Skip to main content

Made By A Fabricista: Three Methods to Explore Colorblocking

Hey sewing friends! As I pondered what sort of plan to tackle for my next wintry project, a new and glorious array of rainbow Polartec fabrics filled the Fabric Mart site. I’ve enjoyed sewing with this brand’s fabrics for many years now, and I’m all too happy to add some more to my wardrobe.  I picked two of my favorite types, the Power Air Grid Double Knit and the Power Grid Fleece.  Choosing a few colors in matching weights to combine them into something totally me sounded perfect. Look at this stunning heap! 

When I’m sewing two different fabrics together, I prefer to use the same weight and type so that they behave similarly and hang well together. Any extra piecing like this also creates topstitching opportunities galore! (You already know I’m all about that available thread matching.) In this case, I opted for three colors in each of the two fabric varieties I mentioned above for the best combining results. 

I figured I’d dive in with a brief overview of how you can start using colorblocking in your own wardrobe, from simplest to most involved. 

1. Simply choose your own colors colorblocking! 

I began with a Grainline Studio Linden Sweatshirt. This is an excellent easy-fitting classic pattern I’ve made so many times I could never count them. 



The Linden is a raglan style, so this one is terrifically easy to colorblock with just the existing seamlines. The classic raglan look is for the neckband to match the sleeves, and a second color covers the bodice. I took it a touch further with a third pop of color on the cuffs. You do you. 

This is a size 2. I shortened the sleeves by 3” so I added 6” height to my cuff pieces (as they are folded in half) for a little more length and color. 

On this sweatshirt, I used the wrong side as the outside because that cube pattern is pretty enticing. It’s also fantastically easy to cut all the rectangle bits (cuffs, neckband, hem band) right along the fabric’s textured squares for real perfection on seam allowances. You can see on the cuff piece close-up how excellently that seam lines up. I just counted all the squares and made sure that they were an even number of squares so they’d neatly fold in half. Highly satisfying. 


2. Use a pattern specifically designed for colorblocking!  

There are loads of patterns with ingenious designs for colorblocking already in existence so that the hard part is already managed for you. The Sinclair Patterns Calypso Colorblocked Top is one such pattern, and features lots of options from tee to sweatshirt, plus there are two similar colorblocking choices included. The one I sewed has the most front pieces, and I’m going to go ahead and say it, a little bit of a Star Trek vibe.


I sewed the long sleeved crew version in a size 2 bust and waist blended to 4 hips. For this top I used the lighter weight Power Grid Fleece. It’s a great weight for laying or being an absolute standout on its own. Here’s where the thread-matched topstitching really shines! 


3. Create your own design colorblocking! 

This is the most labor-intensive option, but it doesn’t have to be too complicated. For my third example, I went with a Love Notions Sloane Sweater. I sewed a size xs in View B. It’s a boxy and simple sweatshirt-style top perfect for chopping up into your own design. 


I traced the front bodice onto a large piece of paper and I first raised the neckline for a little extra coverage in the cold, just a personal preference here. Then I created my downward V design with a ruler, making sure the point hit at the center fold for symmetry. Next I cut apart the three front bodice pieces and labeled them from top to bottom. 


You could be very detail-oriented and add seam allowance back to each new seam of your newly-cut design, or be me and take the shortcut of writing a note to “add SA” along with an arrow on each piece, and then cheat with using a quilting ruler. This works best for straight lines; for curvy ones, you’re better off carefully adding the seam allowance or eyeballing as you cut your fabric if you’re more experienced. 

Incidentally, turn down the podcast or you might unwittingly cut a bonus hem band in the wrong color. Learn from my mistakes! (I am delighted to inform you said error was easily recycled into the Linden Sweatshirt above.) 

I hope this gives you a little insight into how to incorporate multiple colors (or prints!) into a new design that is totally unique. There’s nothing like sewing a garment that is one of a kind. 




Happy sewing!

KATIE  @kak513

Comments

  1. These are wonderful. It gives me inspiration and guidance!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for all the tips. I thing #2 is my favorite, but all 3 are just lovely. I also like the muted and calm colors you chose.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I thought those were such a pretty combo.

      Delete
  3. These are way better than I expected when I think of colorblocking. Lovely work!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I love your sweatshirt trio! And I did not realize that the "wrong side" is the textured side! I swore off polartec grid because my top is not warm and cozy, but it's wrong side out. I will revisit this fabric now. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Just Wear It Out!

Originally I wasn’t happy with my make this time around. I put it on fresh off the sewing machine and didn’t love how it fit. My elastic was slightly too narrow for what the pattern called for. I did end up putting a stitch to close up the v-neck on the top. I thought my sewing on the waistband looked sloppy and I looked kind of frumpy in the outfit. I was going to put the project down to fix later but decided to wear it out for some feedback from our web manager and one of the describers.  I ended up pleasantly surprised! The fabric is super comfortable and I felt really good wearing it. All the things I didn’t like kind of melted away wearing it out. The flaws were so small that only I noticed them. I think it’s important to remember that while striving for perfect seams and flawless construction is good, a handmade garment doesn’t have to be perfect to be wearable. This isn’t the first time I’ve softened on a garment after wearing, and it certainly won’t be the last! The 100% c...

Made By A Fabricista: The Sheer Volume Of It All!

This garment was inspired by a dress I saw in an ad, and when I went to purchase it (which I rarely do)…I realized that the dress didn’t come in my size. Ticked off and with $300 back in my pocket, I decided to draft it myself. The description listed the fabrication as a silk cotton voile, so I used that as a starting point to recreate the simple yet elegant silhouette.  My drafting experience is limited; I’ve only ever made garments that are pleated rectangles that fit into an elasticated waist. No darts, no complicated calculations, and definitely no sleeves. But I’d have that dress if it’s the last thing I do! I made a drawing, created a Pinterest board to document my inspiration, and narrowed down the features I really wanted to have: billowy bubble-hemmed bishop sleeves (say it three times fast!), a fitted and lined bodice, and a gathered tiered skirt. Finally, it was time to shop for fabric. I knew I wanted a silk blend of some kind, without breaking the bank. For weeks, I ke...

Made By A Fabricista: In Love with Linen

Linen is the best fabric to sew and wear. I selected a beautiful 100% linen from Fabric Mart that is a steel blue and cream floral linen to sew up a By Hand London Hannah Wrap Dress pattern. The flowers look like Dahlias. I originally sewed a Toile from a black and white cotton bedsheet, wore the dress a lot but never made it again. I gave the Toile away to a friend who always commented on how much she loved the dress. When I saw this fabric, I knew I wanted to make the Hannah again. Linen is so easy to sew the entire experience reminded me why linen remains one of my favorite fabrics to sew. I look for a light to medium weight  European linen for a dress. I like a rayon or cotton blend with linen because it seems to have more drape and be more soft. Linen gets softer with washing and wearing it. This particular linen feels crisp and after ironing and washing, softens up. I like how Fabric Mart describes the fabrics as top, dress, blouse, shirt weight under “Use” and will describe...