Made by a Fabricista: Structure

Hi everyone! I can’t believe the year is nearly wrapping up already and this is my last post for 2024!

You may have noticed but the barrel silhouette has been very much in right now from pants to sleeves. To be honest I was a little bit hesitant about hopping on to the trend. One I was not sure if the proportions would work for my body also I considered would this be a long lasting trend to keep incorporated in my closet? But after a few seasons the barrel seems to stay in many variations, I think exaggerated proportions are such a thing now.

I saw this Cult Gaia x Gap denim dress collab with the barrel sleeves and wanted to remake it. When I saw this brown distressed denim twill I knew it was perfect. I had been debating between making cargo pants but I wanted to try to do something different and went for the dress once I saw the inspiration.

I used McCall’s pattern 8139 as my base with the following modifications. Instead of a front button placket I installed a separating metal zipper. I redrafted the sleeves to make the barrel shape like in the reference image. It's a two piece sleeve by adding fullness and a dart to the upper sleeve.

The fabric used was perfect, it was able to hold shape well and gave it this really nice finish. I love the distressed wash of the fabric. It even paired well with my Bestie Bag that I made a few months ago using some Camo I got from the Fabric Mart site. I wore my look out while visiting St. Louis, MO. The Gateway Arch is a national monument and created the perfect backdrop.

JASMINE | @sewmuchjazz

Made By A Fabricista: The Sheer Volume Of It All!

This garment was inspired by a dress I saw in an ad, and when I went to purchase it (which I rarely do)…I realized that the dress didn’t come in my size. Ticked off and with $300 back in my pocket, I decided to draft it myself. The description listed the fabrication as a silk cotton voile, so I used that as a starting point to recreate the simple yet elegant silhouette. My drafting experience is limited; I’ve only ever made garments that are pleated rectangles that fit into an elasticated waist. No darts, no complicated calculations, and definitely no sleeves. But I’d have that dress if it’s the last thing I do! I made a drawing, created a Pinterest board to document my inspiration, and narrowed down the features I really wanted to have: billowy bubble-hemmed bishop sleeves (say it three times fast!), a fitted and lined bodice, and a gathered tiered skirt. Finally, it was time to shop for fabric. I knew I wanted a silk blend of some kind, without breaking the bank. For weeks, I ke...

Made By A Fabricista: In Love with Linen

Linen is the best fabric to sew and wear. I selected a beautiful 100% linen from Fabric Mart that is a steel blue and cream floral linen to sew up a By Hand London Hannah Wrap Dress pattern. The flowers look like Dahlias. I originally sewed a Toile from a black and white cotton bedsheet, wore the dress a lot but never made it again. I gave the Toile away to a friend who always commented on how much she loved the dress. When I saw this fabric, I knew I wanted to make the Hannah again. Linen is so easy to sew the entire experience reminded me why linen remains one of my favorite fabrics to sew. I look for a light to medium weight European linen for a dress. I like a rayon or cotton blend with linen because it seems to have more drape and be more soft. Linen gets softer with washing and wearing it. This particular linen feels crisp and after ironing and washing, softens up. I like how Fabric Mart describes the fabrics as top, dress, blouse, shirt weight under “Use” and will describe...

Made By A Fabricista: Blouse with a Unique Neckline? McCall’s 8658 Is It!

Hi everyone, this is Byrd with my latest Fabricista make! If you’re looking for a polished, structured blouse that works just as well dressed up as it does dressed down, this one is definitely worth a look. I’m sewing up McCall’s 8658, View B, part of the Spring 2026 pattern collection, and I paired it with Fabric Mart’s charcoal cotton poplin by Robert Kaufman. I was initially drawn to this pattern because of its unique neckline and tailored feel, and I knew right away that a crisp poplin would give me the structure I wanted. This blouse is semi-fitted and full of thoughtful design details that really elevate it. The neckline is a standout, featuring a collar and collar band paired with a front button closure. I especially love the shape of the front hem and the way it opens slightly - it adds movement without being overdone. The back is where a lot of the shaping happens, with double-ended darts that give a beautiful, contoured fit. The sleeves are gathered at the sleeve head a...

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