Skip to main content

Made By A Fabricista: Keeping Cool in a Charlie Caftan

Intense summer weather is very much here in the northern hemisphere, and I thought it would be so lovely to sew and wear a stylish and classic pattern that’s been floating around for several years, not to mention it’s very high-temperature appropriate. Nothing like a light and carefree dress!


The Closet Core Charlie Caftan is a pattern with a few differing views for dress length and pleats versus gathers, and the big design element is the front waist panel. Naturally, I chose the maxi version for all that sweeping drama. There are waist ties that attach to the front panel, and two options of sleeve depth. 



I opted for the higher sleeve opening which gives a little more coverage. View C also includes side splits at the hem for ease of walking in the long skirt. 


Big, deep pockets and a fairly wide and deep V-neck finish the details. 


Like many sewists in the loads of reviews I read, the panel can be challenging; it’s basically a welt pocket which can be tedious and finicky, particularly in lightweight woven like this dress calls for! I found a fantastic workaround that a few people mentioned, and it’s perhaps best illustrated on the Coco’s Loft blog, which I recommend you take a peek at if you want to hack like I did. Basically you cut all the same pattern pieces, but after gathering the bottom of the front skirt to match the front bodice, you stabilize your gathers with a strip of interfacing, and then sandwich that area between the hidden back panel piece and the front panel piece, and simple topstitch the whole thing! So, so much easier, and the end result looks the same. 

I chose to sew this Yale Blue Cotton Leaf Print Voile. This voile is a spectacularly lovely quality. The hand is very smooth and silky, and there is a radical amount of drape for cotton. I can’t comment enough over how SOFT this fabric is. The motif of leafy fronds (or feathers? I can’t decide) goes right along with a breezy caftan, don’t you think? 


Something I’ve been doing for several years is using a lightweight knit interfacing to stabilize all my lightweight woven fabric versus using a woven interfacing, which are somehow never as light and always too stiff. The knit really permits the original drape and movement to shine through as intended, and I suggest you give it a try! For this dress, I grabbed some of the White Poly Fusible Knit Interfacing, and it was perfect. 

The cotton gathers so well! I love those teeny even ruffles. And, of course, cotton voile presses so fantastically. The Charlie is lightweight and fluttery, utterly comfortable, and looks so fresh and airy, even in the heat. 

Summer can get a person all wilty, so I hope you’re finding motivation to sew something comfortable that keeps you cool and stylish!

Happy sewing!


KATIE  @kak513


Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following categories: COTTON & VOILE.

Comments

  1. Your dress is beautiful and definitely right for hot weather as it is so cool-looking and fluid, like cool water. Thank you for the interfacing tip - I'm going to try it out right away on a rayon-linen woven top!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Great photos and that dress just looks light and cool, cool, cool. I have some voile in my Fabric Mart cart for another pattern but think I'll make this one instead. Caftan's can look nightgowns-ish but the details in this pattern help it avoid that. I appreciate the work around tip and suggestion to visit Coco's Loft blog for construction tips. And great tip about the interfacing too!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Did someone say FREE??? All about Free Sewing Patterns

Hi sewing friends! I am SEW excited to share this blog post with you today! This is my fifth post with Fabric Mart since I did a guest post late last year and then joined the blogging team in 2024 but I would say this is the post that 1) I worked the hardest to create, and 2) the one that has me the most excited! Today I am going to talk about FREE sewing patterns, showcase a few free patterns I’ve sewn, and then share some very exciting news at the end of this post about an upcoming! First, let’s talk about free patterns – where they come from, why they exist, and how you can find them. But first, here’s a recent free pattern I sewed. This is the Finn Crop Tee from Petite Stitchery . I used an ITY (Interlock Twist Yarn) for this one and I was able to squeeze it out a yard of a fabric. ITY is one of my favorite fabrics to dress up a t-shirt and it wears well across all seasons. And Fabric Mart gets the most AMAZING designer deadstock designs you will ever see! Petite Stitchery offers

Made By A Fabricista: Well Suited for Fall

Fall is my favorite time of the year! The weather is cooling down and I'm always excited to transition into the cooler weather. I get to create with some of my favorite fabrics and I'm always inspired by all the cool fashion trends for the season. So for this month's fabricista feature I snagged some cool medium-weight twill fabric in a beautiful warm cinnamon color.   This fabric has a medium bottom weight feel to it, great for pants, outerwear, jackets, boiler suits and more. I used a needle suited for medium weighted woven fabrics and my serger for finishing raw edges. The color of this fabric is so warm and inviting. I think it is the perfect color for Fall. I couldn’t wait to create a fall ensemble with this fabric. I chose Simplicity Pattern S9893 because I’ve been dying to create this pattern since it launched. It is a cool cape with cargo pockets, storm flaps, hidden buttons at the shoulder, a collar with button tabs and even more button tabs at the underarm. This c

Made By A Fabricista: From Fabric to Finish Line: Creating My Running Gear

In 2021, I ran my first 5k; I was instantly hooked. I loved the instant sense of accomplishment of crossing the finish line & completing something, but all in all at the time I was absolutely no good at running. Now in 2024, I am an avid runner. I absolutely love running & I still love completing races. It had never crossed my mind to sew any running clothes until lately, but I’m sure glad I did.  On Fabric Mart they had the most amazing windbreaker like animal fabric & I knew it would be a perfect match. For the jacket I decided to block it so that it would give it a bit of extra definition. The actual fabric was really easy to sew with & to cut, however, it was a bit hard to pin & left needle marks within the fabric so I suggest using clips instead. I absolutely loved how it turned out. The pattern that I used for the jacket is a free sewing pattern from Mood Fabrics called the Cory Jacket. It is a fairly simple sew & can be made in a day.  For the shorts, I u