Sunday, May 28, 2017

Skirt Challenge Inspiration: Pieces of the Perfect Skirt!


Welcome to Skirt  month over here at Fabric Mart! Some folks think that I never make mistakes or wrong choices in fabrics for my projects. Well this month was one of those moments where it just didn't work out how I planned. I picked out these two corduroy prints for this challenge. They are kinda retro and funky so I figured a little skirt would be really cute in these prints. [Orange/Brown Print and Purple Print]


As you can see the colors were not matchy-matchy and I didn't know if I was going to mix them or just make two separate skirts. I played around with the fabric and different patterns and finally settled on a pattern and I mixed the prints for this skirt. I love the pattern I chose and this was my second time making the Alberta Skirt . Once I put the different prints together they kinda blended instead of standing apart. I used the orange and brown print for the front and the purple print for the back and the front pockets. The contrast between the two prints was not bold enough for my taste. [I can definitely see a retro jumpsuit with either print]

Now I guess you can tell I was not in love with the skirt but I was going to roll with it. We were all set to snap a few pictures of Mori in the skirt, she put everything on and I was still not excited about this combination. The skirt wasn't doing anything for me at all! The skirt was not what I had imagined in my head, don't get me wrong it's a cute casual skirt but not what I was going for. I like the pattern and fabric separately but not as a unit. Needless to say the photo shoot ended before it began.



Now what? I need to provide some type of inspiration for this challenge. I found some pictures of skirts that in some way, shape or form I pieced together fabrics to create the magic. So today I am sharing Pieces of skirts as my contribution to the skirt challenge. [For this challenge the fabrics used in my skirts below were not from Fabric Mart]


I am going to start with lemons! You may have seen this skirt but I found some long lost photos where I started documenting the step by step process, which I never published. This is a self drafted skirt, I love to color block because it's an easy way to create unexpected drama in your wardrobe. I had this bold lemon print and added an even bolder stripe for the extra drama.


1. Cut your strips of fabric to be sewn together 
[my skirt is 72 inches wide and 24 inches long. I cut three strips. Also cut out a waistband for your skirt]
2. Sew your strips together length wise
3. Square up your edges and cut fabric into 3 sections. 
[Cut your length in half 1 piece will be the front and the remaining piece will be cut in half for your back 2 pieces]
4. Cut out 4 pieces for your pockets
5. Mark 2 inches from the top for pocket placement
6. Pin and sew pocket to the front and back skirt pieces
7. Place back and front pieces together at the sides and sew
8. Add your gathering stitching across the top of the skirt
9. Add your zipper to the back of the skirt. 
[I took my zipper all the way to the top. I do not have to add a button.]
Steps not pictured:
10. Pull your gathering stitches at the top of the skirt and attach your waistband and hem the skirt








The next skirt was a labor of love and you have to love sewing to complete a project like this. I used Vogue 9132. This is a cute retro pattern but it does require patience because the lines on the skirt are the star of the show.

I pulled out all my denim and cut up like ten thousand strips of fabric and began sewing them together. I tried all different placements of the pattern pieces until I found a setup that I liked. I came up with a chevron effect just to make it as difficult as possible for myself. But it all worked out and I even covered a pair of boots to complete the look.



 
 



Next up is the Janelle Skirt  by Style Sew Me Patterns. Mori loves everything about this skirt and the main reason is because it has that leg action going on. You can modify the length of the split for a more modest version of the Janelle. I used scrap pieces of leather and sewed them together and cut out my pattern piece. I also added the top-stitching to the other skirt panel for  just a tad more drama. The uneven stitching was intentional, I was not looking for perfect stitching. I just free-handed a design and sewed my little heart out.


 


 
  

Last but certainly not least is this mini from Straight Stitch Patterns The Wedgwood Skirt. I pieced together strips of fabric as I did with the lemon skirt above to create fabric for this test pattern.  I modified the length and added pipping to the pocket flaps. Mori has gams for days in the skirt.


 





On the blog:

I hope this inspires you to create your own magical fabric!
Michelle @ ThatBlackChic

Share your me-made skirts thru May 31st and be entered to win a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart! Share on Facebook or Instagram using #sewcoolskirts. 

Saturday, May 27, 2017

Made by a Fabricista: Criss Cross Jumpsuit - Vogue 9259



Vogue really hit it out of the park for me with their Summer pattern release. I've already sewn up 1526 for last month's post (missed it? read it here) and this month is 9259!
Image result for v9259
https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9259

I never wore jumpsuits before I started sewing but now I can't get enough of them. Weird how that happens, huh? I think it is because RTW jumpsuits were always ill fitting; the bodice was too short, pants too long, pants too droopy, etc. The benefit of sewing for yourself is you make it specifically for you and your body.


On first sight I loved the criss-cross halter top and the wide leg short/pants. I typically love short shorts and short skirts, so my first intention was to make View A, but I decided that I really loved the wide full legs of View C. Instead of using a border print I went with this gorgeous Blueberry Polyester Crepe. I loved the color and texture (I'm learning I love crepe) and I felt this would have amazing flow and drape (it did not disappoint). There's a still few yards left so don't miss out! Order here. I think this fabric is amazing for blouses, dresses and wide legged pants.


I only have one issue with the pattern so lets start with that. The bodice did not fit well straight out of the envelope for me. The sides gaped on the bodice at the side bodice seam. This is an big issue since the bodice is backless as there is a risk for side boob exposure. I had to take in the side seam of the bodice about 3/4" - 1" from the top and grade down to the waist. In these photos the seams are just basted for the sake of getting this post done on time. I plan to properly fix this later and I may take the seam in a tad more.





If you follow me on Instagram you know another change I made was creating a semi-lining to hold removable cups in place on the bodice straps. I was concerned about coverage in the bodice so I decided cups would help and maybe offer some support. I cut another piece of the bodice pattern but cut it off slightly above the height of the cup (so I omitted the tie portion) and sewed it to the main bodice pieces. I forgot to add them before taking these photos but I did try them and they worked fairly well. I do believe the best thing to do would be to find the right placement and sew the cup to the lining so it stays secure.


The pants on this jumpsuit fit well. I love the pleats and fullness, especially in this flow-y crepe. The length was good but could have been a tad longer. I am 5' 5" and I did a 5/8" hem. I would have loved to have a 1" hem but I was trying to maximize length as I think I will mostly wear heels with this outfit. A 1", or maybe even 1.5", hem would have been fine if I planned to wear flats.


Aside from the bodice issues (which are easy enough to tweak) I really like this jumpsuit, the criss-cross bodice, the halter neckline and the very full pants. In this gorgeous crepe and color it can lend itself to being dressy, but in a patterned challis or denim tencel this jumpsuit could be casual.


See you next month!

Tiffany

Friday, May 26, 2017

Skirt Challenge Inspiration: A Flowy Summer Maxi


Julie from Fabric Mart contacted me late last month and asked if I wanted to participate in Fabric Mart's Skirt Challenge (#sewcoolskirts) for May. Of course I said yes. I mean who doesn't need a new skirt for spring!

Now my skirt isn't made from a current pattern. I have way too many TNT skirt patterns in my pattern collection to reinvent the wheel. However, my skirt is influenced by an ad that was in my email box.

Inspiration Photo from Dressbarn.com


My fabric is a lightweight ponte from Fabric Mart. I purchased it a couple of months ago and while not exactly the same, it is very similar to the fabric in my inspiration picture.

A little more about my skirt ~
I've really fallen in love with the slim fit through the hips yet flared at the hemline maxi skirts. When I saw the ad featuring the black and white maxi skirt, I knew that my TNT 4 gore skirt with an elastic waistline would work to make one of my own. I had to make a few alterations to my pattern piece but that and the ponte fabric got me a new maxi skirt just in time for the hot weather.

Pattern Alterations ~

- I started by making a pattern sandwich to get a maxi length skirt pattern piece. The original skirt pattern piece was placed on my cutting table.
- Then I added the shortened version on top of it.
- Finally some tracing paper.
- I traced the top and sides of the skirt and added 6" to the hemline adding just enough flare to the sides so the skirt hangs properly.


1) Four pieces of the pattern were cut out and sewn together.
2) I inserted 1" non-roll elastic to the waistline casing.
3) After trying the skirt on, it was a tad too long.
4) So I serged an inch off the hemline.
5) A 1/2" hem was turned up, pressed down and then stitched
6) Walah! An easy peasy new maxi skirt!

A few photos of the skirt in action ~





I used a lightweight ponte for this version because I loved the drape and flow of the fabric. However, the skirt will be great in challis, linens, ltwt denims with a little stretch and voiles for summer. BTW, I'm wearing my skirt with a Concord T made with a cotton/lycra knit that I'm almost sure I purchased from Fabric Mart.

It's such a quick sew, perfect for summer. I know I will make a couple more of them because this skirt fits perfectly into my summer wearing ease philosophy.


I hope you'll make a quick 'n easy summer maxi this season too! Thank you Julie for asking me to participate in the Skirt Challenge!


Carolyn
Diary of a Sewing Fanatic  


Thank you to Carolyn for being a guest blogger during the Skirt Challenge! 

Share your me-made skirts thru May 31st and be entered to win a $50 gift certificate to Fabric Mart! Share on Facebook or Instagram using #sewcoolskirts.