Skip to main content

Made By A Fabricista: Keeping Cool in a Charlie Caftan

Intense summer weather is very much here in the northern hemisphere, and I thought it would be so lovely to sew and wear a stylish and classic pattern that’s been floating around for several years, not to mention it’s very high-temperature appropriate. Nothing like a light and carefree dress!


The Closet Core Charlie Caftan is a pattern with a few differing views for dress length and pleats versus gathers, and the big design element is the front waist panel. Naturally, I chose the maxi version for all that sweeping drama. There are waist ties that attach to the front panel, and two options of sleeve depth. 



I opted for the higher sleeve opening which gives a little more coverage. View C also includes side splits at the hem for ease of walking in the long skirt. 


Big, deep pockets and a fairly wide and deep V-neck finish the details. 


Like many sewists in the loads of reviews I read, the panel can be challenging; it’s basically a welt pocket which can be tedious and finicky, particularly in lightweight woven like this dress calls for! I found a fantastic workaround that a few people mentioned, and it’s perhaps best illustrated on the Coco’s Loft blog, which I recommend you take a peek at if you want to hack like I did. Basically you cut all the same pattern pieces, but after gathering the bottom of the front skirt to match the front bodice, you stabilize your gathers with a strip of interfacing, and then sandwich that area between the hidden back panel piece and the front panel piece, and simple topstitch the whole thing! So, so much easier, and the end result looks the same. 

I chose to sew this Yale Blue Cotton Leaf Print Voile. This voile is a spectacularly lovely quality. The hand is very smooth and silky, and there is a radical amount of drape for cotton. I can’t comment enough over how SOFT this fabric is. The motif of leafy fronds (or feathers? I can’t decide) goes right along with a breezy caftan, don’t you think? 


Something I’ve been doing for several years is using a lightweight knit interfacing to stabilize all my lightweight woven fabric versus using a woven interfacing, which are somehow never as light and always too stiff. The knit really permits the original drape and movement to shine through as intended, and I suggest you give it a try! For this dress, I grabbed some of the White Poly Fusible Knit Interfacing, and it was perfect. 

The cotton gathers so well! I love those teeny even ruffles. And, of course, cotton voile presses so fantastically. The Charlie is lightweight and fluttery, utterly comfortable, and looks so fresh and airy, even in the heat. 

Summer can get a person all wilty, so I hope you’re finding motivation to sew something comfortable that keeps you cool and stylish!

Happy sewing!


KATIE  @kak513


Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following categories: COTTON & VOILE.

Comments

  1. Your dress is beautiful and definitely right for hot weather as it is so cool-looking and fluid, like cool water. Thank you for the interfacing tip - I'm going to try it out right away on a rayon-linen woven top!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Great photos and that dress just looks light and cool, cool, cool. I have some voile in my Fabric Mart cart for another pattern but think I'll make this one instead. Caftan's can look nightgowns-ish but the details in this pattern help it avoid that. I appreciate the work around tip and suggestion to visit Coco's Loft blog for construction tips. And great tip about the interfacing too!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Feeling Festive in Red

Happy Holidays! I’m so excited to bring you this all red holiday look that would be a hit at any holiday gathering this season. Whether you’re headed to your company holiday party or just going to sit in your living room, you’ll fabulous doing so. For this month’s post I knew exactly what I wanted to make. I have been a Sew It Academy student since Mimi G opened it back in 2016.  Sew It Academy is her online sewing academy that shows you what to do once you open your sewing machine and different lessons come out every month showing you different techniques and how to sew different things. Sew It Academy now offers PDF patterns and sewalongs that come with them. I made the Boxy Pullover Top and the Bubble & Wide Hem Skirt which are both Sew It Academy patterns. The Boxy Pullover Top is the first garment class offered in Sew It Academy, so it’s super easy to make.  I’ve seen several YouTube videos for the same top and they are all pretty much contructed the same way.  I...

Made By A Fabricista: Everything Old is New Again: A Linen Skirt Using an Old(er) Pattern

Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Sharon from Sharon Sews with my last post for 2024!  This time I used one of my favorite fabrics, linen. Fabric Mart usually has an excellent selection of linens .  I should know as I’ve ordered my fair share over the years. This time I choose a medium-weight 100% linen with a black and white abstract print.  When I ordered the fabric, my plan was to use an old Issey Miyake pattern and sew myself an oversized linen coat.  But when the fabric arrived it told me it would be happier as a skirt.  Your fabric also talks to you, right?   I’ve been drawn to the look of satin bias skirts paired with oversized sweaters but knew that skirt style doesn’t work on my body shape.  Plus, once the holidays are over a satin skirt would just sit in my closet.  But a linen skirt, in a neutral black and white print, could be worn during the winter months with boots and a sweater and easily transition to warm weather with a tee and sand...

Made By A Fabricista: Cozy Sewing Season

The cozy sewing season seems like it came early this year! Temperatures in Pennsylvania have been in the freezing range for weeks, so it is time to break out the flannel, sweater knits, sherpa, wool, and other warm fabrics. Fabric Mart's website is stocked with gorgeous cozy fabric perfect for sewists living in cold climates. While searching for fabric for my first cozy sew of the season, a Cranberry Plaid 100% Cotton Flannel fabric caught my eye. I loved the colors and the plaid pattern. I ordered 3.5 yards to make a button-up flannel shirt for myself, and a little extra fabric to make a button-up shirt for my son. I also ordered two packs of 10 Soft Pearl Plastic Shirt Buttons and "My Mama Made It" sewing labels from Kylie and the Machine. I envisioned one of these labels being added to the side seam of my son's shirt for a bespoke detail. Once my order arrived, I washed my fabric and reached for my Grainline Studio Archer Button-Up paper pattern. I used this pat...