Made By A Fabricista: The Zadie Jumpsuit in a Gorgeous Silk Noil!

The Zadie Jumpsuit has become one of those rare sewing projects that I return to again and again. The pattern, created by Paper Theory, is beautifully drafted and thoughtfully written, making it appropriate for confident beginners but still fun to make for experienced sewists. I have made this pattern before, so I wanted to select an fun fabric. Feeling adventurous, I wanted to use a fabric I have never sewn with before in a dramatic color.

I choose to use a beautiful, bright yellow silk noil from Fabric Mart to make this jumpsuit. Silk noil is made from silk and has a slubby texture and is linen like. When silk is made, the long fibers are spun into silk thread, but the short fibers are made into silk noil. Because the fibers are short, the fabric becomes textured. Silk Noil is also known as raw silk. Unlike slippery silks, it behaves like a stable cotton fabric so it is easy to sew! 

I’ve made two versions, each with a completely different  look. My first was sewn in a red linen, which gives the jumpsuit a structured, crisp feel. The second version was made in a flowy rayon which completely changed the drape. The rayon version moves more fluidly. It’s fascinating how the same pattern can transform depending on the fabric choice. Fabric Mart has numerous linens, rayons and silk noil to select to make this pattern. The Zadie in one of these fabrics is the kind of garment that looks put together but still feels like you’re wearing secret pajamas. 

I have worn this out a few times and have received so many compliments on the fabric color and how cheerful it is. Then I get to share that it is made out of silk noil and my friends are amazed and have never heard of silk noil before. It is not a common fabric I see in ready to wear except in high-end stores. It is definitely a treat to sew and wear. I am so pleased with how this has turned out and I am keeping my eye out to purchase more silk noil from Fabric Mart in the near future.  

I have read that silk noil gets softer after washing, and after pre-washing my fabric, it is really soft. If you are wanting to sew a new type of fabric, silk noil is one of the easier silks to sew. You can even wear silk noil year round! It is cool in the hot seasons and warm in the cold seasons. 

I will end with a few tips for sewing with silk noil. Use a microtext needle 70/10 because it can snag and finish your seams as it will fray. I chose a mixture of French seams and zig zagged edges to finish my seams and it worked well. I really enjoyed sewing with this gorgeous silk noil. I hope I have convinced you to try sewing with it soon!

Patricia  |  @Hoppaheedahoe