Made By A Fabricista: Sewing the True Bias Mave Skirt!

Hello sewing friends!

Do you have a favorite garment to sew? My favorite garment to sew is a dress, probably because I prefer to wear dresses. However, this time I chose to venture into sewing a skirt to match a few blouses I have sewn recently. I chose to make the True Bias Mave Skirt in Onyx 100% rayon twill shirting fabric.

The pattern called for wide fabric (58” was recommended), and this fabric was only 48” but I made it work by cutting the last tier x3 instead of x2. The pattern has numerous versions you can make if your fabric is not 58” wide, such as a mini version or a maxi version without tiers. You can mix and match the tiers also to make your own versions. I chose to sew the maxi length with 3 tiers. I selected my size based on my waist measurement for the waistband, but then cut the tiers according to the largest size on the pattern for extra gathers.

It is drafted for a person that is 5’5” tall. The finished length for the maxi version is 37” and I went with that length. It ended up being midi length on me. I am 5”10” so next time I would lengthen it by 5” to reach maxi length for my height. I think the sizing on this pattern is spot on and also forgiving if you choose incorrectly because of the amount of ease.

This rayon twill fabric was a delight to sew. I chose the color Onyx so it will match anything. It was difficult to identify right side from wrong side, so I recommend marking your fabric as you cut. I try to make a habit of identifying right side and the top of a tier or skirt, especially with a directional fabric or fabric with a nap when cutting out fabric so I don’t make an error in sewing later. I like to use tape since it will not disappear (as some fabric marking pens tend to fade) or fall out like a pin. How do you prefer to mark your fabric?

The pattern was easy to sew. This is a beginner rated pattern. True Bias has a sew along blog post on their website with step-by-step pictures and instructions. I found it to be really helpful! I did not sew the waistband as instructed as the seam would have been exposed, so I chose to finish it so the seam is enclosed. I sewed the waistband onto the skirt on the inside first, right side waistband to wrong side skirt. Then, flipped it over to the front and topstitched a folded edge down on the front. I also chose to only sew 2 seams around the waistband instead of 4, I didn’t think all 4 were necessary. The waist tie is fully functional but you could omit this if desired or you could sew on a tie for decoration.

There is a lot of gathering in this skirt, but I don’t mind gathering. I love wearing gathers and have recently bought a gathering foot. I am still learning how to use it, I am not sure I like it yet. I have discovered it works best on lighter weight fabrics. Do you have a gathering foot or a method you like to use?

And of course, there are pockets! The pockets are not deep enough for my preference, next time I will use my favorite pocket pattern: Tilly and the Buttons Indigo dress pocket! It is my favorite because it fits my phone and small coin purse perfectly. Although, I am on the lookout for a pocket that is sewn in the waist seam so it doesn’t weigh down my dress. If you have a favorite pocket, drop it in the comments below!

I chose to use “waistband elastic” which I really like, it is very soft and comfortable. I constructed the skirt using all French seams, which is my preferred method of finishing seams.

One of the many reasons I love to sew is to create a garment that fits me (usually with an extra amount of ease) in a fabric that is comfortable using construction methods that I prefer. This skirt was a fun sew that incorporated all of these preferences. I would like to make this in a rayon or a chiffon with a lining next time. The pattern and sew along provides directions for adding a lining!

I am wearing an Anna Allen Anthea Blouse with the skirt, it is made in a rayon Art Gallery rayon fabric from their Enchanted Voyage collection, it is called night sky. You can still find it if you’re lucky! I found a remnant in a bin at a local deadstock fabric store for $4 and it sells for $18 a yard.

Happy Sewing! Let's be friends! I am @Hoppaheedahoe on Instagram!

Happy Sewing,

Patricia | @Hoppaheedahoe

Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following categories: SHIRTING.
You can also shop our selection of True Bias patterns HERE.

Made By A Fabricista: Revisiting a Pattern After Five Years

Have you ever used a sewing pattern and then immediately vowed never to sew it again? Well, I have. It all began in the spring of 2020 at the start of the pandemic lockdown. I tackled sewing projects that were more challenging to help me grow as a seamstress. There was one pattern in particular that almost did me in, the Seamwork Penny shirt dress. The Penny dress pattern has a classic button-up dress shirt style bodice with a gathered skirt and pockets. It is a beautiful take on a shirt dress, and my sister and I loved it. The only downside is that it was recommended for intermediate-level sewists and I was only an adventurous beginner back then. I think I had only ever made one button-up shirt before attempting this Penny Dress and it didn’t even have a collar! Despite all of this, I thought “Why not try it, what’s the worst that can happen?” Thankfully the worst didn’t happen, and the dress turned out surprisingly wearable, but I had some intense frustration at the end. I...

Made By A Fabricista: A Simple Frock for Spring

Hello friends! I’m really into sewing and wearing tent dresses at the moment. A tent dress is basically a wide A-line style gown. For this month’s project, I’ve opted to try out The Assembly Line’s Square Neck Dress. This style is a little avant-garde in its enormity and shape, and boasts the squared neckline it’s named after, plus some cute hem side slits. All that volume is fun to move around in, plus there’s loads of air circulation which is cooling. This dress’s main feature–its wide and high squared neckline–really piqued my interest recently, and I added it to my Make Nine plans for 2025. I find it so satisfying to check off those boxes as I sew! This beautiful shirtweight linen is a color I simply adore; a muted medium blue. Stormy skies, worn-in denim, and ocean waves all come to mind, and that is exactly what I want to be all wrapped up in. While I think a wild or large print would be amazingly on display in this big canvas of a dress, I also thought that a subtle ...

Made By A Fabricista: Bold Aspen Dress for Spring

As I write this in mid-April, central New Jersey weather is showing small signs of spring. My neighbor’s daffodils are blooming and our magnolia tree is trying to unfold its vibrant magenta petals. I am in the midst of preparing my wardrobe for the warmer months, even if we are still huddling against windy 30 degree days. For me, warm weather means linen. I love breathable, floaty linen sundresses and drapey, loose linen wide-leg pants. My vision for a spring piece was something bold and bright, inspired by the natural colors of blooming flowers, but also something that could transition well between the warmer and cooler months. When I saw Fabric Godmother’s Apsen Dress, I knew that it had the sensible transitional opportunities I was looking for while also providing a blank canvas for fun prints, patterns and colors. With the pattern in mind, I then turned to the stunning linen collection that Fabric Mart always has on hand to see what colors or patterns would best suit my visio...

Fabric Mart Fabricistas

Search This Blog