I have missed you. I have been a busy little sewing bee. Earlier this year when I started thinking about my bucket list, making a winter coat was one of the items on my list. And that is what I have been working on for the last seven days....
When I started thinking about coat making, I had a structured coat in mind. I have always been fascinated with the structure that goes inside a tailored jacket or coat, so I decided I wanted shoulder pads, I wanted hair canvas and pad stitching, I wanted sleeve headings, I wanted it all!!!
I chose to go with a design that was a bit millitary-esque. I exaggerated the neckline for a more dramatic look and used custom-made shoulder pads to add structure to the garment. I also used hair canvas throughout the neckline to make sure it would stand up. The fabric is a yummy 100% wool melton coating fabric from Fabric Mart. You can check out their gorgeous selection of wool fabric HERE.
I really am in love with this neckline...It's oh-so-majestic!
If you look at my inspiration pic, you will see that my version is very similar to it, with minor variations. Since time was of the essence, I decided to take a ready made pattern and modify it instead of making my own pattern from scratch.
The pattern I used as a base is Vogue 8346 view A, and modified the pattern accordingly to match my inspiration. The main pattern alterations I made included changing the front bodice, and the collar. I also lengthened the coat by an inch and a half. Of course I made a muslin. I actually ended up with three alterations.
Moving on to one of my favorite things about this coat... Not only does it have the gorgeous stand up collar that I wanted, it also converts into a gorgeous shawl collar. I mean... two looks in one?! That's what I'm talking about!
I styled this coat with one of my favorite cowl neck chunky sweaters, a classic double stand of vintage pearls, My favorite skinny jeans and the boots with the furrrrr!!!!!
And the coat looks just as nice with the buttons undone. It's such a classic pointy shawl collar. It's not a true shawl collar because I did preserve the original collar from the center back seam to the shoulder seam.
But no coat is complete with a fabulous lining..... so I lined this coat with a pretty silky fabric just like I did on my wool cape last month!
This was my first time making in-seam pockets. In-seam pockets are actually really easy to sew! I am not sure why I was shying away from them!
I am just loving the back of this coat. The seams pressed beautifully. The fabric was a dream to work with. The lining was so beautiful, it made me want to get up and dance and sing. (And y'all know I cant sing.)
One of the reasons I love sewing so much is that you never stop learning! Here are the new techniques I learned while working on this project:
- How to set in a fabulous sleeve (I combined 3 techniques to get the perfect set in sleeve)
- How to create custom shoulder pads
- The hybrid method of tailoring that combined fusibles and padstitching.
- I need an industrial machine (Honey, are you listening?!!!!)
Overall, this was a really amazing project. I hope that you enjoyed reading this. Leave me a comment and let me know what you think about it! I will be doing a "Behind The Seams" blog post on the making of this garment, so you can come into my workshop and take a virtual tour of all that went into making this coat!
And until next time, happy sewing!
Vatsla at Fashion Behind The Seam