Thursday, November 19, 2015

Made By a Fabricista: The Seven Day Coat

Hi Fashionistas!!!
I have missed you. I have been a busy little sewing bee. Earlier this year when I started thinking about my bucket list, making a winter coat was one of the items on my list. And that is what I have been working on for the last seven days....


When I started thinking about coat making, I had a structured coat in mind. I have always been fascinated with the structure that goes inside a tailored jacket or coat, so I decided I wanted shoulder pads, I wanted hair canvas and pad stitching, I wanted sleeve headings, I wanted it all!!!


I chose to go with a design that was a bit millitary-esque. I exaggerated the neckline for a more dramatic look and used custom-made shoulder pads to add structure to the garment. I also used hair canvas throughout the neckline to make sure it would stand up. The fabric is a yummy 100% wool melton coating fabric from Fabric Mart. You can check out their gorgeous selection of wool fabric HERE.


I really am in love with this neckline...It's oh-so-majestic!


If you look at my inspiration pic, you will see that my version is very similar to it, with minor variations. Since time was of the essence, I decided to take a ready made pattern and modify it instead of making my own pattern from scratch.


The pattern I used as a base is Vogue 8346 view A, and modified the pattern accordingly to match my inspiration. The main pattern alterations I made included changing the front bodice, and the collar. I also lengthened the coat by an inch and a half. Of course I made a muslin. I actually ended up with three alterations.

Moving on to one of my favorite things about this coat... Not only does it have the gorgeous stand up collar that I wanted, it also converts into a gorgeous shawl collar. I mean... two looks in one?! That's what I'm talking about!



I styled this coat with one of my favorite cowl neck chunky sweaters, a classic double stand of vintage pearls, My favorite skinny jeans and the boots with the furrrrr!!!!!


And the coat looks just as nice with the buttons undone. It's such a classic pointy shawl collar. It's not a true shawl collar because I did preserve the original collar from the center back seam to the shoulder seam.


But no coat is complete with a fabulous lining..... so I lined this coat with a pretty silky fabric just like I did on my wool cape last month!


This was my first time making in-seam pockets.  In-seam pockets are actually really easy to sew!  I am not sure why I was shying away from them!


I am just loving the back of this coat. The seams pressed beautifully. The fabric was a dream to work with. The lining was so beautiful, it made me want to get up and dance and sing. (And y'all know I cant sing.)


One of the reasons I love sewing so much is that you never stop learning! Here are the new techniques I learned while working on this project:

  • How to set in a fabulous sleeve (I combined 3 techniques to get the perfect set in sleeve)
  • How to create custom shoulder pads
  • The hybrid method of tailoring that combined fusibles and padstitching.
  • I need an industrial machine (Honey, are you listening?!!!!)

Overall, this was a really amazing project. I hope that you enjoyed reading this. Leave me a comment and let me know what you think about it! I will be doing a "Behind The Seams" blog post on the making of this garment, so you can come into my workshop and take a virtual tour of all that went into making this coat! 

And until next time, happy sewing!
-XOXO

18 comments:

  1. Gorgeous coat! I can't wait for your in depth post on the construction details.

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    1. Thanks Becca.. I cant wait to publish the "Behind The Seams" post...

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  2. Very beautiful and styled in the same manner!

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  3. Your coat is fabulous and you look beautiful!

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  4. Gorgeous! I'd love to see the detailed post! That wool melton is beautiful too! Great job.

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    1. Thank you Elizabeth! The detailed post is coming soon!!

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  5. I'm in LOVE with this coat! Absolutely beautiful! You did an amazing job! Love the lining. And honey, those BOOTS! Yes!!!

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    1. Thanks Anita! Those boots have been hiding in my closet for way too long!

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  6. Vatsla, the finished coat is spectacular and you look ravishing in it. Eagerly awaiting your detailed post- I love the inside pictures almost as much as the outside!

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