Saturday, January 23, 2016

Made By A Fabricista: A Spring Shirtdress


Simplicity 8014 was definitely on my radar when it was released this past fall. I love shirt dresses and definitely one with a full skirt! Unlike the rest of the free world, the bodice of McCall's 6696 didn't work for me, but I had a good feeling about this one. And, if you know me you know I tend to shun the muslin. So I went to work on standard adjustments.


I take a size 14 for chest measurement; but the finished bust was 39.5". I have a 39.5" bust! I did a 1" FBA to end up with a finished bust of 41.5" (I like a close fit).

I measured and decided to narrow the shoulder 3/8" and did a 5/8" swayback adjustment.




Another standard adjustment for me is adding 1" to the bicep. Well, I measured this pattern piece and the sleeve was exactly the same as the Burda project I'd just sewn. Sweet! Well, that garment was a  knit! Oops :) My sleeve is a little snug; I'll make a note to adjust it for next time.



The bane of my existence with sewing this pattern. The pocket. They have you do some convoluted craziness. The pocket attaches up to the waistline and then they have you go back and sew the side seam from waist to large dot. It was so bulky and awkward! 

Luckily, I had nice, well behaved cotton that took a press amazingly well!

I selected THIS cotton poplin, totally because of the print. How fun is that?!


I am so happy with the fit I achieved on the bodice! This fabric has no give -- as poplin is a tight, plain weave -- so I feel really good about my fit adjustments!

The fabric is so soft against the skin and the color is really bright and vibrant! I prewashed this in cold water, on the gentle cycle and dried it on medium heat. It was slightly wrinkled when it came out the dryer but it takes a pressing like a champ.

Let's check out the details!

-Front and back has tucks at the waistline
-I chose these soft blue buttons to compliment the print
-I added sleeve tabs with a non-functional button; I just love the sleeve tuck!
-Yoke and flat piping

I was going to add red piping but after doing the sleeve tucks, I decided to do some flat piping out of self fabric. I used bias cut strips that were 1.5" wide and pressed in half. I then used Wonder Tape (greatest stuff on earth) to secure and then sewed the seam. I think it's such a subtle but fun detail!




I've done this kind of sleeve with the tuck and the written instructions always confuse me.

-Traced the line while the sleeve was flat. After sewing the sleeve, I turned up the hem to meet the line and pressed in place.
-Then turned up again, at the traced line, and pressed. 
-Stitched on the folded edge - the pattern instructed 1/4" but I went slightly narrower (3/16") to more closely match the flat piping. 
-Unfold and press the tuck up into place.


I like it with an actual belt a bit more. 
The tie is one of the only aestheic things I'd change; I think it should be a bit wider

When I first attached the skirt and tried it on I was SO frustrated that I'd chosen this fabric + this pattern. I thought it was too whimsical and too '50s and the fabric has some body to it and it felt too poofy and just all around too..."not me". 

But once I attached the collar and the buttons and it was finished -- I LOVED it!!! I love the fit, the silhouette, the length - everything. The fabric is so soft and cozy (and between you and I think it would make an amazing pair of the piped pajamas that are trending) and the dress really feels fantastic on. 

There's quite a bit of this fabric left: HERE!

Spring is right around the corner, even for the tundra. I'll be ready!

Nakisha


25 comments:

  1. Oh this is so cute! I'm so glad that this worked out better for you than the McCall's. :)

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  2. I love it.. I love the pattern/fabric..just everything about it.. It looks and fits great.. Happy sewing.

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  3. The shirt dress is lovely, in a fun print!

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  4. Very Flattering on you...
    Good Job!

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  5. It's cute, definitely a summer staple and it looks great on you.

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  6. Lovely! It is a bit outside your normal style zone, but it looks great!!

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  7. i love shirtwaists. you're so right that they're very comfortable when the fit is right and you absolutely nailed it! the skirt is a great shape for you too. not so much fullness that it's a great big little-girl poof (a mistake that a lot of women make) but enough that it makes your waist look great. the RTW belt gives it that final polish and makes it look very professional. very high-end. would you make it again with long sleeves in, say, good flannel for the colder months? i've been thinking of that for myself.
    can you explain again about the sleeve technique? i can't quite get it. is there a link to it or a name for it that i can research?
    the bias piping is nicely subtle. very couture. wow! i hadn't seen that for a long time. i love seeing bloggers today who excel in tailoring techniques.
    i've ben sewing for (holding my hand over my big mouth and mumbling) years and a lot of what i now see is the way i learned to sew back then. for a long time all i saw was quick and easy sewing without any fitting or fine finishing. everything looked like raggedy bags. it's good to see real dressmaking and true tailoring coming back into it's own.

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    1. Thank you Barbara!

      I think they're just called tucks on the sleeve (same sort of idea as sewing a pin tuck). I think that if you followed it while mocking it up, it'll make more sense. I can't seem to find anything on the web specific to that technique :(

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    2. i understand it now. the tuck gives the appearance of a turned-up cuff and captures the raw edge of the hem at the same time as well. is that right? i've done that on bodice front right sides to mimic the appearance of a button placket and added buttonholes. then i top stitched on the other side of the fake placket and you really can't tell the difference. very good idea on the sleeve. sure beats making a long hem, turning it way up and then top stitching the top edge. i know it's easier than adding a separate placket. i think the name of the technique is called 'learning' ;)

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    3. YES! Exactly!!

      And learning is an apt name :)

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  8. That is a beautiful dress!! Looks great with the belt, I agree.

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  9. I love this dress, it's so flattering on you!

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  10. I totally agree with Levone. That dress is wonderful. Best BER

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  11. Wow! This looks fantastic. The fit is amazing. Your attention to the details is impressive. Looks professional. And you look great wearing it.

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  12. Nakisha, it is beautiful! I love how it fits you! Great work--as always!

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  13. I admire your skill in making this the perfect dress for you. I love shirt waist dressess too and this one is just right for you

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  14. Now see this is a prime example why blogs are awesome! I would never had looked at this fabric if you had not made this dress, I love it! The fabric and the dress that is!

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  15. I adore this on you! The fabric looks made just for you! I look at this and I am happy!

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  16. Very cute I love the fabric! Looks great on you!

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  17. Love, love, love this. I have just bought the pattern as a result. Thanks for sharing. Just gorgeous.

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