I may or may not have had several meltdowns during the making of this Closet Core Jenna Shirt…
But let’s back up first. During the month of May, I promised to wear handmade garments every single day for the popular sewing challenge “Me Made May.” I really enjoyed thoughtfully putting together my outfits each day. While I was doing this, I was taking notes of the gaps in my wardrobe. Particularly, I don’t have many transitional shirts that could work for on-camera work attire and be comfortable for the weekend. When I saw this delicious cotton lawn on the Fabric Mart website, I knew that I wanted to make a button up shirt that would be both work appropriate and a nice overshirt for summer evenings over my tanks and tees.
I have made a few button up shirts before using a vintage Stretch & Sew pattern but I decided to try my hand at the Closet Core Jenna Shirt (up to a 60” chest) which has had rave reviews on social media and pattern sites for being a great pattern with excellent instructions for the collar and sleeve plackets, the two parts of the previous pattern that had tripped me up.
I sewed up view A, labeled by the designer as the “perfect everyday button-up shirt, ending below the seat with a deeply curved hem.” I made a size Medium which corresponded to my waist and hip measurements but was one size larger than my chest measurements. I removed three inches from the length of the shirt and two inches from the length of the sleeves (I am 5’ 3” for reference).
I promised myself to go slowly, follow the instructions with care, and learn some new skills along the way. While I was aiming to make this a true slow-sewing experience, I will admit that I was not precious about pattern matching when I cut out the fabric. For the most part, my pattern pieces looked intentional as I was sewing but much of this due to pure luck.
The early stages of the sewing process were fun. I like sewing patch pockets and using the burrito method for shirt yokes. I did find the collar instructions to be pretty good, although I reviewed a YouTube tutorial just to make sure I was matching the right parts of the collar correctly (shoutout to online resources!).
I found the sleeve/sleeve placket instructions to be good enough but began to struggle with the hem. For a deep curved hem, you need to be precise about ironing your hem properly. I thought it would be a good idea to use bias binding around the hem so I sewed it on but didn’t like how it laid (not flat) against the side seams of the shirt. I ripped out the bias binding and proceeded to follow the instructions for the curved hem and bar tack the edges at the side seams. It’s not as clean as I would have liked and I thought the instructions were lacking on this particular section. However, the curved hem looks perfectly fine now and I’m happy with how it turned out.
The next mistake I made–partly due to instructions although mainly due to user error–was putting on the sleeve cuffs. The instructions have you pleat the sleeves and then sew down the cuffs but my notches and circle were not matching up so I ripped up the pleats and just let the sleeves be oversized. This is not a problem for me since my ideal shirt is rolled up at the sleeves and cuffed around my elbows.
Finally, it was time for the buttons/buttonholes. While I know there is a lot of debate in the sewing community about which is more challenging to sew, zippers or buttons, I personally enjoy sewing buttons. I have a basic Brother sewing machine but it manages to sew up buttonholes just fine. I always do 2-3 practice buttonholes first before diving in.
While my practice buttonholes came out fine, they were looking a little wonky. I opened up my machine and did a quick cleaning to hopefully eliminate any further issues and got to measuring and sewing my buttonholes. Almost immediately, I began having issues. I sewed, unpicked, and re-sewed these buttonholes MANY times. By the last buttonhole, I was so fed up with my machine that I was creating my own buttonhole stitches using varying lengths of zigzag stitches. I was so disheartened by the buttonhole experience that I decided to forgo buttons on the sleeve plackets and the collar because I don’t use them anyways and I’m hoping to get my machine serviced to see what the problem is before diving back into sewing buttonholes for awhile.
Exhausted by this project, I finally put my shirt on and was delighted with the final result. I absolutely love this checked white and blue pattern and the cotton lawn is perfectly lightweight for summer but great for a casual work outfit. I’m so glad that while I didn’t enjoy the process/journey of sewing this shirt, the end result is exactly what I was hoping for.
Do you ever have projects that make you want to throw up your hands and say, “ I’m done!”? While I had plans to make a few more button up shirts this summer, I think I’ll take a break and sew up some swishy skirts and dresses before tackling another shirt again. And I’ll enjoy this one to the fullest while I do so!
Happy sewing!
MARIA | @whelanmaria
Oh, yes, I've had projects where I was so glad to be done with them! However, like you, they generally turned out more than ok; it was just the process wasn't what I hoped it would be! It's wonderful we can get help right away online when we hit a wall. Curved hems are tricky and there are multiple thoughts on dealing with them, too, online. Congratulations on making a shirt that looks great and does what you want it to as well! Now, time for an easy win to balance the difficulty out!
ReplyDeleteAgree with everything you wrote. The process does not match the expectation for the process, and that creates a bit of discomfort with the project. Then we discover the project itself was fine. We just need to calibrate expectations as we proceed!
DeleteIt doesn’t look like you had problems with the shirt! The fabric looks like a very nice weight. I bought the pattern and the shirt-making class on Closet Core but have yet to make one. You may have given me the push I need.
ReplyDeleteYour blue button up looks wonderful and will be a great layering piece as well. I share the button hole frustration. My machine (Brother) will make the nicest 'practice' button holes but come to show time and the challenges start. I am still trying to figure out how to keep the large specialty foot level to insure even feed. I am currently on my 4th toile for the CC Pietra Pants and you have encouraged me to stick with it.
ReplyDeleteKudos to you for taking the time to unpick button holes! I have done it a lot more than once and it is challenging. Your shirt looks great in the end.
ReplyDeleteWhy oh why are button holes so challenging?! I can make perfect trial button holes but have to redo them multiple times on my garment. I wish sewing machine companies would develop a more reliable buttonhole choice. Gorgeous Fabrics has an industrial button hole machine/service but I want to make my own
ReplyDeleteButtonholes are way too unpredictable. I have made practice ones, adjusting tension, width and density using various interfacing and machine embroidery toppers for the perfect buttonhole only to have to remove and restitch buttonholes on my garment.
ReplyDeleteYour shirt turned out great. Glad you are taking the win! Yes, great fabric, so comforting and cozy, like the fabric version of comfort food.
ReplyDelete