Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Sewing Pamela's Patterns with Ann

**If you've been thinking about the Pretty Peplum Top Sew Along, this is a great preview of what you will be making! Click HERE to learn more about the Sew Along, which will begin in February!**



I'm always a little perplexed when it comes to making alterations to patterns, and Pamela's Patterns advertises that their patterns already include the most common alterations, including high round back, forward shoulder, full bust option, extra hip/tummy room and a great fit in the neck and shoulder.  That sounded good to me!

So, I couldn't wait to try their newest patterns- #114- the Pretty Peplum Top and #115- the Softly Pleated Dress.  Here are my versions:



For both patterns, the first step- picking your size-asks you to choose your size based on your high bust measurement. Each pattern has two front pattern pieces- one with a dart, and one without. If there is more than a 3" difference between your full bust and high bust, she suggests using the darted front.  So, since my difference was right at 3", I decided to use the darted front for both. 



The pattern suggests good quality knit fabric, and emphasizes that you should stretch the fabric and make sure that it bounces back to its original length. If it doesn't, she says, don't use it. I chose two double knits from Fabric Mart- one was a cream lacy look, and the other a bright rose.  Both of these were firm knits and had excellent recovery after stretching.  

The pretty peplum top has both long and cap sleeve options, and a keyhole or scoop neckline.  I chose the scoop neckline with the long sleeves for this top.



The Softly Pleated Dress pattern includes a crew or square neckline, long or cap sleeves, and three different length options. I originally made mine the longer dress length, but it was way too much pink!    So, I shortened it to the tunic length. It's still pretty bright, but it should brighten up a drab winter day.



   I used the square neckline.  Here is what it looks like from the outside:



And this is what it looks like from the inside. You just make a tiny dart at the edges.  My fabric is a little too thick to flatten it out, but ideally, you would press these tiny darts flat. The directions encourage you to use Stay Tape for thinner, drapier knits, which would be a fantastic idea. These particular knits were quite firm, so I skipped that detail.



The back of the Pretty Peplum Top truly is pretty!  The peplum is not too full- just enough fullness to give you some shape.



You can see the back of the Softly Pleated Dress also has pleats to add a little back interest as well.


 
I liked the method Pamela has you finish the necklines on both tops. You press the seam allowance of the neckline seam towards the band, and then fold the raw edge of the band back over the seam allowance and stitch "in the ditch".  This gives the band a little filler so that it stands out more.  You then trim off the excess binding close to your stitching on the wrong side.




I made one change on the Softly Pleated Dress, and that was to add pockets.  I love having pockets to carry my phone.  I didn't want to use the double knit fabric for the pockets in case it would be too bulky, so I found a similar colored silk twill and just used an inseam pocket pattern from another dress.



I placed the top of the pockets three inches below the waistline seam in the side seams, and it is just right. You can see them from the inside here, as well as how the pleats are sewn in place.



Pamela also has You Tube fitting videos on these tops to guide you in making any adjustments to fit your own shape. I liked where the waist hit me on both of these tops, so I didn't change it, but she recommends basting in these seams until you can try them on and look in the mirror to check the fit.



I'm getting a small fold right above the bust on the Pretty Peplum Top, which Pamela suggested might be because my armhole is too long.  She does include shorten/lengthen lines on the front, back and sleeve for this alteration, so I will try that with my next version.  Overall, I'm really happy with both tops!  I think there are many great possibilities with both patterns, and can see using them quite a bit in my future sewing!

Happy Sewing!
Ann Brodsky
SewBaby News

Comments

  1. Ann, I love this! :) Obviously I am a fan of the softly pleated dress having just made it, but seeing the pretty peplum top it makes me want to join in on the sewalong!!!

    Thanks for reviewing these and furthering my love for Pamela's Patterns and double knits!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh and the tip for putting the pockets three inches down from the waist seam, must remember to do that on my next version of the softly pleated dress (or tunic).

      Delete
  2. Thanks for sharing, both tops look great! I especially like that you show the inside, it really helps.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I so enjoyed your finished tops and appreciate all your comments. I found out after making a knit muslin for the simple t-shirt, that I too needed to make a tuck above the bust and that helped immensely. Because of this I also tucked the cap of the sleeve. I will continue to use her patterns.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made by a Fabricista: Structure

Hi everyone!  I can’t believe the year is nearly wrapping up already and this is my last post for 2024! You may have noticed but the barrel silhouette has been very much in right now from pants to sleeves.  To be honest I was a little bit hesitant about hopping on to the trend.  One I was not sure if the proportions would work for my body also I considered would this be a long lasting trend to keep incorporated in my closet?  But after a few seasons the barrel seems to stay in many variations, I think exaggerated proportions are such a thing now.  I saw this Cult Gaia x Gap denim dress collab with the barrel sleeves and wanted to remake it.  When I saw this brown distressed denim twill I knew it was perfect.  I had been debating between making cargo pants but I wanted to try to do something different and went for the dress once I saw the inspiration.   I used McCall’s pattern 8139 as my base with the following modifications.  Instead of...

Made By A Fabricista: A Wool Pinafore for Winter

Hello exciting wintry weather! Brrr, though. For my December post, I wanted to sew something more unusual for me, something outside my wide leg pants and big boxy sweaters, and this pinafore combination is exactly that. I really like the layering aspect and how easily one could switch up the look based on the top worn underneath, and how this pinafore pattern could easily work for all seasons based on fabric choice and possibly adding leggings. The new Love Notions Pianoforte Jumper in this incredibly charming polka dot wool blend suiting is just right. I wanted wool for warmth, and the sweet print just sent me. Of course a pinafore looks SO darling in dots. The Pianoforte is a slightly-cocoon shaped dress with princess seams and some large and handy front inset pockets. There is a zip-front option, but I went with the pullover plain front. I love the vintagey, sort of old-timey vibes of this style, and categorize this one under dopamine dressing.  Because the wool is on the heavi...

Made By A Fabricista: Cozy Sewing Season

The cozy sewing season seems like it came early this year! Temperatures in Pennsylvania have been in the freezing range for weeks, so it is time to break out the flannel, sweater knits, sherpa, wool, and other warm fabrics. Fabric Mart's website is stocked with gorgeous cozy fabric perfect for sewists living in cold climates. While searching for fabric for my first cozy sew of the season, a Cranberry Plaid 100% Cotton Flannel fabric caught my eye. I loved the colors and the plaid pattern. I ordered 3.5 yards to make a button-up flannel shirt for myself, and a little extra fabric to make a button-up shirt for my son. I also ordered two packs of 10 Soft Pearl Plastic Shirt Buttons and "My Mama Made It" sewing labels from Kylie and the Machine. I envisioned one of these labels being added to the side seam of my son's shirt for a bespoke detail. Once my order arrived, I washed my fabric and reached for my Grainline Studio Archer Button-Up paper pattern. I used this pat...