Skip to main content

Resource Library: All About Knits

Have you ever wondered how knits are made? Well we've done all the research for you! Learn a little bit about how knits are made and the different types.

There are two methods used in producing fabric: Non-woven and Yarn Manipulation. Non-woven includes felting, bonding and interlocking fibers. Yarn manipulation includes: weaving, intertwining & twisting, and knitting. Weaving and knitting are the most popular methods being used in fashion, decor, medical, aviation, transportation and more. 


_________________________________________________________________

Knitting Processes

Stitch or Loop in black

Knitting is a fabric production method done by drawing a yarn with a needle or hook needle into a loop from a previously done loop. (Just like if you were knitting yourself!) The smallest unit of a knit is a loop or stitch. A row of loops running selvedge to selvedge are called Course and a column of loops running with the selvedge are called Wale.

Knitted fabrics are divided into two different types: Warp Knitting such as tricot and Weft Knitted fabrics like jersey.


1. Warp Knitting: This type of knitting involves the drawn loops run with the selvedge along the length of the fabric. The warp yarns are prepared on beams. Milanese, raschel and tricot are warp knits.

Milanese Knitting: Warp knitting with a diagonal rib. Run-resistant.

Raschel Knitting: Can be made with intricate eyelet, lacy patterns, plain or jacquard patterns. Raschel knit fabric is coarser than other warp knit fabrics.


Tricot Knitting: Can be made with either single or double sets of yarns. Run-resistant.




2. Weft Knitting: This type of knit uses one thread running selvedge to selvedge making all of the loops in one course. Can be made in a Circular (using a cylinder) or Flat Machine. Is the most versatile method

Circular Knitting: The fabric is knitted in the form of a tube in a circular machine, the threads run around the fabric.


Flat Knitting: The fabric is knitted in a flat machine, the threads alternating back and forth across the fabric.



Weft Knitting fabrics include jersey and double-jersey (known as double-knit).

_________________________________________________________________

Types of Knits

Jersey Knit: Flat knit fabric are made with loops drawn from back to front, the face looks uniform, loops running in a course and wales with no interruptions. The ends curls up. The back of jersey looks like having wavy, fine ribs running selvedge to selvedge.
Jersey knit face on the left, back on the right

BSA8078 - Stretch Rayon Jersey Knit - Bright Jade Blue

Double Knit: This type of knit is made from two layers of loops that cannot be separated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. The is made by needles drawing loops vertically and horizontally in each stitch.

MDB6787 - Striped Raffia Double Knit 

Rib Knit: This is a type of double-knit fabric with wales alternately on the face and back. Odd wales on one side of the cloth and even wales on the back, making it look the same on both sides. It does not curl on the edges and have good elasticity selvedge to selvedge.
Interlock Knit: This type of knit is a variation of a 1x1 rib knit with flat and stable characteristics. It is not as flexible crosswise as a rib knit is.

CEC6945 - Stretch Cotton Interlock Knit - Candy  Pink
 Ponte di Roma or Ponte Knit: This is another example of a double knit. The fabric is plain, looks the same on both sides and has flat, fine crosswise ribs. Ponti means bridge, full name would be Roman Bridge. The small units of double-stitches resembles a bridge. Ponte Knit is a versatile fabric, semi-flowy, light to medium, medium or even medium to heavy weight, suitable for working 3D designs on the apparel.


Ponte di Roma or Ponte Knit

CSB5939 - Berry Ponte Knit 
Pique Knit: Worked with stitches that raised cords in the warp direction, could be medium weight to heavyweight.

SZD6849 - Cotton Pique Jersey Knit 
~ Gabby ~

Images taken from www.textilesource.com, and www.textile2technology.com
Information adapted from Textiles Technology.

Comments

  1. What I would like to know is how to purchase knits with confidence. I get the different kinds of knits but there are so many different weights and I would like to be able to compare weights. Right now the information is usually light, medium or heavy weight. I imagine there is a huge range in "medium weight" fabric.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you for your comment! We will bring it up in our meeting about possibly doing an additional post to cover this topic. In the meantime, if you are planning on ordering fabric from Fabric Mart, you are welcome to call us and ask us questions about the knit you are looking at online. We understand that it is difficult to know if a fabric is right for your project when you can't see and feel it. And due to how quickly our fabric sells out, we do not offer samples. Please call us if you are unsure about our description.
    Thanks again!
    Kaitlin

    ReplyDelete
  3. Great information. I was wondering if you could expand this to explain ITY knits. There are a lot of these for sale on your website, and I'm never sure what this means. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you for your suggestion! We actually have a post planned to explain ITY knits and show you what to make with them. Keep checking back to see the post sometime in May!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made by a Fabricista: Milo + Citrine

Hello sewing friends! It’s Andrea - @happy.things.here on IG and today I’m on the blog to share some sew inspo on one of my favorite kinds of garments to make – cardigans! I absolutely love making them and wearing them year-round, whether it’s an extra layer for around my house in the winter, as my outermost layer in Spring and Fall, or paired with a dress on a cooler summer evening. I love love love cardigans! And there are so many great cardigan patterns out there – chances are that each of your favorite pattern companies offers multiple cardigan patterns. Button-less cardigans are great beginner patterns, and a handmade cardigan is a lovely personalized gift since it’s more forgiving for fit and you don’t have to know someone’s exact measurements to make one. And you can make them in all sorts of knit fabrics too.  Today I chose two cardigan patterns to share with you that I think bring a little something extra to the table. They are the Seamwork Milo and the Made by Rae Citrine.

Made By A Fabricista: Taking My Time

At the start of the new year I like to reflect on how I will go about my makes for the year.  I noticed this year a lot of people created a Make Nine chart of the 9 main looks they want to make for the year.  For me I had taken a hiatus from sewing towards the end of last year and was fighting to get my sewjo at the beginning of the year.  Making this blog forced me to sit down in front of my machine and these pieces are the first full sewing projects to kick off my year. Starting off I did not know exactly what it was I wanted to sew but I knew I loved working with denim so I got denim and sateen with the initial intent to make a full look with the pieces together.  Once I received the fabric I realized the hand was a little bit different than what I expected and changed my plans. The denim set I am absolutely in love with and was inspired by a look I saw online and decided to recreate.  My favorite details are the zip removable pockets on the pants.  For this look I used McCall’s M81

Week 4: Jeansmaking- What They Made

This is it, the final round! And we certainly did not go easy on our three remaining contestants this time. This round they had to make their own pair of well fitting jeans. I think they all did an absolutely outstanding job! Take a look what these ladies accomplished & be sure to vote for your favorite! (Link at bottom of post.) And, don't forget to show us your me-made jeans on Facebook or Instagram. Details at the bottom of this post. Danesha from  Classyfied Life So first I must say that this entire challenge has been just that...a challenge! Two weeks ago there was hurricane Irma and I was blessed enough to not lose power and then I went out into the aftermath to capture some photos of my submission. Then two weeks ago I had a big trip planned so I had to do EVERYTHING  in two days . Then the BIGGEST challenge of all...THIS week! I got the challenge and I was super excited to have an extra few days and then before I could even get started I ended up in the eme