Hello again, sewing friends! It seems we have arrived yet again in the grandest season for layering, all this oncoming cold weather. I like ending the year with something warm and very useful. Seems based on my past Fabricista posts, I love to sew year-end outerwear, and this round is no different!
I challenged myself with a new lined coat (wait, jacket? Coat? I feel like the presence of wool changes things?). Anyhoo, since the lovely Chalk & Notch Den Jacket has been in my queue, I proceeded ahead. I like the large pockets, the option to line or not, and the extra bodice and sleeve seams for topstitching.
Sewing this coat is not at all difficult, but the many pieces and loads of topstitching will take a bit of time. My version took me a few multiple-hour sessions to complete. I sewed a size 2, which matches my measurements, and I made no alterations. Hint: for a quick size test, just employ the lining pieces.
Gorgeous, muted blue as a soft wool flannel? This is the stuff my sewist dreams are made of. I landed on this excellent outer weight wool, and while it looks as neutral and classic as a denim jacket, it’s so much heavier and warmer. I chose a slightly lighter blue topstitching thread to highlight all the details and keep things interesting. This fabric gets high marks for steam-pressing fantastically and hardly fraying whatsoever.
For additional warmth, I chose a flannel lining for the bodice, though the Pongee would work equally well here. I love that fun design choice! I landed on this beautiful yarn-dyed cotton flannel, mostly because of the gorgeous claret pink shade. Honestly, it’s always really hard for me to narrow down the secret inside fabric and Fabric Mart has loads of options that would work wonderfully if you want to designate an afternoon to heading down that rabbit hole.
I lined the big pockets with flannel for extra warmth, too. This is not included in the pattern, but all you need to do is cut out two mirrored pocket pieces from your lining fabric and then layer them on the wrong side of your outer fabric pocket pieces, then treat each doubled pocket as a single piece.
I wanted something very smooth and silky for the sleeves so my arms can effortlessly glide right in whether I’m wearing something textured like a sweater or just a tee. This Pongee lining is just the ticket, and is classic for jacket lining. I was trying to be a little subdued and coordinate with the flannel bodice lining, but there are so many bright, fun lining fabrics available! Sometimes I think that selecting and playing around with coordinating fabric possibilities is half the fun of a sewing project.
Oh, and the sleeve actually features a facing so you can cuff them if you wish!
I simply could not resist a little flair. I added a couple of tiny patches to the front pocket from my stash, along with a tag on the back facing. I’m very determined to use some of the darling little notions I’ve hoarded for far too long. I even added the hanging loop at the back although this garment will probably never see a coat rack–it’s just the idea of including every possible detail that thrills me.
This project is highly satisfying and if you’re in need of a jacket, I can absolutely recommend this pattern. Beautiful fit and wonderful instructions. Mine is fantastic, and I cannot wait to begin wearing this new coat immediately.
I wish you all a glorious, warm, and relaxing remainder of 2025!
Happy sewing!
KATIE | @kak513
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