Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Minoru Jacket Part One - Adding a Front Pocket

I had the opportunity to take a few days off during the holidays and my top priority was to do some sewing! It felt great to get in front of my sewing machine again! I had just been serviced a week before and it sewed like a breeze. One of the patterns I wanted to try was Sewaholic's Minoru Jacket. I had Fabric Mart's Charcoal Organic Cotton Twill in mind for this jacket along with a cotton print from Marc Jacobs (no longer available) and the teal pongee lining. This was my first Sewaholic pattern but was excited to give it a try. I was drawn to it because of the RTW look of this jacket. Many of the seams are top-stitched (which I love!) and elastic is inserted in the back of the jacket cinching the waist.


The directions were clear and pictures easy to understand as well. The basic jacket is constructed in the first few steps, so once you have the fit, you can focus on the details that this jacket has.

I made a few of my own additions including front pockets and a lined hood. This post will include the front pocket tutorial. (Stay tuned for a post about the lined hood!)

Front Pocket Modification:

I really like having pockets in my jackets. I carry a purse, but I like to have my phone at my fingertips, not stuck at the bottom of my purse! I browsed around to web to see what other people were doing. I saw a front pocket adaption on pinterest, but they did not blog about it. So I thought I would!

Before I started sewing, I had to construct the pockets. I tested the pocket out on my muslin to get a good idea of placement. I researched similar pockets found in RTW and drew the placement on the muslin. (See the yellow line?) The slope begins center front, just below the waist and ends at the hip.



I took some pattern paper and traced the pocket pattern directly from the muslin. Of course I tested the pocket on the muslin first, but once I had it right, I cut two pieces out of the twill, making sure you have pockets going in different directions.



Since I am lining the hood (I will explain later), I wanted to accent the front of the jacket with the pretty lining too. I cut 1 1/4" bias strips to go along the top of the pocket. Using a 3/8" seam allowance, I sewed the bias strip to the top of the pocket, right sides together. 



Then I pressed the seam allowance toward the bias strip, followed by pressing down 3/8" along the raw edge of the bias strip. 



I wanted to make the bias strip look like piping, so from the back of the pocket, I folded the bias strip almost in half, allowing about 3/16" peak through to the front of the jacket. 

 


Then I top-stitched the bias strip, adding yet just another RTW touch. Baste the pocket to the jacket front and finish the jacket like normal.

(Top-stitching over piping.)


(Finished top-stitching.)

I added some stitching to the sides of the pockets to reinforce them. I used a compacted zig-zag stitch.



Now lay out the pockets on your front jacket pieces. You want to make sure the piping meets at the same place along the zipper front. 



Sew the rest of the jacket per directions. When hemming the jacket, you will notice some extra bulk because of the extra layer you created with the pocket. I cut off the bottom of the front piece to minimize the bulk. The hem is top-stitched on this jacket, therefore the top-stitching creates a bottom to your pocket. Stay tuned for a tutorial on a lined hood and finished garment pictures! 

~Julie

Comments

  1. I'm interested to see the finished garment. It looks to me like you're doing pockets all across the front, from the side seam all the way to the zipper, and slanted up toward the center? What an utterly cool design!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is being done on the front of the jacket. I will be posting a finished picture in a few days!

      Delete
    2. I can't wait to see the finished project. How inspirational!

      Delete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Completing My Handmade Cruise Capsule

I was lucky to go on a weekend cruise to the Bahamas with my husband! For the occasion, and for this April post, I initially planned on doing two versions of the Wanda Wrap Dress: a colorful sleeveless one for daytime excursions and a darker mid-sleeved one for nighttime outings. Thankfully, I did the black one first and realized I preferred to sew something else with the other fabric. Why? Indeed, the dress is very comfortable to wear. It is flowy, elegant and a good option for day or night, depending on the chosen fabric. But, with its six panels full skirt, its faux-wrap top, and its extended waistband, this dress took almost two yards of fabric to make, even in a small size! With this jersey knit elastic fabric, it ended up being bulky and heavy to pack. Knowing I am used to traveling with very minimal luggage (backpack forever!), bulkiness and weight do not work for me. I will wear this in Miami, but it won’t travel much with me in the future.  Also, making the Wanda Dress wasn’t

Made By A Fabricista: Spring Ahead

Happy Spring!  We have finally made it into my favorite season which happens to also be my birthday season.  I feel like the New Year really starts in the spring season as everything comes back alive, and we all feel refreshed. So, for this post I created two separate looks to encompass my spring vibes. This first look I dared myself to create a look using two different prints.  I don’t work with prints often, but I had been really inspired lately by fellow Fabricista Marcia (keechiibstyle) who just has a magical way with mixing her prints. For this I used two different print jersey knits of 2yds each and McCall’s Pattern M8238 which allows for easy color blocking but in this case print mixing.  The fabric requirements call for a 2 way stretch but this knit worked just fine for the pattern. I love the contrast between the two prints.  This is the perfect spring style but can also but transitioned into summer as well. I did view C which had a high slit in the center.  Initially I planne

Made By A Fabricista: Summer Brunch looks just in time for Mother’s Day

Happy First Friday of May! I am truly excited that I have 22 more work days left before the summer break.  This school year has been a roller coaster ride and I have enjoyed some high moments and dealt with some low ones in between.  I wanted to start my summer looks early and decided to focus on looks I can wear when I visit Jamaica or other tropical places. These looks made are both great for Sunday brunch as well. This set is my first faux romper for this year and I love the fact that I can rock it as separates. When I came across this yellow graphite gray polyester fabric , I knew it was perfect for summer.  To top it off, I found the perfect matching earring from Purple Paradise Studio in lime (Rise stud in lime) and knew I wanted a chic summer faux romper set.  I decided to hack  McCalls 7943 dress pattern and create another top.  I have made it several times as I truly love it and plan to use this pattern as one of the beginner patterns for my summer sewing class. I have made it