I was very interested in this pattern when it was released but didn't buy it because I have a ton of wrap dress patterns (yeah, yeah, that's not a good reason!). It still amazes me, as someone not versed in pattern drafting, how patterns can be so similar yet so different.
This is a true wrap dress --which I love-- and has release pleats at the waist instead of darts. This definitely intrigued me. I also liked the fact that overall it's quite simple, yet it has enough detail to make it stand out.
I chose this kit because of the fabric! The dress itself is a great transition piece and I think the fabric lends to that too. The weight, color/print and the fact that it's a knit really allows it to be worn year-round.
Can I just say that I really love this dress?! If you follow me, you know how much I praise the wrap/surplice silhouette. It's my favorite. I also love the tulip-y wrap and slight hi-low hem.
While I was constructing the dress, I worried the midi-length would look a bit matronly on me. But I think the wrap front helps keep it from going that way. Along with wearing heels!
I cut a size 14 which has a finished bust, waist and hip that results in 1/2 to 1" of negative ease for me. If I were making it in a non-stretch woven, I would use a 14 bodice, do a 1" FBA, and cut a 16 for the skirt.
Other adjustments made were typical for me with BMV patterns. I did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment and 3/4" swayback adjustment. (If it were a woven, I would have also done a 1" full bicep adjustment). I love how the Palmer Pletsch patterns have all the adjustment lines on the pattern. Makes life so much easier!!
The only other adjustment I would make if I were to sew this one again, is to take a 3/8" tuck out of the front. I have a short torso and I have just a little extra fabric between shoulder and bust.
Now, the pattern is intended for a woven so it comes with facings and such. In many ways when sewing with ponte, I generally use it as if it were a woven -- With the exception of facings. I will eliminate them whenever possible.
Instead, I did the longest hem in history; choosing not to serge or do a double turned hem. I wanted the hem to stay very light.
Because I didn't use facings, I had to handle the tie attachment differently. I basted it in place and caught it when hemming the front. I then topstiched the front to the belt. It's a tiny bit messy on the inside! I should have serged the end of the belt. Ah well. It's hidden! :)
Can we just talk about that intersection!!?!?! #winning
I constructed the dress on the serger, but serged the right side of the bodice individually, and stitched the seam by machine, leaving it open as indicated. I then stitched around the opening. It's very neat and secure.
The sleeve is cuffed. For some reason these types of sleeve details never make sense to me when reading the directions. I never 'get it' until I'm actually constructing the sleeve.
Let me tell you, this fabric was amazing to work with! I love that it's double sided. It's like a fun secret that only you are in on! It washed, sewed and pressed well. And it's a really lovely navy and evergreen -- making it so versatile -- and it's soft.
I can definitely see myself making another version of this in a knit and would love to make the long sleeved view with the lovely sleeve facings in a woven this fall. I think you'll see this pattern grace my blog again in the near future, for sure.