Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Papercut Patterns Stacker Jacket

Hello sewing friends! I'm truly delighted to join the wildly talented Fabricistas to share some of my sewing projects in 2021. Sewing has been very helpful for me with the lockdown happening; each project forces me to focus on something specific and completing each garment goal is highly satisfying. My wardrobe is definitely coming out of this whole era the most impressive it's ever been! 

Lately I've been eyeing some lighter jacket patterns. Living in southern California means that real winter weather never arrives, but I tend to run cold anyway and love to layer up to stave off the shivering. I settled on the Stacker Jacket from Papercut Patterns. The boxier style means I can throw it on over another shirt layer (or two!) without feeling like I'm too constrained, and I like the more cropped look since I don't need too much heavy coverage for weather that will soon be warming up around here. 

This was my first time using a paper pattern from an indie designer, and I'm so accustomed to printing my own PDFs that it was a huge treat to skip the taping step. The pattern and instructions come printed on midweight brown paper. I initially aimed to trace off just my size, but that quickly became more labor intensive than I had the patience for, so I went ahead and cut up the paper and saved all the scraps as neatly as I could for possible future sizing adjustments. I cut a straight size 3 since my measurements match the size chart almost exactly and I knew there'd be plenty of ease to play with. Bold times call for bold measures! I gave the paper pieces a quick iron (no steam!) to remove some of the creasing, and then I sewed a quick fit check using the lining pattern pieces before deciding to lengthen both the bodice and sleeves about an inch. You can grab your own paper copy of the Stacker Jacket here





For the outer portion of the jacket, I chose to work with a cotton sateen that's a heavier jacket mid-weight. I love these colors arranged together, they remind me of something both vintage and varsity. I would describe the hand as similar to a very soft canvas and the raised threads are a beautiful detail. I LOVE the challenge of pattern matching, and honestly, I was pretty thrilled to turn on a podcast, ignore my kids, and carefully cut out all my matching pieces. The fabric didn't fray very much as I cut out my pattern, and it was stable and pleasantly cooperative for lining up the stripes. I had fun playing with the stripe direction, too: I centered it vertically for the back yoke and patch pockets, and I flipped it for the front yoke so the tiny stripes are in the opposite order. The shape of the sleeves threw me for a bit of a loop as the seam matches up with the back yoke instead of the side seam at the armscye, so I opted to cut the cuffs to end at the same red stripe as the bodice, and overall I think that looks really cohesive.


 


The lining is a polyester satin that's *thisclose* to being a perfect color match with the outer stripes. The weight was a bit heavier than I anticipated and the heft works so, so well for this jacket. I'm really thrilled with the pairing of the two. This base frays more than the cotton, but overall the satin is surprisingly sturdy and stable, even across bias areas. The slick surface also makes putting on and taking off the jacket a breeze. Plus, how pretty is glowy satin peeking out from inside a jacket? 

I'm always dying to see the glorious guts and details of everybody's sews, so indulge me as I show a few inside shots and close-ups here. The bias cut under collar is like a fabulous secret detail, and although the pattern calls for hand sewing the sleeve cuffs to the lining, I also bagged the sleeve lining when I bagged the bodice of the jacket. I guarantee this gives a much lovelier finish than what I myself could accomplish with a needle. Let me say it now, I'm all for machine-sewing as much as possible. I reserved the necessary hand-sewing for the shank buttons. 


Thanks for reading! I'm quite happy to have this excellent new jacket to keep me warm for the next few months. Please check out my Instagram page for many future sews. 

KATIE  @kak513


Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following categories...

SATEEN, JACKETING, COTTON, & LINING.

You can also shop our stock of Papercut Patterns HERE.

Comments

  1. I love how you used this fabric! When we first got this fabric in stock, I loved it but wasn't sure what to make. This is perfect. AND added bonus that the lining matches almost perfectly. Great job!
    ~ Julie - co-owner, Fabric Mart

    ReplyDelete
  2. Replies
    1. Thanks so much! Jackets are so satisfying to make.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Feeling Festive in Red

Happy Holidays! I’m so excited to bring you this all red holiday look that would be a hit at any holiday gathering this season. Whether you’re headed to your company holiday party or just going to sit in your living room, you’ll fabulous doing so. For this month’s post I knew exactly what I wanted to make. I have been a Sew It Academy student since Mimi G opened it back in 2016.  Sew It Academy is her online sewing academy that shows you what to do once you open your sewing machine and different lessons come out every month showing you different techniques and how to sew different things. Sew It Academy now offers PDF patterns and sewalongs that come with them. I made the Boxy Pullover Top and the Bubble & Wide Hem Skirt which are both Sew It Academy patterns. The Boxy Pullover Top is the first garment class offered in Sew It Academy, so it’s super easy to make.  I’ve seen several YouTube videos for the same top and they are all pretty much contructed the same way.  I...

Made By A Fabricista: Everything Old is New Again: A Linen Skirt Using an Old(er) Pattern

Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Sharon from Sharon Sews with my last post for 2024!  This time I used one of my favorite fabrics, linen. Fabric Mart usually has an excellent selection of linens .  I should know as I’ve ordered my fair share over the years. This time I choose a medium-weight 100% linen with a black and white abstract print.  When I ordered the fabric, my plan was to use an old Issey Miyake pattern and sew myself an oversized linen coat.  But when the fabric arrived it told me it would be happier as a skirt.  Your fabric also talks to you, right?   I’ve been drawn to the look of satin bias skirts paired with oversized sweaters but knew that skirt style doesn’t work on my body shape.  Plus, once the holidays are over a satin skirt would just sit in my closet.  But a linen skirt, in a neutral black and white print, could be worn during the winter months with boots and a sweater and easily transition to warm weather with a tee and sand...

Made By A Fabricista: Cozy Sewing Season

The cozy sewing season seems like it came early this year! Temperatures in Pennsylvania have been in the freezing range for weeks, so it is time to break out the flannel, sweater knits, sherpa, wool, and other warm fabrics. Fabric Mart's website is stocked with gorgeous cozy fabric perfect for sewists living in cold climates. While searching for fabric for my first cozy sew of the season, a Cranberry Plaid 100% Cotton Flannel fabric caught my eye. I loved the colors and the plaid pattern. I ordered 3.5 yards to make a button-up flannel shirt for myself, and a little extra fabric to make a button-up shirt for my son. I also ordered two packs of 10 Soft Pearl Plastic Shirt Buttons and "My Mama Made It" sewing labels from Kylie and the Machine. I envisioned one of these labels being added to the side seam of my son's shirt for a bespoke detail. Once my order arrived, I washed my fabric and reached for my Grainline Studio Archer Button-Up paper pattern. I used this pat...