Skip to main content

Made By A Fabricista: Sewing the True Bias Mave Skirt!

Hello sewing friends!

Do you have a favorite garment to sew? My favorite garment to sew is a dress, probably because I prefer to wear dresses. However, this time I chose to venture into sewing a skirt to match a few blouses I have sewn recently. I chose to make the True Bias Mave Skirt in Onyx 100% rayon twill shirting fabric. 

The pattern called for wide fabric (58” was recommended), and this fabric was only 48” but I made it work by cutting the last tier x3 instead of x2.  The pattern has numerous versions you can make if your fabric is not 58” wide, such as a mini version or a maxi version without tiers. You can mix and match the tiers also to make your own versions. I chose to sew the maxi length with 3 tiers. I selected my size based on my waist measurement for the waistband, but then cut the tiers according to the largest size on the pattern for extra gathers. 

It is drafted for a person that is 5’5” tall. The finished length for the maxi version is 37” and I went with that length. It ended up being midi length on me. I am 5”10” so next time I would lengthen it by 5” to reach maxi length for my height. I think the sizing on this pattern is spot on and also forgiving if you choose incorrectly because of the amount of ease. 

This rayon twill fabric was a delight to sew. I chose the color Onyx so it will match anything. It was difficult to identify right side from wrong side, so I recommend marking your fabric as you cut. I try to make a habit of identifying right side and the top of a tier or skirt, especially with a directional fabric or fabric with a nap when cutting out fabric so I don’t make an error in sewing later. I like to use tape since it will not disappear (as some fabric marking pens tend to fade) or fall out like a pin. How do you prefer to mark your fabric?

The pattern was easy to sew. This is a beginner rated pattern. True Bias has a sew along blog post on their website with step-by-step pictures and instructions. I found it to be really helpful! I did not sew the waistband as instructed as the seam would have been exposed, so I chose to finish it so the seam is enclosed. I sewed the waistband onto the skirt on the inside first, right side waistband to wrong side skirt. Then, flipped it over to the front and topstitched a folded edge down on the front. I also chose to only sew 2 seams around the waistband instead of 4, I didn’t think all 4 were necessary. The waist tie is fully functional but you could omit this if desired or you could sew on a tie for decoration. 

There is a lot of gathering in this skirt, but I don’t mind gathering. I love wearing gathers and have recently bought a gathering foot. I am still learning how to use it, I am not sure I like it yet. I have discovered it works best on lighter weight fabrics. Do you have a gathering foot or a method you like to use? 

And of course, there are pockets! The pockets are not deep enough for my preference, next time I will use my favorite pocket pattern: Tilly and the Buttons Indigo dress pocket! It is my favorite because it fits my phone and small coin purse perfectly. Although, I am on the lookout for a pocket that is sewn in the waist seam so it doesn’t weigh down my dress. If you have a favorite pocket, drop it in the comments below! 

I chose to use “waistband elastic” which I really like, it is very soft and comfortable. I constructed the skirt using all French seams, which is my preferred method of finishing seams. 

One of the many reasons I love to sew is to create a garment that fits me (usually with an extra amount of ease) in a fabric that is comfortable using construction methods that I prefer. This skirt was a fun sew that incorporated all of these preferences. I would like to make this in a rayon or a chiffon with a lining next time. The pattern and sew along provides directions for adding a lining! 

I am wearing an Anna Allen Anthea Blouse with the skirt, it is made in a rayon Art Gallery rayon fabric from their Enchanted Voyage collection, it is called night sky. You can still find it if you’re lucky! I found a remnant in a bin at a local deadstock fabric store for $4 and it sells for $18 a yard. 

Happy Sewing! Let's be friends! I am @Hoppaheedahoe on Instagram!

Happy Sewing,

Patricia  |  @Hoppaheedahoe

Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following categories: SHIRTING.
You can also shop our selection of True Bias patterns HERE.


Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: ITY Dress

Hi sewing friends - Andrea here from Happy.Things.Here over on Insta with this week’s post – I’m sharing about a favorite fabric and pattern today!  So… the last two months have almost gotten the best of me. We made a somewhat unplanned decision to move homes and life has been just insanely busy and hard to find time to sew. But sewing  is such a joy and a stress reliever for me, so I fit in this fun and easy sew amidst the chaos and it made me sew very happy! Sneak peek – how could this print NOT make someone happy? First, let’s talk fabric. ITY , or Interlock Twist Yarn, is one of my all-time favorite fabrics for sewing clothing. Fabric Mart did an Instagram post with a video on this fabric and I highly recommend you check it out if this fabric is new to you. Three things I love about ITY – 1) it’s easy to care for and rarely wrinkles, 2) it’s easy to wear, great for drapey pieces, and works all year long, and 3) Fabric Mart gets great deadstock prints and colors from fashion design

Made By A Fabricista: Summer Separates in White Eyelet

To me, eyelet fabric suggests warm weather and sunshine.  I can envision myself sipping lemonade, while swaying on a porch swing with a gentle summer breeze on my face, all while wearing a lovely eyelet dress.  Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Sharon with Sharon Sews here sharing my latest Fabricista make with you.  This time I sewed some separates using a summer staple, eyelet fabric.   A quick search online revealed eyelet being used in more than just dresses this season, ranging from romantic dresses to flirty tops to wide-leg pants and matching camp shirts.  I even saw a man’s white eyelet top on a high-end shirt designer’s website.  There are so many options for using eyelet fabric, but I liked the look of eyelet pants with a matching top. Both fabrics were designer fabrics – I LOVE that section on the website! A white 100% cotton geometric floral embroidered eyelet lawn, and a baby pink/white 100% cotton embroidered pinwheel floral voile.  Both are so, so lovely!  I also took advantage

Made By A Fabricista: Breezy Summer Style with Rayon Challis from Fabric Mart.

Hey there my sewing friends!  Summer is here and I am all for it.  It has been exceptionally hot here in Southwest Florida. We have had temps in the high 90’s.  I want to keep cool and comfortable and still look pulled together this summer.  That’s why I chose rayon challis for this month’s summer make.   Rayon Challis is lightweight, flowy, soft and extremely comfortable to wear. It’s an excellent choice for summer outfits.  It has a beautiful drape making it an excellent choice for maxis, tops, dresses, and shorts. The fabric is lightweight and depending upon your sewing project you may need to use a lining with this fabric. Also use a lightweight interfacing when working with rayon challis.  If you are a beginner at sewing, you may find the fabric a bit fiddly to work with, but the end result is so worth it.  Fabric Mart has beautiful challis fabric to choose from. I chose this fun tropical print on an off-white background. This summer season vests are in.  I love the ease of wearin