Sewing Vintage for Summer

Hello sewing friends! 

I was highly motivated to try another one of the vintage Polynesian Pattern dresses I’ve collected during our hot weather. The patterns are all dramatic and fashionable and really apropos for summer styling. This one is number 204, the Pilialoha Dress. 

The gown includes a wide boatneck that many of them feature, plus a very beautiful back gathering and wraparound closure. I always find that the special details on the back are such a chic surprise compared to the simple front. 

I chose a lemon covered cotton lawn. I am really delighted with the quality of this cotton, it’s luxuriously soft and smooth. The scale of the lemons and blossoms are just right and not overwhelming, and the soft yellow background is beautiful. This could not be more charming and summery! 

I also chose some excellent lightweight interfacing for my facings, and the real highlight is these Dritz Floral Sew-On Snaps that I’ve had my eye on for months! Finally, the perfect excuse to use them in a garment. What a super fun design detail, I love them. 

I made a quick muslin and then a few alterations to the pattern. Polynesian Pattern designs all seem to be drafted for someone extremely tall, so I removed 8” at the hem (and I’m 5’4”). I shortened the bust dart by about an inch (but I should actually lower it a bit next time). And finally, I skipped the fisheye darts on the front since they interfered with the angled bust darts and I prefer summer dresses less on the fitted side. 

Here’s where I ran into an issue, gulp. The snaps are just two pieces each, not the four I was imagining (like a KAM snap) and thus if I used them correctly, they’d be hidden inside the back wrap section. No! These are made to be seen and admired, so I had to figure out a workaround. 

After sitting and staring disconsolately into space for a bit, I realized that I could use an eyelet stitch to reinforce the fabric in a small circle, and then punch a hole through the center which would allow the snap center to fit through and reach the connector half on the inside of the dress. I wouldn’t attempt this on fabric any thicker than this, but it definitely works! I was so relieved and admittedly felt a little genius. 

Crisis averted and my dress is exactly as marvelous as I anticipated! A few dramatic poses to exhibit how wonderful it feels…

I’d highly recommend adding a secret snap mid-thigh height on the back wrap hems to prevent accidental exposure. This style is an exceptionally breezy one!  

Happy sewing!

KATIE | @kak513