Skip to main content

Made By A Fabricista: Wool Boucle Winter Coat


I have a long list of winter coats I want to sew and a small, juicy pile of gorgeous wools to make them. I snagged this heavyweight wool coating from Fabric Mart last month. It's a bit unusual because it's backed with this heavy poly knit material... imagine a thicker, heavier version of that cup lining in a foam cup bra, then adhere a 100% wool boucle on top. This stuff is THICK and has lots of structure. I had my walking foot on my sewing machine the whole time.  I used Jalie #2680 that even Fabric Mart now sells, it's called the "Stretch City Coat".  


The pattern is on the sportier side and calls for a technical stretch knit with some body to it, and it's not meant to be lined. My material has zero stretch and is very thick, so I went up one whole size to accommodate for that as well as made 5/8" seam allowances (the pattern has only 3/8" SA's). I made a muslin in a size X bust, size Y waist and size BB hip. I added one inch to the sleeve length and one inch to the bodice length above the waist. I wasn't thrilled with the length with my muslin, you can see that below, so I added SIX inches to the hem length. 

I write notes all over my muslins with black sharpies

This is a screen shot below of the fabric I used here. I find this sort of info really helpful when I'm researching patterns and fabrics folks have used for them.  


The most obvious change I made was adding the belt and loops. I pulled out a random coat pattern I had on hand to use its belt and loop pattern pieces. I have no buttons or snaps here either. The coat stays together nicely with the belt alone. 


The coating's backing is not slippery at all, is black and attracts all lint ever--- so I underlined the whole thing with a poly lining from my stash.  Black with metallic gold polka dots!  


From the inside view you can really see all of the piecing involved with this pattern.  Princess seams are my favorite for fitting! The heavy knit backing on the coating acts as a built in interfacing, so I skipped any iron-on stuff or hair canvas. I also made the lower half of the jacket a little more of an a-line to better suit my pear-shaped figure.


I confess the hem finishing isn't my best, it's more noticeable at certain angles. I had an exceptionally hard time with this fabric blind stitching by hand so I opted for the pattern's suggestion-- just top stitch with my machine. No non-sewing person will ever notice any "imperfections" in a zillion years.

Raw edge of front lapel facing is serged (at LEFT).  Cute and fun polka dot fabric for the pockets (at RIGHT).
And speaking of top stitching, I topstitched everything on the seams!  It helped smooth down the thick layers of material. It's barely even noticeable due to the busy-ness of the boucle, but I used a zig zag stitch. The pic on the left below I point to the seam on back, and squint you can see it zoomed in on... notice the zig zags??  I used a zig zag to catch the raw edges of the boucle on the inside of the coat seams and to prevent unraveling.  I simply serged the facing's raw edges-- I considered enclosing the edge with bias tape but it would have added more bulk to a bulky fabric.  


I'll be wearing this in fall and into early winter, until the real deep freeze kicks in. It's a warm coat but not having a warmer underlining I can't wear it to trounce around in knee deep snow.  I feel like I am going against the grain with a fitted waist and more classic aesthetic here.... the hot look right now is boxy with menswear inspired shapes. I want one of those, too, but I feel I can't go wrong with a look like this... it'll will be worn for years to come.


Happy Coat Sewing!
~Kathy
Kathy Sews

Comments

  1. This is so fantastic <3 I really love that you underlined it!!! It gives a different feel to it that just works.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Looks fab. The colour and hood are great. I know what you mean about the boxy thing: I am really struggling to decide on a coat pattern to sew!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I really like the fabric and the simplicity of it. Awesome job with the insides too :-)

    ReplyDelete
  4. I love this and what an interesting coating! I have had a winter coat on my mind lately- yours is inspiring!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Gorgeous coat! I've had this pattern for years but have never attempted it because I've been stymied by it needing a somewhat warm, but stretch fabric and not having a lining. Looks like you aced the fabric/pattern pairing!

    ReplyDelete
  6. I've had my eye on this pattern for a while, Kathy! Of course you went and made something that I like more using lots of pattern modifications which I will probably be too lazy to do...sigh. Also, this fabric is amazing but I guess they must not have it anymore since there isn't a link? I'm trying to get motivated to sew a coat, but all that work is intimidating me. Plus, I'm not sure what I want to make. Gah!

    ReplyDelete
  7. simply adorable! my favorite of all the things you've made. Love everything about it and it's beautifully conceived and sewn. p.s. I write on my muslins as well - kind of fun!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Excellent and classic coat. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
  9. What a great coat and I love all your details . Beautiful lining too.

    ReplyDelete
  10. What a fabulous looking coat! It looks good on the inside too. I love your contrast polka dot fabric. A RTW coat is no match to your look.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: College Inspired Cardigan

Happy Monday All! It has been a while since I wrote a blogpost and it feels great to be back! Today I am excited to share my daughter who hasn’t graced the blog for quite sometime. Now that my children are older, I have to always get their permission to take photos and share. It took a lot of convincing to get my daughter to rock this FAMU (Florida A & M University) inspired cardigan. I originally planned to make the Blackwood cardigan using the orange and green ponte knit for myself to represent my alma mater FAMU but then realized I cut the wrong size.  I was a bit disappointed at first that I cut a medium instead of a large but knew my daughter would rock it. Additionally, even if I wanted to squeeze in the cardigan, it just could not even pass my elbow when I tried it on. It was definitely a learning experience because I now know that you cannot add a non stretch ribbon around a fitted knit garment sleeve. It must be added to a loose sleeve as the ribbon stops the fabric from s

Made By A Fabricista: Velvet for the Holidays

Are you getting ready for the holidays?  I am.  From past years, it gets so busy in my household around this time of year, so it is never too early to start my holiday sewing.  This year I decided to sew velvet, a fabric I had not sewn for many years but I think it is luxurious.   As luck would have it, FM’s poly rich black velvet flashed on my computer screen and I bought lots.  I thought it would be pretty for a one-shoulder gown, which I had never worn before but admired on others.  The following week FM’s multi-colored one showed up.  It was a poly embossed Bohemian print velvet with jade, yellowish, and crimson colors; it screamed fall and family get-togethers.   I just had to have it!  When the fabrics arrived, the deep colors did not disappoint. I chose Butterick B6557 for both dresses, View B for the knee-length printed dress and View C for the maxi dress. It was perfect for velvets; the front was one whole piece and so was the back.  I cut the fabrics with the nap going down

Made By A Fabricista: An Outfit for First Snow

We had a marvellous autumn in western Canada with warm dry days and just a couple of hints of frost. When I was perusing Fabric Mart Fabric's site in October, I was tempted to focus on pretty florals for blouses or dresses but part of me knew that ... (da dah dum ... ) winter is coming . Fortunately, Fabric Mart was stocked with a huge selection of fabrics that are perfect for winter or holiday sewing. Over the past several months I've been planning my sewing projects so I have pieces that work together. To stick with that theme, I decided to pick a print fabric for a top, and a solid for pants, using navy as the neutral. Pants For the pants, I selected Navy Poly/Nylon/Spandex Stretch Corduroy. This fine 14-wale corduroy is warm enough to wear outdoors but will be especially comfortable indoors. It also has a bit of drape which makes it nice for trousers. And who doesn't want some stretch?  I selected Vogue 9181 (Custom-Fit Bootcut Pants) because it is designed for stretch