Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Over-sized Full Length Wool Coat


It is no secret... coats, gloves, and the whole concept of laying is just-not-my THING.  Even though, I am originally from NY and now live in MD, somewhere along the way (living in FL) I began to deny winter until it was over.  In many ways, even today, the season I have the least amount of shoes, clothes, and outerwear is Winter.  Who likes winter anyway????

As a means to ramp up group activity and actually make an attempt to own a "functional" piece of outerwear, I began looking for inspiration for wool coats.  I found a great deal of short coats, but came across very few full length coats (light bulb moment).  I wanted something that would be stylish as well as functional for the cold temps.  

The fabric I used for this coat is from Fabric Mart's Melton Wool coating collection (HERE).  The colors I used are no longer available, and I am sure its because the of the awesome 60% off sale that was going on, but there are some great selections that are still left.

In my continued attempt disconnect from the pattern world by improving my draping and pattern making skills, I decided to drape this coat from scratch. 


I began with the front.  Knowing I wanted this coat to be over-sized to accommodate several layers of clothing, I went with a wide sleeve casing.  Because of the size of adjustable dress form, I had to manipulate the placement of the fabric in order to get size desired.  Once I completed the front, I duplicated the sleeve casing on the back and pinned the sides for fitting.  


I didn't cut a large enough piece for the back, so I made notes of how much fabric to add when cutting out the final fabric.  



Once this was completed, I trued up my pattern pieces and cleaned up the lines.  It was then I noticed that I did not have enough fabric to create this coat with the wool facing I wanted.  So I put everything aside and ordered more fabric.  Prior to this development, I had 4 yards of the orange Melton wool.  I decided to order an additional 3 yards of the black Melton wool in order to create a color block.  I decided to go in this direction because well... when have I even stuck to a plan?  

I started off with this....


and ended up with this!


I created notches and duplicated the diagonal separation from the back piece as well.  

Now.... Both front pieces are self lined with contrasting black wool, while the back and sleeves were lined with a double knit that had a lightweight sweater feel to it.  I also faced this lining with the orange wool and added my label :). 




Because I self drafted this coat, I constructed it in the most backwards way possible without ruining the garment as I finagled my way through the entire process.  I marked and adjusted my back pieces to account for a kick pleat and constructed the sleeves last.  








Overall, I am extremely pleased with this coat.  It is super functional and the perfect length for my high heels.  I will definitely be wearing this often (I wore this to work after taking the pics minus the boots).  The only thing I would change is the shoulder width.  I cut it a tad bit too thin, but got away with it because the coat is over-sized.  All I need now is a nice black wool scarf which I will be making from the remnants of this project
.  
Pants: 7 for All Mankind Coated Jeans
Shirt: Generation Love half leather/ half Jersey Shirt
Shoes: YSL boots
Gloves: Isotoner Smart Touch 

Until next time, happy sewing!
Jenese

Comments

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Cool, Summery Cottons

Hello everybody! I set out to see what I could do with a gorgeous stack of mostly one-yard cuts, mostly cotton fabric, paired with some of my favorite tried-and-true patterns, to boost my summer wardrobe. Some days it’s too hot to think, you know? So producing some easy to grab-and-pair pieces to have at the ready will lighten the morning rush and make me feel pulled together as I usher the kiddos off to their activities. I chose some lightweight, mostly woven cotton fabrics that display big impact with their colors and prints, and also sort of (mostly?) go together. It’s not quite a capsule wardrobe, but I was inspired by that coordinating process.  I’ve sewn all of the following patterns (save for one) in the past, so I made some small changes to keep things fresh in the creative process, but these are all pretty true to their intended style..  First up, a Blank Slate Patterns Hathaway Tank with one yard of Golden Yellow/Light Salmon/Amaranth 100% Cotton Floral Print Lawn. This lawn

Made By A Fabricista: Sewing the Saguaro Set

I hope everyone has been enjoying their summer.  I have been all about the bright colors and florals this season.  Never knew I liked florals as much as I do!  When I saw the Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern Company I smelled another matching set in my future.  I also knew that it would be made from a floral fabric.  Off I went on a search for floral fabric on the Fabric Mart site. Sewing the Saguaro Set The Saguaro Set Pattern is a woven top and pants set that is perfect for a lunch date with the girls or for the night out on the town.  The top features a deep V-neck with a tie option and flowy sleeves and an elastic waistband. The pants are wide leg pants with an elastic waistband and draw string. For the top, I made a size Large based on my body measurements and I thought it fit perfectly.  The pattern has an elastic guide but I didn't use it. I just put the elastic around my waist and tightened it until it was comfortable.  This top is very simple to put together and the pattern

Made By A Fabricista: My Summer Dresses

Hello everyone! I am so happy it’s summer; it gives me energy.   I love the sunshine, the warm air, and the flowers that bloom this time of year.  This summer I want new dresses. They need to be comfortable during the summer heat.  They need to easily transition from casual day wear to an elevated evening outfit and look chic whether I am in sneakers, flats, or platform shoes.  I also want one of them will be white because I don’t own a white dress! I saw Vogue V1653 and was immediately taken by its comfortable style and the simplicity of the lapel collar.  I chose View D for its midi length and almost straight skirt.  The side seam pockets was a bonus. I would wear this dress with a sneaker around town or with platform shoes and a belt I already own for dinner with friends.  I selected Fabric Mart’s medium Persian blue 100% linen (SKU# UAA7473r ) to sew this loose-fitting dress. I favored McCall’s M7805 for its close-fitting lined bodice and midi length flared skirt. The button-down f