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Made By A Fabricista: Having fun with ITY border fabrics

Hello sewing friends! I’m back on the blog today continuing to share my obsession with sewing ITY fabric. If you’ve seen any of my previous posts, you know that I like to shout from the rooftops about how much I love creating garments with ITY.  ITY is short for Interlock Twist Yarn, and the name describes the construction process. The key thing to know about this fabric is that it is usually wrinkle-resistant, silky and smooth to the touch, and despite being polyester, feels relatively cool to wear in the summer too.  Here is one of my all time favorite dresses I made from ITY a few years ago which has been in regular rotation in my work wardrobe:

And here is the awesome thing about ITY and Fabric Mart - this fabric is super popular with designers and so Fabric Mart is always picking up new and on trend stock. When I browse the website, it is always the first section I check because there are some GORGEOUS fabrics I’ve seen and grabbed over the years. Here’s a favorite top of mine:

Oftentimes I see ITYs pop up on the website that have a wide border – so there is the main featured print and then a different print that runs either selvage to selvage or perpendicular to the selvage (so up and down). I have a few cuts sitting in my stash but until now, I hadn’t taken the time to incorporate the border into my design. So I grabbed two fabulous prints with borders and made two entirely different looking tops. Let me share these new makes and tell you a little bit about my process.

First up – the simpler print which is a lovely salmon color and combines a solid with a gingham print. I fell in love when I saw it; it was giving me serious Spring vibes after a long cold winter! I made a short sleeve banded tee from one of my go-to patterns – Pattern Emporium’s Bestie Tee. I’m not overly tall but for this pattern, I used the tall cut line for the bodice (or else I find it too short for my liking) and made the cap sleeve version. Here’s how it turned out:

For this top, I positioned the fabric so that the gingham print ran directly down the center of the bodice. This is where sewing with a projector definitely comes in handy, because I am able to directly project the full bodice image onto my fabric and get that print exactly where I want it. 

Here is one of the small downsides of sewing with border prints or asymmetrical designs – it’s hard to be efficient with your fabric. So, there is a little more wasted fabric after you’re done. And since the gingham print part made up less than half of the real estate of the fabric, I didn’t have enough left to do the same thing for the back. But I rather like the look of the full solid back:

For the second top I made, the fabric was a bit more diverse in terms of the design. There are three different things going on with this fabric! We have two solid colors –white and taupe - and then a smattering of organic black dots that are thickest in the middle of the fabric and then thin out on the edges. I LOVE this fabric! Again, a projector was very handy to tailor my pattern placement, but definitely not required. Here is what my pieces looked like after I cut them out:


For reference, this is the Emma top from Sonia Estep Designs. I hadn’t made this one in a few years and wanted to do a dolman style top, so dug this one out from deeper in the files. I sized up two sizes to get a looser fit and opted to add the long sleeves but then cut them shorter to get more of a ¾ sleeve look. Here’s my top:

I love that slouchy dolman feel!


And here is the back:

I love how the little dots pop on the neck and waistbands:

The second top is my favorite of the two, but it was a close competition.

I hope these makes inspire you to try sewing a top in a border print or asymmetrical fabric. There are so many lovely prints that show up often on this site! The highest praise I can get from my kids (and hey, it’s not often, they’re teenagers) is that something I made looks like “it came from the store”. And that’s what I heard about these tops. 😊

Have you sewn with ITY border fabric? Did you love the result? Any tips to share?

Happy Sewing!

Andrea  |  @happy.things.here

Comments

  1. Wonderful variety of makes, your use of the border prints is very interesting. I am always drawn to the eye candy that ITY gives on the FM website. Unfortunately it challenges my sewing skills.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I do use a serger for sewing anything I can related to knits and that definitely helps a lot. The pink ITY was thinner than the polka dot and it did challenge me a bit!

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  2. Both are gorgeous! I love the choice of simple patterns that allow the fabric to shine. The dot version is my fave.

    I love ITY too, but I haven't explored border prints yet. I kept seeing that gingham one a couldn't envision how it could work. You helped me catch the vision!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I am all about the simpler patterns these days, and especially for brilliant fabric. If you take the plunge with the border prints, share your make so I can find it!

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  3. Oh! I love the gingham top, but then again, gingham *is* my love language ;) g

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    1. I do love a good gingham print! I rarely see it in knits so was excited to find this gem!

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  4. I love what you did with the gingham. A very good up dated use of a gingham print. It is really nice with out being too cutesy

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! It’s already getting a lot of wear!

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  5. I love the dress! What pattern did you use? I have beautiful ITY I purchased from this website and that dress would be perfect. Thanks

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    1. Hi! Thank you so much! That pattern is the first and flair dress from Pattern Emporium. I’ve made in several times and I’m a big fan!

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  6. I have a length of that black/tan/cream material. (I got it while I was contemplating a camel colored capsule) that I never made. I am trying to figure out how to use it to its best advantage. That style top doesn't suit me but I am DEFINITELY putting the polka dot "pops" on the neckbinding like you did.

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    Replies
    1. I would love to see your make with this fabric and the dot pops!

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  7. Cute tops! I too am a big fan (and purchaser) of ITY from FM. Since cutting a border print crosswise is usually less stretch than most knit patterns require, I've avoided buying border prints when I want to make a top. How do you deal with not having the required stretch? Do you size up? I once tried using a woven pattern for a border print and it ended up in the trash.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I cut my bands with the stretch so don’t have to make any adjustments. The border ran along the stretch for that fabric.

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  8. You always have the best ideas, and these tops are no exception.

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    Replies
    1. Oh my goodness thank you! I’m always looking for ways to jazz up quick sews!

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