Saturday, May 26, 2018

Made by a Fabricista: Denim Jumpsuit




I don't recall exactly where, but I came across this romper/jumpsuit line drawing online and was instantly attracted to it. It looked to be a McCalls pattern (can you tell I own too many patterns?), but certainly not one that was released in the last 4 years since I've been sewing. Thanks to the awesome ladies in the McCalls Facebook group (join here) who discovered the drawing belong to McCalls 6362.


When I finally got a look at the pattern envelope I realized that this pattern looked a little dated, which explains why I couldn't find it on McCalls website. I'm not sure when it was released but it is definitely OOP. Thankfully I was able to find it for sale on Etsy and quickly placed my order. 


This pattern is a good example of not judging a book by its cover, had I seen the envelope I certainly would have passed on it. The line drawing of View C looks currently, minus the lower leg cargo pocket. I also like the halter of View D.

At the time I write this there is only one yard left, but I believe this one would work as well.

Before I had the pattern info I was sure this was a knit pattern and I planned to use an ITY from my stash, but when the pattern arrived I noticed it called for woven, so I decided to use this amazing cotton chambray. It was just the right weight (light with out being tissue thin) with a good amount of drape. I still think I'll make it in a knit, maybe view D?



This pattern is a quick sew and I didn't make any adjustments. I wish I had graded the bodice from a medium at the underarm to a large at the waist. I ordered the L-XXL size so I cut a straight L. As always I measured the elastic to my own body during the construction process because the elastic guides are never tight enough for me.



As I was taking my photos for this post the jumpsuit started to look more retro that I initially planned, but that actually works, because I'm attending a 90s theme party for my 20 year high school reunion. After adding a bright bold red belt, red pumps and chunky earrings I think I'll look like the 90s.


I still plan on wearing this throughout the summer, you can never go wrong with a denim jumpsuit!

See you next month,

Tiffany

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Made by a Fabricista: Wide Leg Linen Pants



Summer is on us here in Florida.  Have the warm temperatures come to you yet? With the hot temps all I can think about is summer sewing. And synonymous with summer sewing is linen!

I am so excited to share these new wide leg linen pants with you! I feel like I have been hit or miss on getting pants to fit my body well, but these pants fit exactly the way I had envisioned!



Before I talk about the pattern, let me tell you a bit about the fabric. Fabric Mart has a large selection of linen, and for these pants, I specifically looked at the designer quality linen. This linen is dreamy. It has great drape, it is a great weight for tops or bottoms, and it is comfortable to wear! I snapped a picture of me walking to help you see the beautiful movement this fabric has!

Fabric Mart no longer has the black designer linen in stock, but I love so many of the other colors, especially this Paprika!




Okay, on to the pattern. These are the Lander Pants Pattern by True Bias. The Lander Pants is a high waist pant with an exposed button fly. The Lander Pant Pattern is drafted with a wide 1 inch seam on the outisde seam to help with shaping.



This is my third time sewing the Lander Pants, and I approached them a bit differently this time! I was looking for a wide leg, so I used 1/2 inch seam on the outside seam (instead of the 1 inch), tapered to a 1 inch seam at the waist, and I used the darts in the back to take in the waist a bit more!



These are truly the most comfortable pants I own!




Here's a quick recap of the sewing details:

Pattern: Lander Pant
Fabric: Black Designer Linen
Size: 6
Alterations: Used 1/2 inch seam on the outside seam (instead of 1 inch), adjusted the back darts to bring in the waist a bit, tapered to a 1 inch seam at the waist

Thank you so much Fabric Mart for the beautiful linen!  I cannot wait to sew something new out of this designer linen fabric!

Teresa Dandelion Drift


Saturday, May 19, 2018

Made by a Fabricista: Summer Blues

Here comes SUMMER!!

Happy Saturday! I am so excited about Memorial weekend and a mini getting away for a few days.  It has been raining all week and my plans to go the beach was ruined. I have 13  more work days and I am counting down by the hour.  Being an educator is so rewarding and honestly, one of the perks is I look forward to is my summer break with my children. Over the last few months, I have really spent time understanding my lower body measurements with a focus on the fit of pants, shorts, and culotte just in time for Summer.
Made using Simplicity 8558 (CROP PANTS). Fabric: PRE-CUT DEALS!

The last 3 months I have been working on learning how to make adjustments to pants and shorts patterns based on my body type.
TOP: Ogden Cami, Shorts: Simplicity 8558 (SHORTS)
I have always wanted to make linen shorts that are perfect for these hot summer days that can be dressed up or down.  I had cut these a few months ago and finally took an hour to sew them up. These for sure are beginner friendly and  I honestly love the fit of this pattern and the minor adjustment needed.  After measuring the pattern pieces, the only adjustments needed was to add an inch to the width on the front and back pattern pieces as I only purchased the size (6-14).  I also opted NOT to include the string and to only add elastic in the middle row. When I first started sewing, I would purchase 2 patterns as the range is typically 6-14 and my pants measurement typically fall in the 16 range and the top a size 8 or 10.  After gaining some experience, I have mastered the art of grading patterns and making adjustments.

 To make the shorts, all you will need is 1 yard of linen (royal blue) if you are not adding the pockets.  Fabric Mart has a wide selection of LINEN fabrics here

Added only 1 row of elastic to make it a paper bag waist shorts!

Opted NOT to include pockets!

Top Pattern: Ogden Cami



After making my first pair of high waist pants (here) using McCall M7726, I knew I wanted to try a pair of shorts using denim twill to test a few adjustments and rock it on my trip to Jamaica and during the month of July for Sewcation Miami.


These shorts and the adjustment I made are perfect but I am not sure about the style for my hip to waist proportion.  I also purchased the book Pants Fit for Real People and have bookmarked a few sites that shares adjustments.  Check out the Sewalong website here to learn about adjusting based on your derriere which has great visuals.  For this pair of denim shorts,  the only adjustments I made was to the back pattern piece using the SPREAD method shown here in yellow.


Learning and understanding my body and the patterns that work for me has been my focus this year.  I know for sure that I will be making a few more summer crop pants and shorts but will attempt to draft my own pattern and create a few muslins to work on the fit.


M7726 - VIEW A shorts - VIEW B pants

 I just ordered a few yards of the Ralph Lauren cotton sateen from Julie's pick for the month of May and I am super excited to try a skinny fit tailored pants. Fabric Mart has the denim twill here so grab a few yards for your next summer shorts or pants.



Top stitched to give it a MORE denim look!





Do you have any special sewing projects for your this summer?  I have tons and will definitely make pieces that are versatile and fun. As always, thank you so much for reading and I be sure to check out my blog to see my latest makes!










Wednesday, May 16, 2018

Made By A Fabricista: Birthday Skirt in Red!

HI Fashionistas!

The month of May is a month of celebration for me and my family. We celebrated my birthday and Mothers Day this past weekend, and my husband and I will be celebrating our 9th wedding anniversary this week.

So for the month of May, I sewed up a voluminous pleated circle skirt in a beautiful red shirting fabric. Here it is:



Initially, I had planned on creating a high low dramatic hemline, and that is what I was planning on wearing until mid of last week. But after trying it on, it felt very heavy and was not too flattering on me, so I chopped it off to an even hemline about 19 inches from the bottom of the waistband to get this look.

The skirt is completely self-drafted and I will talk about that more in this post.  Here is the back view:





A bit obsessed with these owl earrings lately..


I drafted the waistband for the skirt 1first. It is basically a rectangle. For the length, I used my waist measurement, plus 1/2 inch ease, plus an extra 1 inch for seam allowance (since I stitch using 1/2 inch seam allowance to attach the zip on the back). For the hight of the waistband, I wanted a finished measurement of 2.5 inches so the pattern height is 6 inches (double of 2.5 plus 1-inch seam allowance total) 




To get this type of volume, I measured from my side seam to side seam on my body (let's call this measurement W) and then drafted a half circle skirt pattern on muslin using a waist measurement of W. I then cut 3 from that pattern and paneled them together. Once that was done, the waist of the 3 panel skirt was larger than my waist circumference. So then I added some pleats to the skirt to make the measurement of the skirt match the measurement of the waistband. Since the waistband was drafted to my waist, all I had to do was freehand some pleats to make the two fit. And Voila! Extra volume!

So you know I had to twirl in this skirt!


This was so fun to wear!


I wore it for my birthday on Saturday:






I also wanted to share a picture of Connor. He is 3 months now. He has started smiling a bit, although he is stingy with his smiles. He is such a serious lil' dude! 



And I also ended up wearing it for Mothers Day. It's a fun skirt to wear!



I hope you are having a lovely may. It is getting toasty here, we have had temps in the 90's this past week. The summer is going to be super hot, and I plan on staying home a lot and hosting a lot of playdates to keep myself and my kiddo busy.

I'll see you soon with my next make.

XOXO-
Vatsla from Fashion Behind The Seams

Saturday, May 12, 2018

Made By A Fabricista: Ice Dying Linen

Spring sewing is happening everywhere and I have finally broke out the linen to make what I think is a fun top.


Have you checked out FM's fantastic linen selection?  It is such nice quality and I have made numerous garments from it.  This time, however, I wanted to start with simple white and see what happened when I used a process of ice dying.



Do you try embellishing fabric?  I like to but hesitate so much.  I've done some ice-dying before and decided that linen is perfect because it is a natural fiber and I just love linen.  



So, I deviated from the instructions, slightly.  You should wet your fabric prior to the process, however since I wanted to use just one color of dye, I thought I would try putting the fabric in dry.  Had the weather been much, much warmer, this might have worked.  


Let's back up a bit.  The directions don't mention this, but honestly if you are relying on the ice melt as a means to dye your fabric, it is best to ice dye when the weather is warm outside.  I was rather ambitious and tried this at the beginning of April on a day when it was about 50 degrees.  Not ideal, but hey, it's been a very long winter in the northern plains of North America and I needed some creative mo-jo.  


Use some quality fiber reactive dyes.  I like this brand: Dharma Trading Co.  I decided early on that I was going for subtle.  I used a turquoise dye and a lot of ice with two laundry baskets in our whopping 50ish degree weather....I mean, the ice will melt in a few hours, right?  


Not really...don't laugh at my positive thinking.  I really hoped it would melt over the course of 6 or so hours in the sun.  


Well, it didn't so I did what any seamstress would do and pulled out a hair dryer, sat on my front steps and melted the ice with some hot air.  And guess what, the hot air worked!  Remember, I was going for subtly with my embellishment.  


Next, after completing the steps to set the dye, I knew I wanted something with statement sleeves.  I did a hack of two patterns from two very different companies.  The sleeves are a Simplicity pattern see it Simplicity 8415 and the body of the garment is a StyleArc pattern StyleArc .  When I finally decided to frankenpattern these two, I walked the sleeves to make sure they'd fit the armsyces of the blouse.  Lol and behold, it was a great fit with zero alterations!  


I so love this linen from FM.  I've sewn so many garments with it.  I always test drive it by washing in a gentle wash cycle with warm water and also in the dryer.  My hubby helps with laundry and does a great job.  I never want to have him feel bad if a garment shrinks so I prewash everything.  This linen for me, has always behaved beautifully and gets better and better with every wash and dry.

You can see below how I decided to finish off the inside sleeves.  I used a flat-felled foot, just for fun and what a nice edge finish I got!


I highly recommend this fabric and I hope you'll use it!  I hope your spring has arrived like ours finally did.  

Thanks for reading!  
Sue from Ilove2sew!