Made By A Fabricista: Embracing Winter in Wool Boucle

As winter drags on, the cold weather is such a bummer to me and feeling uncomfortable and cold so often is rough. Meanwhile, I listened to a podcast all about how people in very northern countries deal better with the onset of dark, freezing winter with a radically different mindset of embracing the inevitable season by reframing the chill as refreshing and the opportunity to spend most time indoors as cozy. I can do that! 

I found a gorgeous, quintessential wool boucle suiting in black and white to make myself a luxurious outer layer while I’m outside attempting to embrace the sting of dry winter air… It’s kind of working. So classic, so chic! Wearing boucle is always an uptown move and I certainly do feel sophisticated in it. This black and white houndstooth combination feels especially Old Hollywood, and what a treat to make something with this! 

I sewed the Daphne Jacket from Vivian Shao Chen. There are no closures, and the shape is boxy and very easy to wear over multiple other layers. I opted to sew the longer bodice length versus the cropped (because I’m all about warmth at the moment) and I added a couple of inches to the sleeve length. I love the curve of the shawl collar, and wearing it upright seems extra femme fatale. 

This boucle fabric is one of my rare exclusions from landing in the washing machine. I wasn’t sure how well this would handle the agitation or water and I didn’t want to pull on those loose fuzzy threads that make up the houndstooth design. Also fair warning: there will be some snags that happen while sewing and wearing these big uneven threads! BUT they are very easily pulled under to the wrong side and immediately become invisible in the heavy texture. 

For the lining, I grabbed some plain black cotton/poly voile. FYI, this is a really simplified lining; it’s just the same pattern pieces inserted with wrong sides together, not a separate drafted lining for bagging. When I cut my lining pieces, I shortened them at the hem so they would meet the outer hem fold at the bottom and not add bulk by being folded into the hem and thus doubled. For example, the hem allowance is 3”, so I removed 3” from the bodice lining. 

I also added an understitching seam to the collar to help keep the lining in place, whether I wear it up or down. 

Because of the weight and texture of this weave, I skipped the inner phone pocket, and I cut the matching big front pockets on the bias for interest, and I lined them as well for support. And warmth! 

Don’t forget thread-matching! I never fail to include this feature when I’m ordering, it saves me so many headaches. It’s a little security measure I never skip. 

May your winter outlook be a little less stormy and a little more cozy. My new heavy, warm coat is something I can look forward to putting on and heading outside into the cold. 

Happy sewing!

KATIE  | @kak513