Skip to main content

Resource Library: Choosing the Right Needle.

Being confused by which needle you need to use is a very common problem among new and some old sewers.
So don't get discouraged!
With so many different numbers and fabrics to choose from it can make you quite uncertain of the correct needle for your specific project.
But don't worry! We're going to break it down for you and help you learn the basics about sewing machine needles.


 Let's start with the anatomy of a sewing machine needle.



Needle Anatomy from Threads:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how


Shank: Top portion of the needle, usually having a flat back, that is inserted into the sewing machine with the flat slide facing the back. Needle is tightened into place with a screw on the machine. 


Shaft: The body of the needle determining the needle size based on the width of the shaft.


Front Groove: Slit above the eye that allows the thread to be flat against the needle.


Point: Tip of the needle that penetrates the fabric and forms the stitch with the bobbin thread. Shape of point varies between needles. Important to pay attention to when choosing a needle for your fabric.


Scarf: Indentation on the back of the needle that helps eliminate skipped stitches. A longer scarf is preferred.


Eye: The hole at the tip of the needle that allows thread to pass through. Eye size changes with the needle.



Needles range from size 8-18. These numbers are corresponded with the European needle sizes 60-120 on the packages. So for a pack that says 70/10, the 70 is the European needle size and the 10 is the American size.

The smaller the number, the smaller the size.
That size is relavent to the weight of your fabric. For sheer materials such as chiffon, you would want to select the smallest needle size. For a heavy weight outdoor canvas, you would want to use the largest needle.  

Below is a basic needle size chart I found on the blog Presser Foot.


Easy enough right?
But wait! Before you begin sewing we must discuss the point of the needle!

Here is a great picture of needle points from Sew-What's-New




Univeral: Slightly rounded point that you can use on knits or wovens, hence why they are called universal. So if you are completely baffled by which needle point to use, begin with this one.


Jersey/Ball Point: This medium tip is slightly rounded to pass between the threads rather than pierce them which can create runs in your light weight knit fabric. A ball point needle will not damage the spandex in knits. Using these needles on heavier knits helps creates even stitches.


Stretch: This needle features a deep scarf so the bobbin hook can get closer to the needle and prevent skipped stitches when sewing on fine lighweight knits such as silk jersey or highly elastic knits. Use this needle when you are experienced skipped stitches with the ball-point needle.


Jeans/Denim: This needle has a thick shaft and a very sharp point. Ideal for sewing denim, canvas, or tightly woven fabrics. 


Microtex/Sharp: This needle has a narrow shaft and a sharp point to piece the threads of woven fabrics. Use for stitching finely woven fabrics such as silk, lightweight suede and microfiber fabrics. The sharp point also helps enable perfectly straight stitching which makes them great for topstitching!


Leather: This tip is wedge-shaped with allows it to penetrate leather, suede, and vinyl without tearing them.


Self-threading: The eye has a slot on the one side so you can easily slide the thread when you are having trouble threading a regular needle. This needle works best on wovens, but tends to snag knits.


All the above information can be found on this great chart I highly recommend you print out and refer to when you need some quick help!




You are welcome to comment with questions!
Happy Sewing!

Comments

  1. Thank god I found this post of yours. I was using wrong needle from a very long time in my sewing works.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: I Sewed a Chic Matching Set with Fabric Mart Knit Fabric

There’s nothing I love more than sewing a project that is both stylish and comfortable—and this one checks all the boxes! For this make, I paired two Pattern Emporium designs with a gorgeous designer knit fabric from Fabric Mart, and the result is a matching tank and wide-leg pant set that’s as easy to wear as it is to sew.   The Fabric Fabric Mart always has hidden gems, and this designer knit caught my eye right away.  It’s the Urban Taupe/Gold/Black Polyester/Lycra MK Chain Print ITY Knit - NY Designer - 56W.  The weight, stretch, and drape made it perfect for both a fitted top and a flowy pant. It’s soft against the skin, has great recovery, and presses beautifully. When working with knits, having a fabric that behaves well makes all the difference. The Patterns To build my set, I chose two favorites from Pattern Emporium: • The Works Tank Top – Simple, classic, and versatile. It skims the body just right and works beautifully as a layering piece or on its ow...

Help Our Buyers Shop!

  Comment on this post with what you are looking for right now and our buyers will seek it out!  I am craving wool gabardines and ponte knits in fun autumn colors. What about you?

Made By A Fabricista: A Berry Bold Suit – Scallops and Wide Legs for Fall

Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Sharon from Sharon Sews back with a fabulous Fabricista make for fall.  I fell in love with the color of this stretch suiting and couldn’t wait to sew myself something to wear as the weather starts to cool off.   Before I share about my jacket and pants, can we have a moment to appreciate this “Jazzberry Jam” color? It brings to mind strolling through my local farmer’s market, filling my tote (handmade of course!) with fresh produce, and then baking seasonal goodies, something I love to do when the weather turns crisp.  Of course, I’m not wearing my suit for that outing!  The fabric is a designer polyester/rayon/lycra mid-weight stretch suiting that has a lovely drape and a wonderfully soft feel.  I ordered it with a jacket and pants in mind, but honestly, it would have also been stunning sewn into a vest, skirt, dress, or even a lightweight coat or cape.  It’s such a versatile fabric.  I ordered matching thread from Fa...