Skip to main content

Made By A Fabricista: Keeping Cool in a Charlie Caftan

Intense summer weather is very much here in the northern hemisphere, and I thought it would be so lovely to sew and wear a stylish and classic pattern that’s been floating around for several years, not to mention it’s very high-temperature appropriate. Nothing like a light and carefree dress!


The Closet Core Charlie Caftan is a pattern with a few differing views for dress length and pleats versus gathers, and the big design element is the front waist panel. Naturally, I chose the maxi version for all that sweeping drama. There are waist ties that attach to the front panel, and two options of sleeve depth. 



I opted for the higher sleeve opening which gives a little more coverage. View C also includes side splits at the hem for ease of walking in the long skirt. 


Big, deep pockets and a fairly wide and deep V-neck finish the details. 


Like many sewists in the loads of reviews I read, the panel can be challenging; it’s basically a welt pocket which can be tedious and finicky, particularly in lightweight woven like this dress calls for! I found a fantastic workaround that a few people mentioned, and it’s perhaps best illustrated on the Coco’s Loft blog, which I recommend you take a peek at if you want to hack like I did. Basically you cut all the same pattern pieces, but after gathering the bottom of the front skirt to match the front bodice, you stabilize your gathers with a strip of interfacing, and then sandwich that area between the hidden back panel piece and the front panel piece, and simple topstitch the whole thing! So, so much easier, and the end result looks the same. 

I chose to sew this Yale Blue Cotton Leaf Print Voile. This voile is a spectacularly lovely quality. The hand is very smooth and silky, and there is a radical amount of drape for cotton. I can’t comment enough over how SOFT this fabric is. The motif of leafy fronds (or feathers? I can’t decide) goes right along with a breezy caftan, don’t you think? 


Something I’ve been doing for several years is using a lightweight knit interfacing to stabilize all my lightweight woven fabric versus using a woven interfacing, which are somehow never as light and always too stiff. The knit really permits the original drape and movement to shine through as intended, and I suggest you give it a try! For this dress, I grabbed some of the White Poly Fusible Knit Interfacing, and it was perfect. 

The cotton gathers so well! I love those teeny even ruffles. And, of course, cotton voile presses so fantastically. The Charlie is lightweight and fluttery, utterly comfortable, and looks so fresh and airy, even in the heat. 

Summer can get a person all wilty, so I hope you’re finding motivation to sew something comfortable that keeps you cool and stylish!

Happy sewing!


KATIE  @kak513


Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following categories: COTTON & VOILE.

Comments

  1. Your dress is beautiful and definitely right for hot weather as it is so cool-looking and fluid, like cool water. Thank you for the interfacing tip - I'm going to try it out right away on a rayon-linen woven top!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Great photos and that dress just looks light and cool, cool, cool. I have some voile in my Fabric Mart cart for another pattern but think I'll make this one instead. Caftan's can look nightgowns-ish but the details in this pattern help it avoid that. I appreciate the work around tip and suggestion to visit Coco's Loft blog for construction tips. And great tip about the interfacing too!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista | Chasing Time: My White Rabbit-Inspired Look for Atlanta Frocktails

For this year’s Atlanta Frocktails, I found myself captivated by a character who’s been quietly tugging at my imagination for years—the White Rabbit from Alice in Wonderland. There’s something so relatable about his frantic energy, always checking the time, always running late. While he’s worried about being on time, I’m usually calculating how late I can be and still technically arrive on time. Spoiler: I’m often wrong. It’s a cycle of procrastination and anxiety that I know all too well. So when I imagined my look for Frocktails, I thought—why not honor the White Rabbit? After all, time has been chasing me too. But this look isn’t just about Wonderland whimsy. It’s also deeply inspired by this year’s Met Gala theme, Tailored for You, which includes a focus on Black Dandyism—a celebration of Black elegance, intellect, and expressive style. I’ve been obsessed with this theme since it was announced. As a Black creative, I find it powerful and moving to see style used as a way to reclaim...

Made By A Fabricista: Getting into the Spirit of Summer

I'm not gonna lie y'all, I had a completely different project I wanted to do, but that's gonna take more time, and I wanted something cute, comfy and fun to wear for my birthday on the 19th. When I saw this goldenrod & off white linen jacquard , I thought it looked a bit like the design on a Koroks body, especially Makar from The Legend of Zelda: Wind Waker! I started with the bodice from the free Elderberry dress pattern from Mood, but deviated for the skirt, it felt a little plain of a design, and I had scraps of a Korok fabric that I knew would be a nice accent with some cut out pockets. I've made these pockets once before, deciding the cut out was based on aligning with the seam on the bodice for how far in, and as for how low depended on where I wanted the pouch of the pocket to start. From there I cut the visible part of the pocket, making sure to match the curve of the waist and following the line of the side seams of the skirt, as well as cutting a facing to...

Made By A Fabricista: A Pink Suiting Set for Spring

Spring is here! So is my first blog of the year. I had some inspiration with this one. I saw a picture on an Instagram profile and wanted to make my own. Now, my version ended up a little different, but overall, I really love it. However, I still want to recreate the inspiration pic at some point. For this look, I chose a cotton candy pink double weave suiting . It is soft, has a semi-textured hand, and has a crepe weave on the wrong side. The fabric does have some stretch to it. I absolutely love the color and feel of this fabric. This is a suiting fabric with the softness of a knit. The thing I do not like about it though is it snags. So, I had to be careful using pins and seam ripping to prevent snags. I had the Fernanda Vicki Sews pattern in mind but once I downloaded the instructions and saw how many pieces were involved, I switched to a different pattern, lol. I ended up making the Riana Blazer. It has a semi-fitted blazer with a straight silhouette. A belt and belt loops that yo...