Wednesday, March 15, 2017

Made By a Fabricista: Flow Away like a Butterfly

HI Fashionistas:

My latest make is a beautiful flowy and drapey self-drafted circle top that makes me feel like a beautiful butterfly.  The colors on this fabric are so vibrant, and the color combination on the fabric is one of my favorites:



This fabric might have been the most beautiful fabric I have ever touched. It is a silk cotton blend, feels so soft to the touch. Has more body than a pure sheer silk, and while it was slightly more stable because of the fiber content, I did have some challenges that I will talk about in this post.

Here is a view of the back and side:





So in love with these sleeves!



Here is the fabric I selected.  It is abstract, if you look at the large pic of the fabric air drying, you will see it has large butterflies. So when I ordered the fabric, I knew I had to make large flowy wing-like sleeves!



I did not know exactly how to pretreat this fabric since I typically don't work with delicate fabrics.  I wasn't sure if this needs to be pre-shrunk, or whether it should go to the cleaners. So I asked the fabulous Erica Bunker, who is a seasoned seamstress and have worked with a range of fabric types. She suggested I wash and press it. I did not have the heart to throw this fabric in the delicate wash in the machine. So I hand washed it. And that was so much fun.  I love to touch and feel fabric. Something about hand washing the fabric made the creation of this garment a lot more personal 

I let the fabric air dry overnight.



The top was freehanded, no pattern. I will show you a sketch so you know how to make your very own top: I declare this as the laziest pattern in the world if you decide to make a paper pattern. I just drew on the fabric itself.


On the neckline, I did a bias tape. It came out beautifully. Here is a closeup of the neckline/ neck finish.


I had just the right amount of bias tape sitting around. I did attempt to make bias tape from the silk itself, but it was not stable enough.

Now lets talk about hemming this top- I ran into some challenges here. I tried the rolled hem foot on my industrial, and I could just not get comfortable enough with it. If I were doing a rolled hem on a straight hem, that would not be an issue. But hemming circle hems can be challenging as is. Add in the slipperiness of a silk, and that makes the hemming more difficult.

So upon the advice of my mentor. I tried the rolled hem on my serger. His name is Sergio, and for the most part, he is good to me. But he just shred the silk to pieces. It's not his fault. My thought is that an all purpose thread was too heavy for this fabric. So I resorted to YouTube land and found out that you can add stability to silks by roll hemming 2 layers. So I tried that and it worked. I folded over the hem and rolled hem. I disengaged the knife and then trimmed really close to the hem as shown here. The hem is more "lettuce edgy" than I would like, but I can live with it .

Honestly, I meant to take this online class about sheer fabrics, but time got away from me. Now you know this is the next class I am buying.  I strudied with Sara Alm at Apparel Arts and she is brilliant. I probably would have saved a lot of time and trial error had I taken the class!



They say that rolled hem is the ideal finish for sheers, but I think I would have preferred a bias tape finish on the hem as well. I might come back at a future time and apply the bias tape to the hem.

Overall.. I love this top. It's light and fresh for spring! I paired it with white skinny jeans. I have not worn these in months and I definitely had to jump up and down to squeeze into them!

I ordered 2 yards of this fabric. What I loved about this project is that the amount of waste was very little. I used a majority of the fabric to make the top from, which is one big circle (donut) and the remaining fabric was used to create an infinity/ circle scarf.  I love an all white outfit for spring with a pop of color.

The sleeves, the neckline, and the print are my favorite parts of this butterfly top.

I hope that you enjoyed reading about this make. I am getting started on my Mommy and Me Easter make after this one.

Hope you are having a fabulous week.  See you with my next make.

XOXO
Vatsla at Fashion Behind The Seams

10 comments:

  1. GORGEOUS!! Just Gorgeous!! The colors are so beautiful and you hightlight what you can do with a little imagination. As beautiful as you are you do look like a lovely butterfly!

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  2. Your beautiful pieces are really making the fabric work for you! Stunning!

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  3. Such beautiful pieces! I love the interplay of pattern & flowy sleeves & I really like the lettuce edging quite a lot too.

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  4. Beautiful! Love the colors! A perfect look for Spring!

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  5. Thank you for sharing your beautiful creation - as well as all of the tips that you gleaned along the way! I'm waiting for my order of this very fabric to arrive any day now & am thankful that you've saved me a lot of headaches! I hope that my top will turn out as gorgeous as yours!

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  6. Several years ago, I was making about 2 dozen chiffon scarves for the women in our family of a myriad of prints and colors. With some of the fabric, I had difficulties hemming with a rolled hem on my serger. My test scraps were getting smaller and smaller but the hems kept pulling out. Finally, for a reason I do not understand, I cut a dry cleaner clothes bag into long strips and placed them atop the chiffon as it went through the serger. The stitches held. I then gently pulled the strip away from the stitching (very easy) leaving a tiny strip of the plastic strip inside the stitching. Then I used my steam iron (Reliable i300 steam generator) and melted the plastic into the tiny hem. Perfect !!

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  7. Your top is lovely. I followed your link to Fabric Mart, but the fabric is all gone! I am recovering from major back surgery and am behind my Bloglovin reading but an now only three days behind. Someone else got there before I did. Probably for the best.

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