Saturday, December 30, 2017

Made by a Fabricisita: Winter (Navy) Blues

I hope everyone has enjoyed this holiday season with family and friends. For those who have suffered a loss, bad times or any other difficulty I hope that you found comfort during what may have been a difficult time. I was fortunate to spend some time off with my immediate family and reach out to those who are further away. Now the countdown is on to the New Year.


I'm so excited to share my latest project with you, because this Clare coat is my very first *REAL* coat. Sure I've made several bomber jackets and a few knit cardigans, but not a wool, fully lined coat like this one. I'm so proud of it, I've been wearing it everywhere.


This pattern is great pattern for a first time coat maker. There are several pattern pieces, a ton of interfacing and dozens of steps, but as expected with indie patterns the instructions and illustrations are very clear and as an added bonus Heather offers a detailed sewalong on the Closet Case blog.


The recommended fabrics include medium to heavyweight coating fabrics, such as melton, felt, tweed or boiled wool so I chose this Navy Wool Melton Coating. Unfortunately this fabric is sold out but there are several wool options in the coating category. After debating the color I settled on this gold crepe backed satin for the lining.


I choose View B mainly because I didn't have the horsehair canvas that View A requires, but I also thought it would be a little more forgiving as far as fit since I didn't plan on making a muslin. Based on the finished measurements I selected a size 16 and it fits well, my only issue is under the arms where I could use a little more ease.


On to the construction, I decided to fully interface all of my outer pieces and figured it would be quickest to block interface my wool. I did this by laying my weft interfacing  fusing side down on the wrong side of my wool and spot fusing every foot or so all over my fabric. Then I cut and marked all nine of the main pattern pieces, which honestly seemed to take forever, but it was worth it in the end. I saved cutting the lining for later (except for the pocket lining which you need for the outer shell construction).


The first steps are simple and typical for any coat (or top really) construction. One new thing for me here was adding twill tape at the underarm seam and collar seam for stability as these are high stress points on a coat. The other was bar tacking at the pocket top and bottom.


Once you assemble all the main outer shell you're more than halfway complete and it begins to look like a coat!


When I was researching the Clare coat pattern I noticed that both Jodi of Sew Fearless and Alison of Curate and Create added piping between their lining and facing and I feel it gives the coat an extra touch that I wanted to incorporate as well. Though in the final product I feel the red added to the gold and the navy looks a bit like a crayon box, the three primary color work well together on the color wheel and they work well here.


After adding the piping to the facing I spent another almost eternity cutting out the lining fabric and proceeded to construct the lining as instructed.


My favorite is this hanging loop because it such a small, but professional detail. I also added my label at this stage to avoid hand sewing later.


Finally it was time to attach the lining to the shell of the coat. This is the only place were I could see someone getting lost if she/he has never bagged a lining before. Attaching the sleeves seems strange the first time you do it (I learned this trick previously when lining my bomber jackets), but it really does work.


I was so excited that I actually wore my coat to work before even adding the snaps because I just couldn't wait. I debated going with a exposed zipper (an option shared on the Closet Case blog) but I'm glad I stuck with the snaps. I used 5 size 10 gold sew on snaps that I spaced about 6" apart.


I am simply ecstatic about my new coat and I'm sorta sad it took this long for me to make one. I'm also sad for probably the first time that we don't get many days here in the southeast that are cold enough to wear this coat. Thankfully, we hardly ever have weather cold enough to require interlining my coat. I'd love to make View A (probably next year) with a bright color wool like yellow or Pantone's new color of the year ultraviolet.


I think I've caught the coat making bug! What's your favorite coat pattern?

See ya next year!

Tiffany
TipStitched

Wednesday, December 27, 2017

Made By A Fabricista: Happy Holidays



Hi All-

Happy Holidays!

Today I would like to share with you the jumpsuit that I made using a lovely paprika cotton lycra stretch woven from Fabric Mart.  I used McCall's M7626 View D to make this garment.  I think it is a lovely edition to my wardrobe and it is something that I can wear year round, by wearing it with various shirts with different sleeve lengths, going sleeveless, or wearing this with no shirt at all as pictured on the cover of the sewing pattern.

Since it is our winter in Vegas, I opted to style this with a quarter length sleeved knit shirt.  I also tried this look on with thinner, non-bulky button down shirts and it still looked great with those too.


I didn't notice until I had already done a lot of work to attach the bodice lining and the straps in the back that View D does not feature the buckled straps.  I would have preferred to add the buckles, but the straps that I cut for View D were too short to add the buckles after the fact.


For the lining I used a neutral tricot that I had in my stash.  I made sure to choose a lining with stretch so that it would stretch with the stretch woven fabric.


I love the pockets on the sides of the pants.



The width of the pants are wide. I slimmed mine down a tad bit.  Since I am 5'1.5", they swallowed my legs a little too much (and I was sort of tripping on the pants) with the width.


If I were to make these again, I would add a little bit more length.  Although I am short, I love to wear tall heels and I like for wide leg or boot cut pants to skim the ground.  Actually, I preferred the length of these pants "pre-hem".  I believe the pattern says to hem these at 1.25 inches; however, I hemmed it at 1 inch and wore "shorter" heels. 


View D is not featured with belt loops, but I thought it would be a great addition so I added them.  I tried on many belts for this jumpsuit , but thought I would go with a festive belt for the holidays.




 

This garment was fairly easy to make and I would consider making this again in the future.  I think the fabric choice is perfect, because the stretch in the fabric provides for a good fit while still allowing me to breathe, move, and sit comfortably. 

That's all I have, but I want to wish you a very Happy and Prosperous New Year!!!  See ya later 2017!  I am looking forward to 2018!!!

Yours truly,
Tee


Saturday, December 23, 2017

Made by a Fabricista: A Love Affair with Leopard Print and Black

Happy Saturday ALL!!

Hope you are all READY for HOLIDAYS! I am super excited as I am on break for 2 weeks and can't wait to finish up a few sewing projects before 2017 is over.  For the holidays this year, I opted and plan to make garments that can be worn year round, creating staple pieces in my closet rather than focusing on seasonal items or prints.  I have always wanted to create a leopard print cardigan or sweater and when I came across this beautiful print on sale, I had to grab it.


I love any animal print which is less of a trend and is more of a classic print.  I have always grabbed anything in cheetah or leopard print that catches my eyes. My favorite sweater in cheetah print has been worn so many times the last 4 years and is now in a dump pile.  When I found this print, I knew it was perfect to replace the sweater that I loved so much.




 I wanted to mix the print with the black ponte knit and add my own twist to it.  I opted to use the print only in the front and on the cuffs.


I wanted to create a  wearable muslin and a simple view from one of McCall Winter Holiday collection pattern M7688 (here) and wore it over my little black dress. I created view A without the pocket as I wanted the remaining black ponte knit to create the dress below.


Can you believe for the last 3 years of sewing, I have never made a black dress?


I have been looking for a thick ponte knit fabric for the last 2 months and came across this great find on sale for 50% with a pre-cut cardigan kit (here).  I was so happy to grab the last kit with almost 3 yards.  Based on the amount left over from my sweater, I knew it was just enough to create a little black dress without sleeves so instead, I used some black polyester sheer lace from my stash to jazz it up. Fabric Mart has a similar lace available in stock. (here)


The pattern that I hacked is Mimi G's - Georgia knit long sleeve turtle neck top pattern (here).  I decided to create a midi dress instead of the top and omitted the ruffles from the sleeves.  

This dress is so perfect for a NEW YEAR'S EVE party!


I am totally in love with my first lace sleeve dress and plan to add my own flare to future sewing projects and take more fashion risk with commercial and self drafted patterns.  I can't wait to cut into some amazing fabric the next 2 weeks while I am off.  I am super excited about 2018 and plan to step out of my comfort zone and sew more often than I did in 2017.

Thanks for stopping!
Happy Holidays and Cheers to the New Year!  

Wednesday, December 20, 2017

Made By A Fabricista: Mommy and me skirts for Christmas!


HI Fashionistas! 

Hope you all are having a wonderful December. Mine is going by way too fast!  I've been sewing up a storm lately. Last weekend, I wrapped up my baby shower dress and this past weekend, I finished these mommy and me skirts from a double-knit fabric:

For my daughter, I made a full circle skirt, and for myself, I made a maternity pencil skirt. I am seven months now!


Hers has a straight waistband and a zip on the back. Both hers and mine are self-drafted. 


I used a black and white double knit that can be seen HERE

Back view of her skirt:



Back and side view of mine:






She has her very own custom clothier, and wardrobe department...


I styled this skirt two ways, 1st with a halter top with a bow, and next with this ruffle tee with 3/4 sleeves. Personally, I felt more "me" in the long sleeves,  since I feel its a more balanced look, and the top is longer. I do love the halter with the bow. It's very chic!


Initially, I had planned on making mommy and me pajamas for Christmas morning.  It is my annual tradition, but the fabric did not have as much of a stretch as needed, so I switched to skirts!


And here is my latest obsession. Owl earrings! I shared with you the last owl earrings I gifted myself HERE. Well here is another :)


That's all the fun I have to share with you! We put up our Christmas decorations yesterday morning and had some friends for a Christmas Party! It was so much fun. By the time you read this post, I will officially be in hibernation mode for the rest of the year!

Have a Merry Christmas! And I will see you next year!

But before I go... some final silliness from my kid

XOXO- Vatsla from Fashion Behind the Seams






Saturday, December 9, 2017

Made by a Fabricista: A Little Black Dress in Velvet & Lace


Happy Holiday Peeps!

Mori needed a Little Black Dress for  Holiday Gala and this is what I came up with. She had one major request for her dress and it was that the dress had to have a deep "V" front. I knew right away that I was going to use the top of Vogue 9253 and the bottom I used Simplicity 1559. I had used both patterns for prior garments so the fit was not going to be an issue.

I picked this awesome scalloped lace and a stretch velvet, sadly both are no longer available but there are other options. I had to add a black mesh under the lace. The dress is fairly simple and you can make this in under 2 hours.









We'll end this post with my pick for best picture of the bunch!

I also want to share that my sewing magazine was released Nov 17th and I sold out of my first issue! 
The second issue is on sale now and I have some great things lined up for this issue including a Project Runway alumni. Stop by an grab a copy! www.sewnmag.com

 I Hope you enjoy your family and friends during this Holiday season.