Simplicity 8014 was definitely on my radar when it was released this past fall. I love shirt dresses and definitely one with a full skirt! Unlike the rest of the free world, the bodice of McCall's 6696 didn't work for me, but I had a good feeling about this one. And, if you know me you know I tend to shun the muslin. So I went to work on standard adjustments.
I take a size 14 for chest measurement; but the finished bust was 39.5". I have a 39.5" bust! I did a 1" FBA to end up with a finished bust of 41.5" (I like a close fit).
I measured and decided to narrow the shoulder 3/8" and did a 5/8" swayback adjustment.
Another standard adjustment for me is adding 1" to the bicep. Well, I measured this pattern piece and the sleeve was exactly the same as the Burda project I'd just sewn. Sweet! Well, that garment was a knit! Oops :) My sleeve is a little snug; I'll make a note to adjust it for next time.
The bane of my existence with sewing this pattern. The pocket. They have you do some convoluted craziness. The pocket attaches up to the waistline and then they have you go back and sew the side seam from waist to large dot. It was so bulky and awkward!
Luckily, I had nice, well behaved cotton that took a press amazingly well!
I selected THIS cotton poplin, totally because of the print. How fun is that?!
I am so happy with the fit I achieved on the bodice! This fabric has no give -- as poplin is a tight, plain weave -- so I feel really good about my fit adjustments!
The fabric is so soft against the skin and the color is really bright and vibrant! I prewashed this in cold water, on the gentle cycle and dried it on medium heat. It was slightly wrinkled when it came out the dryer but it takes a pressing like a champ.
Let's check out the details!
-Front and back has tucks at the waistline
-I chose these soft blue buttons to compliment the print
-I added sleeve tabs with a non-functional button; I just love the sleeve tuck!
-Yoke and flat piping
I was going to add red piping but after doing the sleeve tucks, I decided to do some flat piping out of self fabric. I used bias cut strips that were 1.5" wide and pressed in half. I then used Wonder Tape (greatest stuff on earth) to secure and then sewed the seam. I think it's such a subtle but fun detail!
I've done this kind of sleeve with the tuck and the written instructions always confuse me.
-Traced the line while the sleeve was flat. After sewing the sleeve, I turned up the hem to meet the line and pressed in place.
-Then turned up again, at the traced line, and pressed.
-Stitched on the folded edge - the pattern instructed 1/4" but I went slightly narrower (3/16") to more closely match the flat piping.
-Unfold and press the tuck up into place.
I like it with an actual belt a bit more.
The tie is one of the only aestheic things I'd change; I think it should be a bit wider
When I first attached the skirt and tried it on I was SO frustrated that I'd chosen this fabric + this pattern. I thought it was too whimsical and too '50s and the fabric has some body to it and it felt too poofy and just all around too..."not me".
But once I attached the collar and the buttons and it was finished -- I LOVED it!!! I love the fit, the silhouette, the length - everything. The fabric is so soft and cozy (and between you and I think it would make an amazing pair of the piped pajamas that are trending) and the dress really feels fantastic on.
There's quite a bit of this fabric left: HERE!
Spring is right around the corner, even for the tundra. I'll be ready!