Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Ready for Cocktail Hour


I’m ready for cocktail hour! This is the Belladone dress from Deer and Doe Patterns. It has been in my
pattern stash for a long time. I recently made two versions. This one is my Fabric Mart make. When I
first made this dress I didn’t think of any decade it could have looked like it came from. However, when
people saw the first version they commented it had a very Jackie O feel to it. So I thought “well, I'm
going to have to make a version for cocktail hour”. And here it is. This dress has very structured style
lines and I am here for it! From the structured bodice to the bell shaped skirt with perfectly placed
pleats. It is made of this lovely brocade that has a little simmer taking it up a level.


Deer and Doe Patterns have wonderful instructions. Even though I did a lot of extras on the inside the
dress itself is quite simple to make. There are two versions you can make. View A has the cut out in the
back and View B give a more covered look with no cutout. With most of my dresses I start with a Full
Bust Adjustment. Deer and Doe Patterns come drafted for a C cup for reference. I like people to know
what cup size they are working with before starting a pattern so they can get a great fit! Part of doing
the FBA involved lowering the dart as well. That is always something to take into account when fitting
for the bust as you want the dart to point toward your apex. I also lengthened the dress as I like my
dresses hitting at my knee. I did opt not to do the hem facing and just did a simple narrow hem.




When I start a new project I like to sometimes work with a new type of fabric or learn a new technique.
So to construct this dress I decided it needed an underlining or also known as a flat lining. What is an
underlining you say? Isn’t it just the same thing as a lining? Not totally. This is a quote taken from the
book, Hi-Fashion Sewing and Tailoring By Helen S. Jones “Underlinings and linings are often confused, they’re both shape retainers….but underlinings are “shape builders”. A lining is a separate second garment that is made and hangs inside the fashion fabric. An underlining is lining fabric that gets sewn into the seams of the main fashion fabric. Basically you cut your fashion fabric and lining fabrics pieces and then you sew the lining fabric directly onto the fashion fabric making them one new pattern piece. Then you sew the garment as you would according to the instructions. This was my first time doing an underlining and this technique really gave the dress more of a couture feel to me. I finished the inside with French Seams as well. I love a good finish on the inside of my makes!


This is really a sophisticated style dress. When applying the underlining technique this dress definitely
got the shape it needed to stand up to this brocade. The finishes on the inside also perfectly match the
structure of the outside. I am so pleased that I was able to make it in such a gorgeous fabric from Fabric
Mart!

I hope that this inspires you to try to take your sewing to the next level no matter what skill set you
have. As always you may contact me on Instagram or Tiktok if you have questions. I love to help people learn new tricks for their sewing!



HANNAH   @modistrasews


Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following category, BROCADE.
You can also shop our selection of Deer & Doe Patterns HERE.

Comments

  1. Wow! Meticulously fitted and sewn.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Love it! What a great use for a lovely fabric. You look fantastic! Great construction techniques too,

    ReplyDelete
  3. Wow!! Beautiful fit, I love it.

    ReplyDelete
  4. This is a beautiful and well fitted garment.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Beautiful fit of a very lovely fabric. Great shoes too!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made by a Fabricista: A Wardrobe Staple for Spring - A Denim Coat

Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Sharon with Sharon Sews with my latest Fabricista make – a denim coat  for spring.  Denim is a wardrobe staple for many of us, and even more so this year with denim on denim looks coming back in style.  The denim I used is a medium weight cotton/lycra blend with about a 20% stretch selvage to selvage.  Fabric Mart always does an amazing job photographing and describing their fabrics, yet I still gasped in delight when I opened the package containing my denim.  It was even better than I had anticipated. This fabric would have worked well for a traditional denim jacket – one with button front closure, chest pockets with flaps, and a collar.   However, I have wanted to sew this open front coat with kimono inspired sleeves and big patch pockets since February 2021.  I saw it in that month’s  BurdaStyle Magazine, bookmarked the page, and promptly forgot about the coat.  It’s coat #105 if you’re interested in sewing one for yourself. Fortunately, I went on an organ

Made by a Fabricista: Revving up your style in the Dana Marie Moto Jacket

Hey friends - I am so excited to have been invited to participate as a Fabric Mart Fabricista this month!  This year is the year I challenge my sewing skills.   I have wanted a moto jacket for some time.  Not just any moto jacket but one that has a classic and timeless style. I saw the Dana Marie Moto Jacket pattern on the Fabric Mart website and knew that was the one.  The fabric I used was a beautiful porcelain white/black/silver 100% polyester plaid weave boucle suiting.    Remember when I said I wanted to challenge my sewing skills?  😉 This fabric was beautiful but fragile to work with.  It was a great mental challenge that had me problem solving before sewing to avoid any potential problems.  I first traced out the pattern onto tissue paper to determine the fit.   I used scrap cotton fabric to sew up a “practice run” of the jacket.    I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the jacket comes together.   I sewed up the muslin in one evening.  It was time to cut into the beautifu

Made By A Fabricista: My Version of the Infamous DVF Wrap Dress

Just in case you are not aware, the iconic Diane Fustenberg wrap dress has turned 50 this year.  In celebration, Vogue has re-released the DVF Wrap Dress pattern, which now comes in extended sizes.  This dress is so classic and fits many different body types.  I got a hold of this pattern and decided this would be my birthday dress this year. This pattern is categorized as a Very Easy Vogue pattern, and I would have to agree with that. Wrap dresses are usually relatively simple to put together since there aren’t that many pattern pieces to sew together. I made View A in a size 22 and the only modification I made was to shorten the hem by 6 inches.  I will say that since I used a Ponte Knit , I could have gone down to a size 20.  I didn’t read the fabric suggestions before picking my fabric.  I’ve always remembered seeing the DVF Wrap dress in knits. After reviewing the fabric suggestions, they do say that you can use soft fabrics, like a Challis or a Chambray. As I mentioned, I’ve alwa