Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Bias’d for Plaid

Hello everyone!  It’s Sharon back with my second Fabricista post!  This time I chose to work with a lovely soft pastel plaid shirting fabric. 

The big shirt trend has been popular for a season or two and, according to recent fashion articles I’ve read, it will remain popular throughout the summer.

This lightweight fabric, a cotton/polyester blend, had the structure to work beautifully as an oversized shirt. I don’t typically wear classic button front shirts, so of course I choose to sew one with a little “extra”! 

Vogue 1744 looks like a tailored button front shirt from the front, but the pleated back provides interest and movement. By the way, this pattern was rebranded in 2020, and had been previously released as Vogue 9360. I sewed View D, the mandarin collar option, with short sleeves and hi-low hem.  

This particular plaid is an uneven plaid. If you’re unsure whether your plaid is even or uneven, here’s how to test (according to my Vogue Sewing Book c. 1975). "Fold the fabric diagonally through the center of any repeat, making sure the plaid is perfectly on grain. If spaces and colors match, test further by folding the plaid vertically or horizontally though the center of any repeat. In an even plaid the spaces and colors match in both directions. In an uneven plaid the spaces and colors do not match in both directions.”

Since I was working with a plaid, I cut my pattern pieces face-up on the right side of a single layer of fabric. Because this was an uneven plaid, I used a one-way layout.  I was careful to match my stitching lines, not my cutting lines. 

I choose to match the plaids horizontally so when the shirt was buttoned the horizontal line would be unbroken. 

I cut the pleated back on the bias and added an overlay of lace on the back yoke.  The bias doesn’t have to match at the side seams, and lace distracts the eye enough that the plaid doesn't need to be matched at the shoulder or armhole seam.  My hair is long enough that the yoke is covered when I wear the shirt, but I pulled my hair forward so you can see the yoke. Both of those are little tricks I use when I don’t want to spend a lot of time matching the plaid on my pattern pieces, ha-ha.

I pre-washed and dried the fabric, as I do with every fabric purchase, and it came out of the dryer perfectly. I love that I won’t need to iron this shirt.

I used a narrow three-thread stitch on my serger to finish all of the seams, and also to finish the bottom edge before turning under and stitching in place.   

The beauty of this big shirt is I can pair it with jeans, white pants, or add a cardi and wear it open like a cardigan.  It’s the perfect button front shirt for summer!

SHARON  @thesharonsews


Unfortunately Fabric Mart Fabrics sell out quickly!
You can find similar fabrics by shopping the following category SHIRTING.

Comments

  1. Wow! I love this shirt. And your ideas for the back view are such a simple way to solve a problem that I am surprised that RTW hasn’t copied it. I especially love the idea of lace on the yoke and who doesn’t love plaid on the bias. Again, WOW! I love this shirt. It looks great on you. Thanks for sharing your inspiration.

    ReplyDelete
  2. That’s a beautiful shirt! I never would have thought of making something like that.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: ITY Dress

Hi sewing friends - Andrea here from Happy.Things.Here over on Insta with this week’s post – I’m sharing about a favorite fabric and pattern today!  So… the last two months have almost gotten the best of me. We made a somewhat unplanned decision to move homes and life has been just insanely busy and hard to find time to sew. But sewing  is such a joy and a stress reliever for me, so I fit in this fun and easy sew amidst the chaos and it made me sew very happy! Sneak peek – how could this print NOT make someone happy? First, let’s talk fabric. ITY , or Interlock Twist Yarn, is one of my all-time favorite fabrics for sewing clothing. Fabric Mart did an Instagram post with a video on this fabric and I highly recommend you check it out if this fabric is new to you. Three things I love about ITY – 1) it’s easy to care for and rarely wrinkles, 2) it’s easy to wear, great for drapey pieces, and works all year long, and 3) Fabric Mart gets great deadstock prints and colors from fashion design

Made By A Fabricista: Summer Separates in White Eyelet

To me, eyelet fabric suggests warm weather and sunshine.  I can envision myself sipping lemonade, while swaying on a porch swing with a gentle summer breeze on my face, all while wearing a lovely eyelet dress.  Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Sharon with Sharon Sews here sharing my latest Fabricista make with you.  This time I sewed some separates using a summer staple, eyelet fabric.   A quick search online revealed eyelet being used in more than just dresses this season, ranging from romantic dresses to flirty tops to wide-leg pants and matching camp shirts.  I even saw a man’s white eyelet top on a high-end shirt designer’s website.  There are so many options for using eyelet fabric, but I liked the look of eyelet pants with a matching top. Both fabrics were designer fabrics – I LOVE that section on the website! A white 100% cotton geometric floral embroidered eyelet lawn, and a baby pink/white 100% cotton embroidered pinwheel floral voile.  Both are so, so lovely!  I also took advantage

Made By A Fabricista: Breezy Summer Style with Rayon Challis from Fabric Mart.

Hey there my sewing friends!  Summer is here and I am all for it.  It has been exceptionally hot here in Southwest Florida. We have had temps in the high 90’s.  I want to keep cool and comfortable and still look pulled together this summer.  That’s why I chose rayon challis for this month’s summer make.   Rayon Challis is lightweight, flowy, soft and extremely comfortable to wear. It’s an excellent choice for summer outfits.  It has a beautiful drape making it an excellent choice for maxis, tops, dresses, and shorts. The fabric is lightweight and depending upon your sewing project you may need to use a lining with this fabric. Also use a lightweight interfacing when working with rayon challis.  If you are a beginner at sewing, you may find the fabric a bit fiddly to work with, but the end result is so worth it.  Fabric Mart has beautiful challis fabric to choose from. I chose this fun tropical print on an off-white background. This summer season vests are in.  I love the ease of wearin