Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Minoru Jacket Part One - Adding a Front Pocket

I had the opportunity to take a few days off during the holidays and my top priority was to do some sewing! It felt great to get in front of my sewing machine again! I had just been serviced a week before and it sewed like a breeze. One of the patterns I wanted to try was Sewaholic's Minoru Jacket. I had Fabric Mart's Charcoal Organic Cotton Twill in mind for this jacket along with a cotton print from Marc Jacobs (no longer available) and the teal pongee lining. This was my first Sewaholic pattern but was excited to give it a try. I was drawn to it because of the RTW look of this jacket. Many of the seams are top-stitched (which I love!) and elastic is inserted in the back of the jacket cinching the waist.


The directions were clear and pictures easy to understand as well. The basic jacket is constructed in the first few steps, so once you have the fit, you can focus on the details that this jacket has.

I made a few of my own additions including front pockets and a lined hood. This post will include the front pocket tutorial. (Stay tuned for a post about the lined hood!)

Front Pocket Modification:

I really like having pockets in my jackets. I carry a purse, but I like to have my phone at my fingertips, not stuck at the bottom of my purse! I browsed around to web to see what other people were doing. I saw a front pocket adaption on pinterest, but they did not blog about it. So I thought I would!

Before I started sewing, I had to construct the pockets. I tested the pocket out on my muslin to get a good idea of placement. I researched similar pockets found in RTW and drew the placement on the muslin. (See the yellow line?) The slope begins center front, just below the waist and ends at the hip.



I took some pattern paper and traced the pocket pattern directly from the muslin. Of course I tested the pocket on the muslin first, but once I had it right, I cut two pieces out of the twill, making sure you have pockets going in different directions.



Since I am lining the hood (I will explain later), I wanted to accent the front of the jacket with the pretty lining too. I cut 1 1/4" bias strips to go along the top of the pocket. Using a 3/8" seam allowance, I sewed the bias strip to the top of the pocket, right sides together. 



Then I pressed the seam allowance toward the bias strip, followed by pressing down 3/8" along the raw edge of the bias strip. 



I wanted to make the bias strip look like piping, so from the back of the pocket, I folded the bias strip almost in half, allowing about 3/16" peak through to the front of the jacket. 

 


Then I top-stitched the bias strip, adding yet just another RTW touch. Baste the pocket to the jacket front and finish the jacket like normal.

(Top-stitching over piping.)


(Finished top-stitching.)

I added some stitching to the sides of the pockets to reinforce them. I used a compacted zig-zag stitch.



Now lay out the pockets on your front jacket pieces. You want to make sure the piping meets at the same place along the zipper front. 



Sew the rest of the jacket per directions. When hemming the jacket, you will notice some extra bulk because of the extra layer you created with the pocket. I cut off the bottom of the front piece to minimize the bulk. The hem is top-stitched on this jacket, therefore the top-stitching creates a bottom to your pocket. Stay tuned for a tutorial on a lined hood and finished garment pictures! 

~Julie

Comments

  1. I'm interested to see the finished garment. It looks to me like you're doing pockets all across the front, from the side seam all the way to the zipper, and slanted up toward the center? What an utterly cool design!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is being done on the front of the jacket. I will be posting a finished picture in a few days!

      Delete
    2. I can't wait to see the finished project. How inspirational!

      Delete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Speaking My Truth

Happy Saturday All! In these unsettling times, I hug my children a little tighter, spend quality time embracing them, and cherish every moment even more. This pandemic has allowed me to appreciate deep conversations about racial injustice, police brutality, and their feelings about growing up black.
My daughter Arielle, a happy go lucky child, shuns away as she is always being questioned about her race and which box she checks off on an application. She hates the fact that she is consistently asked by her peers and teachers at school if she is biracial, Hispanic, or Black. She has often times questioned her own identity, yet she gladly responds to anyone who asks, “ I am black and I am a part of the human race”.

My son despises the news media (especially social media) and doesn't watch it at all. The death of his older brother and guns triggers a fear that we pray he overcomes. Over the past few weeks, I have read some of the most unreal remarks and comments about "all lives ma…

Made by a Fabricista: Summer Time Blues

Hello again and happy July!  In April, I started sewing a work wardrobe in red and black, and I decided to expand that work wardrobe to include blue and white.  I just love the combination of blue and white especially in the summer!  For my work wardrobe, I want fabrics that do not wrinkle easily, can be laundered, and can mix and match with other fabrics.   I ordered several coordinating fabrics- a white ponte, a blue chiffon print, a blue geometric crepe de chine, and a blue double weave suiting.  Most of these are still available as I write this, but are in the 60-70% off categories, so if you like any, I would order soon!



Have you ever used a Burda Style pattern magazine?  I used to always subscribe the Burda Plus magazine which is for larger sizes, but they stopped making it in English and I stopped my subscription.  I missed it so much, that I took a chance and ordered it in French directly from France on burdastyle.fr.  It wasn't expensive- about $15 total including the po…