of the pre-cut fabric selections.  My first piece from this fabric is here.  I think that large prints are great for maxi-skirts.  This skirt version is the dressiest one of the three that I made, and I can definitely wear it to work.  

When making it, I discovered that the slit was really high!  I moved it down about 4", so the slit would only go to my knee level, not thigh level.

My next version was out of this Kaleidoscope Blocks French Terry.
French terry is much thicker and more like a sweatshirt fabric, so I wasn't sure if it would have the appropriate drape for a long skirt like this, but I decided to try it anyway.

I centered the blocks and matched the dark stripes at the sides.  It's really comfortable, and great for a cool summer night, as the french terry is much warmer than the ITY knit.

My last version of this skirt, and probably my favorite of the three is made from a striped rayon crinkled gauze (sorry it is sold out!).

This one was also the most challenging as the crinkled gauze tended to stretch out of shape very easily.  That made matching the stripes at the side seams particularly challenging!

To stabilize the pockets so that they wouldn't stretch and grow,  I stitched 1/4" wide twill tape into the pocket seams by feeding it along the seamline when serging.

So, the pocket ends up looking like this picture below.  Now, even if I put my phone in my pocket, it won't stretch out of shape.

The waistband is a separate piece, which at first I thought was not necessary, but then I realized, that is how to create the opening for the drawstring.  Sew the short ends together, leaving an opening at the front, like this:

Then, after attaching it to the skirt, feed both the elastic and drawstring through this hole, eliminating any need for a buttonhole or eyelet opening.

Do you know what they call the little ends of shoelaces that keep the cord from fraying?  They are called "aglets".  You can purchase these on Ebay or Etsy, but a quick little way to make your own is to just wrap a short piece of scotch tape around the ends. After wrapping it a few times, just cut the homemade aglet to whatever length you would like!

I'm pretty sure that this won't be the last skirt that I make from this pattern- it goes together so quickly, and can be made out of woven or knit fabrics.  It does take quite a bit of fabric though- I would allow 2-1/2 to 3 yards per skirt.

These photos are all taken in my garden- which is my other obsession, especially this time of year!  I love flowers, flower arranging, and just getting some fresh air after a long winter. 

Have a great Spring and enjoy the Skirt Challenge!

Ann 

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Share your me-made skirts thru May 31st and be entered to win a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart! Share on Facebook or Instagram using #sewcoolskirts.