Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Over-sized Full Length Wool Coat


It is no secret... coats, gloves, and the whole concept of laying is just-not-my THING.  Even though, I am originally from NY and now live in MD, somewhere along the way (living in FL) I began to deny winter until it was over.  In many ways, even today, the season I have the least amount of shoes, clothes, and outerwear is Winter.  Who likes winter anyway????

As a means to ramp up group activity and actually make an attempt to own a "functional" piece of outerwear, I began looking for inspiration for wool coats.  I found a great deal of short coats, but came across very few full length coats (light bulb moment).  I wanted something that would be stylish as well as functional for the cold temps.  

The fabric I used for this coat is from Fabric Mart's Melton Wool coating collection (HERE).  The colors I used are no longer available, and I am sure its because the of the awesome 60% off sale that was going on, but there are some great selections that are still left.

In my continued attempt disconnect from the pattern world by improving my draping and pattern making skills, I decided to drape this coat from scratch. 


I began with the front.  Knowing I wanted this coat to be over-sized to accommodate several layers of clothing, I went with a wide sleeve casing.  Because of the size of adjustable dress form, I had to manipulate the placement of the fabric in order to get size desired.  Once I completed the front, I duplicated the sleeve casing on the back and pinned the sides for fitting.  


I didn't cut a large enough piece for the back, so I made notes of how much fabric to add when cutting out the final fabric.  



Once this was completed, I trued up my pattern pieces and cleaned up the lines.  It was then I noticed that I did not have enough fabric to create this coat with the wool facing I wanted.  So I put everything aside and ordered more fabric.  Prior to this development, I had 4 yards of the orange Melton wool.  I decided to order an additional 3 yards of the black Melton wool in order to create a color block.  I decided to go in this direction because well... when have I even stuck to a plan?  

I started off with this....


and ended up with this!


I created notches and duplicated the diagonal separation from the back piece as well.  

Now.... Both front pieces are self lined with contrasting black wool, while the back and sleeves were lined with a double knit that had a lightweight sweater feel to it.  I also faced this lining with the orange wool and added my label :). 




Because I self drafted this coat, I constructed it in the most backwards way possible without ruining the garment as I finagled my way through the entire process.  I marked and adjusted my back pieces to account for a kick pleat and constructed the sleeves last.  








Overall, I am extremely pleased with this coat.  It is super functional and the perfect length for my high heels.  I will definitely be wearing this often (I wore this to work after taking the pics minus the boots).  The only thing I would change is the shoulder width.  I cut it a tad bit too thin, but got away with it because the coat is over-sized.  All I need now is a nice black wool scarf which I will be making from the remnants of this project
.  
Pants: 7 for All Mankind Coated Jeans
Shirt: Generation Love half leather/ half Jersey Shirt
Shoes: YSL boots
Gloves: Isotoner Smart Touch 

Until next time, happy sewing!
Jenese

Comments

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made by a Fabricista: Summer Dreaming

 Summer Dreaming | A Tropical Faux Jumpsuit and Sheer Ruffled Duster I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of spring with its promise of warmer temps and lots of sunshine.  Anyone else? With that in mind, I choose to showcase two of the fabulous shirting fabrics offered by Fabric Mart Fabrics. The combination of the semi-sheer shirting with the tropical print shirting has me dreaming of walking along a beach with the waves gently lapping against the shoreline and the sun shining brightly down on me. The coral shirting is a beautiful piece of fabric with its hint of shimmer and tiny stripes alternating between opaque and sheer.  I choose to sew a tiered maxi-length button front dress using Simplicity 9114.  Because of the semi-sheer nature of the fabric, I will wear this as a duster. If you’ve shied away from sewing sheers for fear of the difficulties you may face, this type of fabric is the perfect way to start!  Because it is a cotton/nylon blend it was easier to sew than a silky chiffon

Made by a Fabricista: Coming Up Roses

 From vision to reality. As we are headed into April, I can feel the spring breeze on the horizon and with that means fun time outside, be it eating brunch with friends on a terrace or going to the park on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.  I knew that I wanted to add some bright fun color into my spring wardrobe that I really haven't used and over a year.  I had been eyeing this beautiful red stripe shirting with blue roses fabric for a while not knowing exactly what I wanted to do with it but knew that I was super drawn to it.   Once I picked it up, I decided to sketch out my ideas and went through my pattern stash to see what I could come up with. For this project I used a vintage pattern See & Sew 5549.  It’s actually for a long sleep shirt that I then made some alterations to.  I lengthened the sleeves by an inch and extended the side slits up to the waistline because I knew that I would mostly be wearing this shirt open.  Also since I planned to wear it mostly open I only did

Made by a Fabricista: Use Those Views! Sewing the Grainline Studio Willow Tank

Spring is here! Honestly, I'm still bundled up in sweatshirts most of the time, but the afternoons are getting glorious and warm and just a t-shirt will suffice for a couple of hours in the warmth on some days so I know the overwhelming heat is not far off. I love planning and organizing in all facets of my life, and spring garments for my wardrobe are on my mind. Naturally tanks are at the forefront of my strategizing for comfort in hot weather and I wanted to branch out with a little something new.  Anyone else have patterns that they've been eyeing for ages but haven't pulled the trigger? Who knows why I've kept putting off sewing the Grainline Studio Willow Tank . I've long admired the simple lines and I'm absolutely sure it would fit into my overall style. I've even tried drafting something similar myself with varying degrees of success, but never quite on the nose. A simple tank can go with just about everything from jeans to skirts to a high-waisted a