Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: Luscious Linen Culottes

Do you wear linen?  I never did until a few years ago when I bought a long sleeved linen shirt for gardening.  I would alternate wearing it and a cotton chambray shirt when I worked outside, and I quickly noticed that the linen shirt didn't smell as much, or get as dirty as the chambray shirt did.  It also didn't seem as hot to wear.


What I had figured out, was something known for centuries by people in hot climates. Linen is naturally resistant to bacteria (thus cutting down on odor), dirt repellant, as well as both absorbent  and quick-drying! It also has a naturally high SPF factor, high luster, and strong, long-lasting fibers.  And the cooling factor? I read that studies have shown that skin temperature can be lowered 2-3 degrees when wearing linen clothing, compared to wearing cotton clothing!


It does have one drawback, and that drawback may be a deal breaker for some people- it wrinkles like crazy.  Just sit down once, and you will start to see lines wherever the fabric bent.  I like to look at the wrinkles as just a "design element" and as a way to tell real linen from the imposters.  It's a good idea to not tumble dry your linen bone dry, to make it a little easier to release the wrinkles from when it comes out of the dryer.


Linen comes in all colors, varying thicknesses and weaves.  For this outfit, I used three pieces of linen- all from Fabric Mart's incredible linen selections.  The pants were a lightweight soft blue/grey/green plaid, the top is a lightweight bright mint green, and the shrug is a tissue weight silver knit from last year. 

The culottes are from Hot Patterns "Camera-Ready Culottes" pattern.  I had made a muslin of them a few weeks ago, and had worn them out a couple of times to get a feel for whether or not I wanted to use this extra nice linen in this pattern. The pant leg was super wide, and I did feel a little clown-like in them, so when I made them in the linen, I reduced the leg circumference by about 6" per leg. They still measure a generous 30" around the bottom of the leg. Here's a close-up of the cuff which I made a little wider than the pattern, at 2-1/2" wide.


I also felt that the waist was too bulky and stretched out of shape, so for this version, I used a wide grosgrain ribbon as my waist facing.  This is a great technique for any waist facing that you want to make as light and firm as possible.  I couldn't find any grey or light blue grosgrain in my local stores, so I went with a navy.  This one is 1-1/2" wide.  I stitched it down at every seam, dart, and pleat to hold it in place.


For the top, I used another new Hot Patterns pattern- the Plain and Simple Woven T-shirt and Dress.  Despite the name, this pattern turned out to be anything but Plain and Simple.  To get the fit close to the illustration, I ended up going two full sizes smaller from what was recommended for my measurements.  I also adjusted the shoulder and added waist darts for a little more shaping. Definitely more work than I was planning on, but I really love this new top- mostly for the color!  It's so Springy!


For the shrug, I used a newer McCall's pattern 7135.   I shortened the sleeves by about 6", and left all of the edges raw.  I bought the silver linen blend knit from Fabric Mart last year, and I'm pretty sure that it is mostly polyester with just a touch of linen to give it a pretty texture.  But it is just perfect for wearing on a cool Spring day.


The scarf is made from silk chiffon, also from Fabric Mart. I love a lightweight scarf for Spring.  They are so easy to make too!  Read more about making scarves from fabric here


If you haven't already tried sewing with linen, give it a try!   There really are no special skills or techniques needed.  It's incredibly easy to sew with. I bet you will love it as much as I do.

Happy Sewing!
Ann
SewBaby News

Comments

  1. The only linen I have is a woven linen and rayon blend, and I find it prickly to wear. Is it me? Or did I make the wrong fabric choice? I'd love to hear if anyone else finds linen prickly.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have seen some heavyweight linens that do seem to be more "raw", and I think they might be prickly to wear. But the lighter weight linen that I've sewn with is much more refined and smooth. Definitely not prickly.

      Delete
  2. When I was pregnant with my daughter in the summer of 2008, I was part of a teacher program at the Jamestown/Yorktown Foundation here in VA, where I was able to dress as an historical interpreter. They chose for me to interpret a Colonial woman from the early 1600s and even though I was dressed head to toe in linen, with a huge baby belly, I was fine. Linen is very cooling. I did make sure to drink a lot of water, though. ;-) The people in charge were so sweet, they kept checking in on me, just in case.

    You look so cute in this. I absolutely love the top, what a beautiful mint color for you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Dina. That sounds like a really fun experience!

      Delete
  3. Hmm... I have some linen, but haven't tried it yet. I think it will need to jump up to my soon-to-sew pile!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Angela,
      I didn't mention this before, but it is a good idea to preshrink linen before you sew it. Some of the looser weaves will shrink up quite a bit. It also becomes softer with repeated washings.

      Delete
  4. Your pieces look great on you.I love sewing with linen! The crisp seams ,,the luster, the sophistication of a linen garment. having said that, I'm careful about what I use it for ...mostly skirts, above the elbow sleeved shirts and loose jackts. Sandra Betzina told us when I attended a week long workshop in Halifax, to wash linen in hot water and dry in a hot dryer three times and it would prevent the wrinkling. I find this works wonderfully on high end linen but not on all linens. Worth a try though, don't you think?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Diana! I will try that technique! I do think that this is a high end linen, so I hope it works!

      Delete
  5. Linen is so wonderfully cool to wear and Fabric Mart has always had a wonderful selection. I have several bias sleeveless dresses for the worst of summer heat and love how I can feel nicely dressed in the midst of humid summers. I love your scarf collection as well since I am a scarf junkie and love how what used to be scraps (that 1/2 yard of leftover knit, for example) is now a new scarf in my wardrobe.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I know- scarves can really make a whole outfit work, can't they? Do you have any good ways to store yours?

      Delete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Celebrating warm weather with Spring sewing!

Hi sewing friends! I don’t know about you but boy, was winter cold and dreary this year! The weather here in the Philadelphia area has been slowly improving, but Spring sure did take her sweet old time to arrive. So by April, I was definitely in the headspace of needing to sew up things that were either bright and cheery or meant for the warmer weather I am very much craving right now. I recently purchased a few SewBexx Patterns so I took them on a test run to create some Spring makes. First on my list was to make a top using this absolutely gorgeous ITY fabric I picked up last year. I had two yards which was enough for a long sleeve shirt. I chose the Olivia top, which is oversized with a drop shoulder, has multiple lengths and a split hem. I think the pattern is intended for heavier fabrics but I was envisioning how lovely this top would look with the drape of ITY knit fabric, and it did not disappoint. It came together for me quickly and was a straight forward sew…and I love the br...

Made By A Fabricista | Chasing Time: My White Rabbit-Inspired Look for Atlanta Frocktails

For this year’s Atlanta Frocktails, I found myself captivated by a character who’s been quietly tugging at my imagination for years—the White Rabbit from Alice in Wonderland. There’s something so relatable about his frantic energy, always checking the time, always running late. While he’s worried about being on time, I’m usually calculating how late I can be and still technically arrive on time. Spoiler: I’m often wrong. It’s a cycle of procrastination and anxiety that I know all too well. So when I imagined my look for Frocktails, I thought—why not honor the White Rabbit? After all, time has been chasing me too. But this look isn’t just about Wonderland whimsy. It’s also deeply inspired by this year’s Met Gala theme, Tailored for You, which includes a focus on Black Dandyism—a celebration of Black elegance, intellect, and expressive style. I’ve been obsessed with this theme since it was announced. As a Black creative, I find it powerful and moving to see style used as a way to reclaim...

Made By A Fabricista: Getting into the Spirit of Summer

I'm not gonna lie y'all, I had a completely different project I wanted to do, but that's gonna take more time, and I wanted something cute, comfy and fun to wear for my birthday on the 19th. When I saw this goldenrod & off white linen jacquard , I thought it looked a bit like the design on a Koroks body, especially Makar from The Legend of Zelda: Wind Waker! I started with the bodice from the free Elderberry dress pattern from Mood, but deviated for the skirt, it felt a little plain of a design, and I had scraps of a Korok fabric that I knew would be a nice accent with some cut out pockets. I've made these pockets once before, deciding the cut out was based on aligning with the seam on the bodice for how far in, and as for how low depended on where I wanted the pouch of the pocket to start. From there I cut the visible part of the pocket, making sure to match the curve of the waist and following the line of the side seams of the skirt, as well as cutting a facing to...