It's blazer season, people! My pattern is Burda 8/2015 #106A. Of course I had to choose black velveteen from Fabric Mart, it's a magnet for every bit of cat fur and lint to float through my house. But what did surprise me was how lovely it was to pre-wash. Because it's 100% cotton it washed and tumbled dry beautifully.
Then I went and chose a faux leather for the shoulder and pocket details... which was a fine enough material but it's actually a stretchy knit that ended up being a bit of a pain in the butt after it was sewn up. Let's look inside to see what's going on in there.
I used a sew-in hair canvas for the front lapel/back neck for some structure... but oh my goodness, I did not pad stitch it! Yes, this was a conscious choice because I did not want a very stiff look, just a softly-firm structure, if that makes sense?! I used an iron-on weft insertion for all of my other pattern pieces to give the fabric a bit more umph-- but opted not to used it in the sleeves. I made sleeve heads from the hair canvas. The shoulder details have the same weft interfacing adhered to it, but I added a layer of the velveteen because it needed to be hefted up. The faux leather is super thin. But I confess this detail ended up less the perfect-- in hindsight I needed a beefier material there that wasn't a slippery mess that rumples up just by looking at it. But alas!! Sewing is an adventure and not everything we sew is picture perfect every single time, amiright!?!
What do I really like about this in the end? The puffy sleeves are super cute, they are nicely supported between the lining and the sleeveheads, keeping them fluffed up and full. The sleeves are two pieces, allowing for a really nice fit. I made up a muslin (which I forgot to photograph, of course) in my standard Burda size 42 grading at the hip to about a 46. I also added 1" length to the sleeves and bodice, both normal alterations for me. The only change to the pattern was added about a 1/2" extra total to the front lower bodice to fit my figure better.
Okay, so my very favorite part is the lining. It's a super hot red poly satin from Fabric Mart. It has more substance than a charmeuse would and feels really nice. I had the buttons in my stash, given to me a few years back.
Although this blazer isn't as perfect as planned, I'll still wear. I flipped it inside out to take pics of the lining, and my son said to put it on... and he liked it that way instead. He's got good taste.
Happy Blazer Sewing!