Hello sewing friends!
Do you have a favorite garment to sew? My favorite garment to sew is a dress, probably because I prefer to wear dresses. However, this time I chose to venture into sewing a skirt to match a few blouses I have sewn recently. I chose to make the True Bias Mave Skirt in Onyx 100% rayon twill shirting fabric.
The pattern called for wide fabric (58” was recommended), and this fabric was only 48” but I made it work by cutting the last tier x3 instead of x2. The pattern has numerous versions you can make if your fabric is not 58” wide, such as a mini version or a maxi version without tiers. You can mix and match the tiers also to make your own versions. I chose to sew the maxi length with 3 tiers. I selected my size based on my waist measurement for the waistband, but then cut the tiers according to the largest size on the pattern for extra gathers.
It is drafted for a person that is 5’5” tall. The finished length for the maxi version is 37” and I went with that length. It ended up being midi length on me. I am 5”10” so next time I would lengthen it by 5” to reach maxi length for my height. I think the sizing on this pattern is spot on and also forgiving if you choose incorrectly because of the amount of ease.
This rayon twill fabric was a delight to sew. I chose the color Onyx so it will match anything. It was difficult to identify right side from wrong side, so I recommend marking your fabric as you cut. I try to make a habit of identifying right side and the top of a tier or skirt, especially with a directional fabric or fabric with a nap when cutting out fabric so I don’t make an error in sewing later. I like to use tape since it will not disappear (as some fabric marking pens tend to fade) or fall out like a pin. How do you prefer to mark your fabric?
The pattern was easy to sew. This is a beginner rated pattern. True Bias has a sew along blog post on their website with step-by-step pictures and instructions. I found it to be really helpful! I did not sew the waistband as instructed as the seam would have been exposed, so I chose to finish it so the seam is enclosed. I sewed the waistband onto the skirt on the inside first, right side waistband to wrong side skirt. Then, flipped it over to the front and topstitched a folded edge down on the front. I also chose to only sew 2 seams around the waistband instead of 4, I didn’t think all 4 were necessary. The waist tie is fully functional but you could omit this if desired or you could sew on a tie for decoration.
There is a lot of gathering in this skirt, but I don’t mind gathering. I love wearing gathers and have recently bought a gathering foot. I am still learning how to use it, I am not sure I like it yet. I have discovered it works best on lighter weight fabrics. Do you have a gathering foot or a method you like to use?
And of course, there are pockets! The pockets are not deep enough for my preference, next time I will use my favorite pocket pattern: Tilly and the Buttons Indigo dress pocket! It is my favorite because it fits my phone and small coin purse perfectly. Although, I am on the lookout for a pocket that is sewn in the waist seam so it doesn’t weigh down my dress. If you have a favorite pocket, drop it in the comments below!
I chose to use “waistband elastic” which I really like, it is very soft and comfortable. I constructed the skirt using all French seams, which is my preferred method of finishing seams.
One of the many reasons I love to sew is to create a garment that fits me (usually with an extra amount of ease) in a fabric that is comfortable using construction methods that I prefer. This skirt was a fun sew that incorporated all of these preferences. I would like to make this in a rayon or a chiffon with a lining next time. The pattern and sew along provides directions for adding a lining!
I am wearing an Anna Allen Anthea Blouse with the skirt, it is made in a rayon Art Gallery rayon fabric from their Enchanted Voyage collection, it is called night sky. You can still find it if you’re lucky! I found a remnant in a bin at a local deadstock fabric store for $4 and it sells for $18 a yard.
Happy Sewing! Let's be friends! I am @Hoppaheedahoe on Instagram!
Happy Sewing,
Patricia | @Hoppaheedahoe
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