Skip to main content

Resource Library: All About Knits

Have you ever wondered how knits are made? Well we've done all the research for you! Learn a little bit about how knits are made and the different types.

There are two methods used in producing fabric: Non-woven and Yarn Manipulation. Non-woven includes felting, bonding and interlocking fibers. Yarn manipulation includes: weaving, intertwining & twisting, and knitting. Weaving and knitting are the most popular methods being used in fashion, decor, medical, aviation, transportation and more. 


_________________________________________________________________

Knitting Processes

Stitch or Loop in black

Knitting is a fabric production method done by drawing a yarn with a needle or hook needle into a loop from a previously done loop. (Just like if you were knitting yourself!) The smallest unit of a knit is a loop or stitch. A row of loops running selvedge to selvedge are called Course and a column of loops running with the selvedge are called Wale.

Knitted fabrics are divided into two different types: Warp Knitting such as tricot and Weft Knitted fabrics like jersey.


1. Warp Knitting: This type of knitting involves the drawn loops run with the selvedge along the length of the fabric. The warp yarns are prepared on beams. Milanese, raschel and tricot are warp knits.

Milanese Knitting: Warp knitting with a diagonal rib. Run-resistant.

Raschel Knitting: Can be made with intricate eyelet, lacy patterns, plain or jacquard patterns. Raschel knit fabric is coarser than other warp knit fabrics.


Tricot Knitting: Can be made with either single or double sets of yarns. Run-resistant.




2. Weft Knitting: This type of knit uses one thread running selvedge to selvedge making all of the loops in one course. Can be made in a Circular (using a cylinder) or Flat Machine. Is the most versatile method

Circular Knitting: The fabric is knitted in the form of a tube in a circular machine, the threads run around the fabric.


Flat Knitting: The fabric is knitted in a flat machine, the threads alternating back and forth across the fabric.



Weft Knitting fabrics include jersey and double-jersey (known as double-knit).

_________________________________________________________________

Types of Knits

Jersey Knit: Flat knit fabric are made with loops drawn from back to front, the face looks uniform, loops running in a course and wales with no interruptions. The ends curls up. The back of jersey looks like having wavy, fine ribs running selvedge to selvedge.
Jersey knit face on the left, back on the right

BSA8078 - Stretch Rayon Jersey Knit - Bright Jade Blue

Double Knit: This type of knit is made from two layers of loops that cannot be separated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. The is made by needles drawing loops vertically and horizontally in each stitch.

MDB6787 - Striped Raffia Double Knit 

Rib Knit: This is a type of double-knit fabric with wales alternately on the face and back. Odd wales on one side of the cloth and even wales on the back, making it look the same on both sides. It does not curl on the edges and have good elasticity selvedge to selvedge.
Interlock Knit: This type of knit is a variation of a 1x1 rib knit with flat and stable characteristics. It is not as flexible crosswise as a rib knit is.

CEC6945 - Stretch Cotton Interlock Knit - Candy  Pink
 Ponte di Roma or Ponte Knit: This is another example of a double knit. The fabric is plain, looks the same on both sides and has flat, fine crosswise ribs. Ponti means bridge, full name would be Roman Bridge. The small units of double-stitches resembles a bridge. Ponte Knit is a versatile fabric, semi-flowy, light to medium, medium or even medium to heavy weight, suitable for working 3D designs on the apparel.


Ponte di Roma or Ponte Knit

CSB5939 - Berry Ponte Knit 
Pique Knit: Worked with stitches that raised cords in the warp direction, could be medium weight to heavyweight.

SZD6849 - Cotton Pique Jersey Knit 
~ Gabby ~

Images taken from www.textilesource.com, and www.textile2technology.com
Information adapted from Textiles Technology.

Comments

  1. What I would like to know is how to purchase knits with confidence. I get the different kinds of knits but there are so many different weights and I would like to be able to compare weights. Right now the information is usually light, medium or heavy weight. I imagine there is a huge range in "medium weight" fabric.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you for your comment! We will bring it up in our meeting about possibly doing an additional post to cover this topic. In the meantime, if you are planning on ordering fabric from Fabric Mart, you are welcome to call us and ask us questions about the knit you are looking at online. We understand that it is difficult to know if a fabric is right for your project when you can't see and feel it. And due to how quickly our fabric sells out, we do not offer samples. Please call us if you are unsure about our description.
    Thanks again!
    Kaitlin

    ReplyDelete
  3. Great information. I was wondering if you could expand this to explain ITY knits. There are a lot of these for sale on your website, and I'm never sure what this means. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you for your suggestion! We actually have a post planned to explain ITY knits and show you what to make with them. Keep checking back to see the post sometime in May!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Date Night looks for Valentine's Day

Happy New Year! I am excited to be back blogging in 2023 with Fabric Mart.  Over the past few weeks, I spent quite some time reflecting on what truly brings me joy and a personalized form of self-care. Sewing was on the top of the list and I truly enjoy making my own clothing.  During the winter break, I wanted to create some basic looks that I can jazz up for a wedding or rock on date night.  When I read Johanna’s  blogpost and came across the Vogue 1835 pattern that she made last month, I saw endless possibilities with the pattern.  I knew it was perfect to hack to make a mini, midi or maxi dress and a staple pattern to have. My original plan with the lycra foil printed knit ( here ) fabric was to make a formal infinity wrap dress that I saw on instagram.  I will be attending a formal event later this month and felt it was perfect. Knowing that I would only wear the infinity wrap dress once or twice per year, I decided to make separates that I can dress up or down and maximize the w

Made By A Fabricista: Sewing Toward Spring

Hello, all! I find it positively lovely to be back on the Fabric Mart blog in 2023 sharing more sewing projects.  This round I wanted to create an outfit to ease me back into spring. As I shiver and type this, imagining nicer weather is a very uplifting thought! But for now I’m stuck with chilly (and gusty!) weather that makes taking photographs more of a challenge. When I began working on this project, I was still swirling with holiday sewing, and while I usually have my sewing projects planned down to the T in advance, this time I was much more up in the air and just had the most cursory of ideas, so I kind of put together a little kit for myself to work with. If nothing else, seeing a beautiful little stack of fabrics and notions is very motivating.  Have you been in a constant swooning state over all the incredible Liberty of London wovens that have swept through the New Arrivals? I've, for one, have felt practically breathless poring through the huge assortment and adding a f

Made by a Fabricista: YouTube Edition | Marty - Let's Make Some Activewear!

Do you ever see a fabric, and it reminds you of a fabric in your stash, so you just have to combine the two and like... annoy the world? Now I'm not saying that these colors are horrible together, but I definitely feel like a high visibility vest while wearing them. The neon orange and hot pink are just that striking of a combination. And I still can't get over the pocket detail I did on the color-blocked pair. Along with everyone else I set a New Years goal to be more healthy. To improve my relationship with food, my body, and the world around me. And these leggings bring me so much joy. Not, go run a marathon in July joy. But maybe some Yoga and outdoor adventures in August kind of joy. From beginning to end, figuring out these legging patterns has been a lot of fun. Before this, it had been almost a decade since I had worked this seriously with knit, and I think I need to do more, to be honest. I apologize for the awkward photos. I just finished a cross-country move and am s