Skip to main content

Reader's Pick Sew-Along #3 - Bodice Facing and Finishing

We're moving along nicely in the sew-along and next we are working on the collar and neckline. If you are not putting a collar on your dress, skip to the neckline facing step. We'll see you there!

Collar: The collar needs to be stabilized with some interfacing. First you want to start with an interfacing suitable for knits. I wrote a post on interfacing last year, check it out here. Sew the collar pieces, right sides together. Clip corners and turn face out. Use a point turner to push out the collar points. 



The directions tell you to under-stitch the collar facing. To be honest with you, I tried to, but was unsuccessful! I don't feel this step is necessary, especially since you're going to be top-stitching the collar piece. Did anyone successfully under-stitch the collar facing? What do you think the reasoning behind this was? I could see it being helpful for stability, but the top stitching was good enough for me. When I top-stitched, I did that first, then I put in the basting stitches because in the past when I've done the basting stitch, then top-stitching, I get a pucker at the end of my top-stitching, which makes it look really unprofessional! 

Stitch the collar on the bodice, with the facing side down. 



Neckline facing: In reading reviews about this pattern, gaping of the neckline was a hot topic. The gaping neckline is almost bound to happen with patterns like this. I think it also depends on your body type. If you have the bust to fill it out, you may be able to get away with it more than someone with a small bust. It also depends on where you let the bodice pieces lay on you. If you look through Pattern Review at the photos people have posted, you can see how some have the neckline fold up higher on them than others. Some actually have the bodice pieces under their bust. 

If you find that you have a gaping neckline, I would recommend a couple fixes. When sewing the side seams on your bodice, give the front bodice more seam allowance than the back. It's like you're pulling the front bodice closer to you. As I was thinking of another solution, I thought you may be able to bring up the shoulder seam. But realized this step could only be done if you are not attaching your collar. It could still be done, you just have to place the collar differently. Just be careful you don't bring it up too much because you don't want large shoulders! And if you do it on one side, do it on the other. You don't want to be lop-sided either!

Ok, now that we've figured out how to fix a gaping neckline, lets work on the neckline! The directions tell you to fold the facing in half and stitch all layers to the bodice. Another option some of you may choose is to stitch one side of the facing to the bodice, then encase your seam in the facing. There could be a reason they didn't tell you to do that and maybe it has to do with the gaping. The exposed seam may give the neckline a little more stability, therefore creating less of a gape. 



Top-stitch the facing down so that the facing does not flip out!



Finished neckline!



While doing some research on this pattern, I came across a fun take on the neckline. Rachel from House of Pinheiro used a print and solid combo to create a really cute dress! The solid knit was used in the bodice and the print was used in the skirt and neck facing. I love the solid/print contrast! Plus she changed out the skirt for a circle skirt. I think I'm going to give that a try! 

Once your neckline is attached, lap over the right front bodice over the left and baste. I would also recommend basting the bottom along the notched edge. You will thank me later! And lastly, stitch the side seams together! 

Try it on. See how it fits. Show us your progress on Flickr


Have a great weekend and happy sewing! I'll check back periodically if anyone has a sewing crisis!

~ Julie

Comments

  1. I love that print/solid combo too, it's so pretty! I might have to try that one later!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made by a Fabricista: Spring is for Shirtdress

I love shirt dresses! My pattern collection reflects this (I may or may not have eight shirt dress patterns) but somehow my closet does not. I have just two DIY shirt dresses (Mimi G's Katie dress and Simplicity 8546) and maybe two RTW versions. So it's high time that I added some to my wardrobe.


This polyester blouse weight twill by Milly has the perfect weight and drape for a relaxed shirt dress. If you prefer a more structured look, stick to a cotton shirting or light weight sateen. I loved this fabric and print so much that I grabbed both colorways. Unfortunately this fabric is sold out, but you can browse other shirtings and blouse weight fabrics here.


This fabric has a somewhat slinky feel, but isn't truly slippery. There's also a slight sheen without being shiny like a satin. It was easy to cut and sew, but I did get a few snags when pinning so make sure you use sharp pins and a fresh machine needle. I serged my pieces before assembling the pattern because as m…

Fabricista Guest Post: "Julie's Picks" Goes to the Opera

Hello, fellow fabric enthusiasts and sewers alike ! My name is Mary Martha and I am thrilled to be presenting a guest post for Fabric Mart's Fabricista blog. As a bit of background, I fell madly in love with opera in 2015 when I attended my first performance in a movie theater as part of the Metropolitan Opera's "Live in HD" simulcasts, which projects live staged operas in New York City into cinemas worldwide via satellite. (They're fantastic !) Since the start, I have dressed the part of the characters when attending these performances, beginning with outfits fashioned from scarves and skirts in my mother's closet to more ornate costumes. It was during this time that I taught myself to sew using a sewing machine and I haven't looked back ─ my life was changed forever !
In December 2018, I subscribed to Julie's Picks swatch club as an educational experience: I wanted to expand my knowledge of different fabrics besides the typical polyester satins I h…