Saturday, February 24, 2018

Made by a Fashionista: Go Bold or Go Home




I love the style of shirtdresses, but I very rarely wear them. For one they are usually made with cotton fabric and I hate to iron (which is one of the reasons I love to sew with knits). Also since I've started sewing they've just seemed like to much work to make...collars, cuffs, buttons and buttonholes. Sigh.

                                Simplicity Pattern 8546 Misses' and Miss Petite Shirt Dresses

But after I saw another sewists version of S8546 I knew I wanted to sew View B for myself for this months blog post! Fabric Mart always has a great selection of shirting, so much so that I ended up grabbing two prints, this black and white vertical stripe and a large scale blue plaid.


I debated the vertical stripes because well it's a bold choice. I knew it would either be fashionably chic piece or a epic fail. I mean b&w vertical stripes scream umpire or worse...Beetle Juice, eck! Good or bad I decided to go for it though I'm still not quite sure if I nailed it or failed it, but I think I can pull it off.


Either way I am pleased with this project, I've built my confidence on sewing collars and cuffs. Even my buttonholes weren't as much of a challenge this time. Admittedly I omitted all the buttons and buttonholes on the front because I mainly plan on wearing this as a duster. That still left 6 buttonholes, two on each cuff and one on each sleeve tab (which I added from View A).



Sadly even if I wanted to wear it as a dress I'd have to lose a few pounds to button it. Somehow I managed to cut a 16 instead of a 18. Though now that I'm looking at the photos I might go ahead and add buttons. What color though? black? white? gold?


See ya next month,

Tiffany
TipStitched

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Made By A Fabricista: A Kimono Duster In Emerald Green

HI Fashionistas!

I am so so excited to share my latest project with you. I made a kimono duster/ topper. Something like this would have typically taken me 4 to 6 hours to make, but I promise I spent more like 20 hours on this one, working at a turtle pace, in the final two weeks of my pregnancy. Matter of fact, I finished the sash on Saturday Feb 10, and ended up going into labor that afternoon.  Had I known that baby Connor for waiting on me to finish sewing, I would have wrapped up this project a lot sooner :)

Well, baby is out and he is one week old today... what a week it has been.. to think a week ago we were in the hospital. Moving on to this gorgeous Kimono... Here it is!





The kimono can be worn with or without a sash. I will probably wear it without a sash. That is more my style, but I wanted to have the sash, so I sewed that up in the solid green color.

I will show you how it looks belted as well.  The kimono is unlined as you can see. Here is the back view:





This is the fabric that I used. The fabric had a solid green panel on of the selvage sides, I used that to create the belt/ sash



I used Vogue pattern number V9253, View B with the following variations:

  1. Eliminated the center back zipper
  2. Left the centre front open
  3. I also had to make my skirt front and back panels slightly less flared as my fabric was not as wide as the pattern suggested.

Here are the pictures of the Kimono belted:







And this is just me being goofy... because life is too short to be serious all the time :)



Here is the back view belted..




Oh! Mom is in town visiting from India.. she gifted me these gorgeous earrings that happen to go so well with the kimono, so I wore these :)





Here are some "behind the seams" info of the garment in the making.


  • I always like to do a practice run of the thread/ tension/needle combo and make some samples before I take the garment to the machines. This eliminates any surprises and lets me test out the fabric.
  • I ended up serging the CB Seam and the side seams first, then stitched them and pressed them open. For the rest of the garment, I stitched the seams together, pressed them to one side, and the serged as one. Typically I like to press seams towards gravity, but in this case, I serged the waist seam before sewing it, and pressed the seams open, mainly to reduce bulk. 


That is all I have. I am so ready to get started on the next sewing project. Not sure exactly what I am making next but I have been thinking about either an off white peplum top, somewhat structured, or a knit hi low maxi dress. I will be looking for some sewing inspiration before I commit to the next project. I hope you all are well.  Once my baby is a bit older, I will sew for him and I am sure he will make his debut here on the Fabricista Blog!


XOXO- Vatsla from Fashion Behind The Seams

Saturday, February 17, 2018

Made by a Fabricista: Mommy and Me - Sleeve Drama


"I always find beauty in things that are odd and imperfect, they are much more interesting." 
Marc Jacobs


HAPPY Saturday! I am in love with most of the McCall's EARLY-SPRING pattern and will be sewing up a storm the next few weeks.  I knew for sure that I wanted to use at least 3 to 4 to create a Spring capsule which include dresses, jumpsuits, and tops with sleeve drama.  When I saw this pattern M7723, I knew it was a MUST have.  It was icing on the cake when they created a mini version of a popular sleeve pattern M7542  now for girls in M7708.


I chose to use seersucker fabric for both as recommended by Jackie the pattern designer at McCall's.  The fabric that I chose for my look is a 100% cotton seersucker with NO stretch while Arielle's fabric has 3% lycra stretch. Fabric Mart has a huge selection and a variety of colors available (HERE).  I quickly ordered my fabric and choose colors that were perfect for Spring.

VIEW A Bodice
VIEW B Sleeves
Added a FLOWER applique to JAZZ up the TOP.


M7223 is an easy sew but patience is required.  The sleeve took almost 2 hours to attach as each sleeve has 4 pieces for View B; top, 2 flounces, and bottom.  It really had me pondering at first with the elastic and the circumference and I had to question myself a few times if I did something wrong.  When inserting the 6 inch elastic around such a huge sleeve circumference, I had to swallow my patience pill, gather and pull.
BEFORE ELASTIC WAS INSERTED
 Unlike my daughter's view, the pleating was a breeze and it literally took 20 minutes to pleat and attach. When they both were finish, I was in awwwww as they both look so perfect next to each other.

I also had a design error with the right which I opted not to even worry about.  I accidentally turned the inside seam on the outside instead of matching on the inside. The issue is that the notches matched perfectly and since I inserted the elastic with the first sleeve before attaching, I did NOT even notice until I was done.  I decided to leave it and do the same with the other sleeve. Sometimes in life, things don't always match up and life isn't perfect so I decided to leave it because I had serged the entire sleeve before seeing the error.  I love the use of bias tape for both the sleeves and hem.  I was a bit frustrated trying to hem the curves and after 30 minutes with just 1 flounce, I gave up and decided to use bias tape.  I really love how it turned out and the hem of both garments has a super clean finish.


My daughter truly loves a GREAT mommy and me sewing project and I am happy that we were able to wear it on Valentine's Day.  Arielle is so excited to learn how to sew as well and has enrolled in Mimi G Sew It Academy Kids.



I will be working on a few Spring mommy and me looks that I will wear during my Spring Break vacation and hope that my son (my photographer) will finally allow me to share him with the world.

I hope you had a wonderful Valentine's day and stay tune for some awesome pieces on the blog for Spring.
ROCKING MY WINNING JEANS!
Thanks for stopping by!
Photos captured by my son Aiden and daughter Arielle.

 Love Overdriveafter30!

Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Made by a Fabricista: Casual Silk Top and Crepe Knit Pants


Happy Valentine's Day!  One of my favorite things about Valentine's Day is seeing pink and red everywhere.  In the middle of the month of February, which can be such a cloudy and dreary month, seeing colorful pinks and reds can really make me smile.  So when I saw this Dragonfruit Pink 100% Silk Blouse Fabric, my mind went straight to Valentine's Day!


I didn't know exactly what I wanted to make with such a luscious fabric, and went back and forth several times on what it would eventually become.  I was sooo tempted to make a dress with it, but I knew that if I made a dress, it would be something that would languish in the closet, worn only once in a blue moon.  I really wanted to make this into something that would be wearable in an everyday casual setting, not hidden away waiting for a special occasion!  So, I decided to make a "casual" silk top.  Is that an oxymoron?  I hope not!  I really want it to be a thing.  I know that I won't be doing the dishes, or digging in the garden in my "casual" silk top, but I do think that I can wear it at home, at work, doing light office work or watching TV!



While I was contemplating what to make, I did the unthinkable- I washed it in the washing machine! I knew that it would change the fabric somehow, but I also knew that no matter how hard I try not to, I always end up spilling something on what I am wearing.  So, into the washing machine it went.  And luckily, it came out beautiful.  It was still vibrant, had a soft sheen, and a slightly more crinkled texture, which I loved.  I can't say that I recommend you do this to all silks, but if you are like me and don't want to dry clean, it's definitely worth a shot to at least wash a small square and see how it goes.  Fabric Mart always has an incredible silk selection to choose from. 


At that point, I found McCalls 7251- a tunic pattern with a shaped neckband that reminded me of a sweetheart neckline- perfect for Valentine's Day!  I could definitely see this style of tunic worn with some casual pants, and it had some interesting pleating details that would show up well in a solid fabric.


I wouldn't say that this is a beginner project- just working with this type of fabric is a challenge- all the way from cutting it out, to hemming it.  But, I just tried to take my time and enjoy the process.
This particular silk is what I would call a featherweight silk- it's like the whipped cream of fabrics, although whipped cream probably weighs more.  It is just light as air, which poses some interesting challenges when sewing with it!  Here are a few of my tips with working with featherweight silk:

1.  Some people swear by cutting only a single layer at a time, but I've found that if I lay tissue paper underneath a double layer of silk, and then use a rotary cutter, that this works most of the time.  I just use tissue paper from the dollar store, and lay it out under the full length of the fabric that I'm cutting.  I make sure that my blade is very sharp.  Any nicks in the blade will cause sections that will pull and not cut.

2.  Block fuse a section of your fabric with a featherweight fusible interfacing.  Then, when cutting out pieces that need interfacing like neckbands and plackets, cut the interfacing and fabric at the same time.  You know how instructions usually have you interface one side of a band or collar, but not the other?  I will fuse both sides, as otherwise, it can be a nightmare to try to sew them together.  As long as you use a featherweight interfacing, it doesn't get too heavy.

3.  Use the smallest needle that you have for your sewing machine.  For mine, that is usually a 60-70.  Otherwise, the needle just overwhelms the fabric.  This small of a needle can be a pain to thread, so wind a couple of bobbins first, so that you don't have to rethread it a second time! 

4.  When hemming, the only way that I've found to work consistently well is to do a baby hem.  This involves stitching a line around the edge, then pressing the line to the inside of the garment.  Trim close to your stitching, and fold again, one more time before stitching the hem in place.  It sounds like a lot of work, but in the end, it's less work than ripping out your first try when you realize that it looks bad!



For something to wear with the tunic, I was lucky enough to snag a couple of yards of this wonderful crepe knit.  It went fast on the FabricMart website, and they don't have any left, unfortunately.  I had tried on a pair of ready- to-wear crepe knit pants that I loved the feel of, and I had been on the hunt for some crepe knit to make my own.  Crepe knit has a heavy drape, and kind of a spongy texture to it.  It's not a thick fabric, but not sheer either.  This print had just a hint of pink in it, which I thought would work with the silk. 


I knew just which pants I wanted to make- Butterick 6389.   They had a loose fit that I thought would work with this fabric, as well as pockets, and a combination interfaced front/ elastic back waistband.

I really love how these pants turned out.  They are super comfy, quick to make, and I think that the print will work with quite a few tops.  I highly recommend this pattern for pants if you like this style.



So, I'll be spending Valentine's day in this outfit- enjoying a nice dinner at home.   But, it won't be the last day to wear it- I will be hopefully enjoying this outfit on many days to come.  Have you ever made a "casual" silk top?  If not, please join me and let's make this a trend!  Have a wonderful Valentine's Day!

Happy Sewing!
Ann

Saturday, February 10, 2018

Made By A Fabricista: Fabric Kits

For this month's post, I decided to show you a wonderful product on Fabric Mart's site. Fabric Kits!  Did you know Fabric Mart has these?  If you've never used a Fabric Kit, it is a great opportunity to try a new pattern company with a fabric that is perfect for that make.


Here is a link so you can browse for yourself!  Fabric-Kits


I chose a kit in my favorite color to wear, black.  My kit is by The Sewing Workshop and I made the Eureka skirt in a ponte knit in black.  


As I mentioned earlier, the pattern and fabric pairing is really nice.  This skirt is perfect in a rather stable ponte knit.  This fabric washes and dries really well and holds its shape when you wear it all day.  

I always forget how difficult it is to photograph black inside.  The details on this skirt are fun.  This is different than a regular straight skirt.  I hope you can see the seaming on this skirt.  There are no side seams and the V in the front forms a bit of a pleat at the center front and back.  It also has an elastic waistline and this time of year, who doesn't love that?  


To go with this skirt, I choose this gray and black striped knit.  This was very nice to work with and even nicer on my skin!  I used a free pattern I found on-line and I quite like it and thought the casual styling was really nice with the skirt, plus it hides the elastic waistband so I am the only one who knows!  


Fabric Mart has a nice selection of notions and one I want to highlight is the SewkeysE tape.  If you've never tried this, do!  It is amazing on knits and I am so sold on it I won't use any other brand.  I used it on the hems of my top and skirt and also to stabilize the neckline of the top.  It works like a dream!  


After fusing the SewkeysE tape, it is simple to just turn the hem up and then stitch.  Since I am not loving my coverstitch, I use a stretch stitch on my regular Bernina sewing machine and it worked beautifully.  


I hope if you're not too sure about sewing with knit fabric you'll give a Fabric kit a try.  I also hope you'll try the SewkeysE tape!  It applies so easily and makes a nice clean edge if you like to use it as a guide for pressing a perfect hem length.  See below for that!  


Thanks for reading!
Sue from Ilove2sew!

Wednesday, February 7, 2018

Made By A Fabricista: Trail Blazing with Simplicity 1421


Hey Peeps! I'm back with another Simplicity 1421 Blazer! I love this pattern and you better believe if I have to make a blazer this would be my first choice and if I have to sew a skirt my go-to pattern is Skirt Simplicity 1559.  I put this  bold graphic print with stripes because you know I like to mix it up!  

I loved this blazer fabric so much that I purchased three different colors. Every time Fabric Mart posted it online, I grabbed it up quick. The first print I used to make the maxi wrap skirt below. I haven't used the third version of this print yet.

 

 
This print is no longer available but no worries, there are always other options. That's the one thing that I love about Fabric Mart, they are always getting in new merchandise and I can usually count on them getting in big bold prints.They do have  two prints in stock that caught my eye and would make awesome blazers!

      






 

 Here are some  of my other Simplicity 1421 Blazers


(The middle fabric was that awesome gold painted denim from Fabric Mart)
Well until next time Peeps!
Michelle @ www.thatblackchic.com