It's blazer season, people! My pattern is Burda 8/2015 #106A. Of course I had to choose black velveteen from Fabric Mart, it's a magnet for every bit of cat fur and lint to float through my house. But what did surprise me was how lovely it was to pre-wash. Because it's 100% cotton it washed and tumbled dry beautifully.
Then I went and chose a faux leather for the shoulder and pocket details... which was a fine enough material but it's actually a stretchy knit that ended up being a bit of a pain in the butt after it was sewn up. Let's look inside to see what's going on in there.
I used a sew-in hair canvas for the front lapel/back neck for some structure... but oh my goodness, I did not pad stitch it! Yes, this was a conscious choice because I did not want a very stiff look, just a softly-firm structure, if that makes sense?! I used an iron-on weft insertion for all of my other pattern pieces to give the fabric a bit more umph-- but opted not to used it in the sleeves. I made sleeve heads from the hair canvas. The shoulder details have the same weft interfacing adhered to it, but I added a layer of the velveteen because it needed to be hefted up. The faux leather is super thin. But I confess this detail ended up less the perfect-- in hindsight I needed a beefier material there that wasn't a slippery mess that rumples up just by looking at it. But alas!! Sewing is an adventure and not everything we sew is picture perfect every single time, amiright!?!
What do I really like about this in the end? The puffy sleeves are super cute, they are nicely supported between the lining and the sleeveheads, keeping them fluffed up and full. The sleeves are two pieces, allowing for a really nice fit. I made up a muslin (which I forgot to photograph, of course) in my standard Burda size 42 grading at the hip to about a 46. I also added 1" length to the sleeves and bodice, both normal alterations for me. The only change to the pattern was added about a 1/2" extra total to the front lower bodice to fit my figure better.
Okay, so my very favorite part is the lining. It's a super hot red poly satin from Fabric Mart. It has more substance than a charmeuse would and feels really nice. I had the buttons in my stash, given to me a few years back.
Although this blazer isn't as perfect as planned, I'll still wear. I flipped it inside out to take pics of the lining, and my son said to put it on... and he liked it that way instead. He's got good taste.
Happy Blazer Sewing!
~Kathy
Kathy Sews
Kathy Sews
Looks great!
ReplyDeleteIts beautiful Kathy and so very inspiring! I love sewing jackets but I have yet to adventure into sew in hair canvas! Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteI looks like it turned out really nice. I have been working on a jacket/coat (Simplicity 1732) and was wondering if you could point me in the direction of some good tutorials on lining / interfacing for this type of garment. I really don't like the pattern direction for this project. Thank you for sharing.
ReplyDeleteThanks!! My go-to resources for sewing jackets are Tailoring (from the Singer Sewing Reference Series) as well as Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing a Jacket. Both easily available online.
DeleteI've been wanting a velveteen blazer for years-- I saw one on the cover of Ottobre once and fully intend to make it one day! Until then, I shall covet yours with its spicy lining. And hair canvas! I need to remember that, for sure. Snazzy!
ReplyDeleteYour blazer is a very creative item and I do like the idea of using faux leather in clothing. It can be a surprise, good and/or bad when using these new vinyls. I love the red lining. This looks really good and I like that you didn't stick to the "good old rules"...good for you. You may want to rethink the jeans...a little snug. I think this jacket would look perfect with a pair of slacks, yes, old fashioned, but traditional is always a winner.
ReplyDeleteWell, uhm... thanks? Glad your taste on RTW jeans on a someone else's figure was clearly stated on a blog about sewing a blazer, anonymous person- so helpful on so many levels.
DeleteI had some trouble identifying myself with my last reply. I remarked on your jacket and that maybe you would want to rethink the tightness of the jeans. When one looks at you, it's the tight jeans that are noticed first and the jacket, which should be the focal point, is secondary. When you post your handmade items publicly you have to expect a bit of criticism, after all, that is how we learn. BTW, I have been sewing since 1966 and I do know what is a traditional look and that never goes out of style. barbnicoll@gmail.com
DeleteKathy, what a wonderful job you did. It really is quite stunning. I love that style, and think I will have to attempt a similar jacket (or that one) some day!
ReplyDeleteYour jacket is just gorgeous!
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