Made By A Fabricista: Chalk and Notch Wren Dress: My Buffet dress for the Christmas season!

 

I recently sewed the Chalk and Notch Wren dress using a beautifully soft black voile from Fabric Mart, and it turned into such a satisfying, enjoyable project. The pattern itself is very easy to understand and straightforward with clear instructions, intuitive construction, and a relaxed fit that makes the sewing process easy. A buffet dress in the sewing community is a dress that is loose fitting, so you can eat at the buffet without your dress being uncomfortable afterwards, lol!

Because the voile I chose is extremely thin and transparent, I opted to line the bodice and first tier. Adding a lining not only provided modesty but also gave the delicate fabric a bit more stability, especially around the neckline and button placket. A helpful tip when sewing a lining into a lightweight bodice is to treat the lining and the main fabric as one. I sewed the bodice as you would for a lined bodice, and the first tier I sewed the pieces together with a basting stitch to make the process easier. I used French seams throughout or enclosed the seams in the bodice as this fabric did fray a little more than typical cotton since the weave is so open and loose.  Pressing lightly and using a pressing cloth  and lower heat keeps the voile from scorching or distorting. I always press on the wrong side to accidentally damage my fabric. This fabric was delicate, and I was glad I did that.

To personalize the pattern, I swapped the standard skirt for a tiered, gathered version. The gathering pairs beautifully with the airy nature of the voile, and it adds a subtle swish to the oversized silhouette. Over the Summer I purchased a dress that has 3 long tiers and love wearing that dress so I wanted to replicate that skirt in this dress. I also chose the long sleeves but skipped the original cuff. Instead, I created an elastic channel and added a small bow at each wrist. This simple change keeps the look soft and feminine while giving the sleeves a gentle, blousy finish.

Sewing with voile requires a bit of patience, as the fabric can be slippery and very delicate. This fabric is solid color so it was very forgiving, a printed fabric would be more challenging to prevent distortion during cutting and sewing. A few things that helped:

• Using a very fine NEW needle, like a 70/10 Microtex, to avoid snags.

• Lowering the presser foot pressure so the fabric doesn’t shift or ripple. This happened a lot and I had to unpick a lot. It made fine holes in the fabric so be extra careful and take your time. I did a few zig zag stitches on the small holes to repair the holes. 

• Stabilizing edges with a narrow strip of lightweight interfacing or stay-stitching to prevent stretching, especially along curves. This is always a good practice in any construction process. 

• Cutting with pattern weights instead of pins to avoid distorting the pieces.

To complement the sheer, refined fabric, I finished the entire dress with French seams. They take a bit more time, but with delicate materials they make such a difference—no fraying, no loose threads, just beautifully enclosed seams that look as pretty on the inside as the outside. 

For the buttons, I used a collection of brown ones that are all slightly different but harmonize well together. They add character without distracting from the flow of the dress. And as a personal touch, I stitched in a label that reads “P.S. I love you”—a little reminder of how sewing is a way I show myself love and self care. I also included a picture of how I draw out my button placement with soap. It is easily seen on black fabric, it washes away first wash or with a damp cloth and it doesn’t disappear like chalk can. <My grandmother May Belle taught me this as a small child and I still do this to this day. Those small pieces of soap with sharp edges that are too small to use to wash your hands come in handy!

The finished dress is oversized, floaty, and wonderfully breathable. With its transparency, I’ll be wearing it over a black slip, which works perfectly with the silhouette. Overall, the project was an absolute pleasure from start to finish. The Chalk and Notch Wren is a thoughtfully designed pattern, easy to sew, enjoyable to customize, and one I’d definitely make again. Please follow me @Hoppaheedahoe and tag me if you make the wren dress or top.

Patricia  |  @Hoppaheedahoe