Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: There's Navy and Then There's NAVY


I went very bright for my last make so I decided to tone it down with a neutral this month. Navy is a neutral that I lack in my wardrobe as I default to black often so I'm trying to remedy that. The first is a very soft jersey knit with uneven stripes and the second is truly a luxurious wool stretch twill. My plan was to sew a coordinating outfit, but as soon as the fabric arrived I realized that all navy blues aren't created equal. Unfortunately, the two blues were just too different to work together. This was totally my fault as the wool twill description literally states "the darkest navy". Still I love both fabrics so I sewed my original plans, it just seems that these two pieces won't be worn together. Thankfully, I recently purchased this RTW light weight sweater that is a better match to the twill.

Not the best lighting, but trust me they are different.
Let me first tell you about the wool twill suiting, as I am in love with it! Some stretch is a MUST for me in pants and this twill offers four-way stretch thanks to the 5% Lycra content (40% across, 30% lengthwise). The soft feel was the first thing I notice while unboxing and though you can tell it's wool, it's not itchy. I often think heavy and thick when I think wool, but this is the perfect suiting weight. My favorite feature is the drape, which is why I opted for wide leg slacks. Trust me and order yourself a few yards (here). It's in the 70% off category and is a STEAL. The description of "darkest navy", as mentioned above, is accurate as you almost have to hold it up to something black to see that it is in fact blue. I truly wish this was available in multiple colors as I would purchase all of them! I may have to order more for a skirt and/or blazer.


I used Simplicity 1017, which is an Amazing Fit pattern, for these wide leg slacks. Amazing Fit patterns have always worked well for me, though this is my first Amazing Fit pants attempt. They typically feature classic silhouettes which is awesome for newbie as well as experienced sewists. The detailed step-by-step instructions provide a method of construction that allows you to fit as you sew. All of the fitting seams, ie side seams in these slacks, have a built in 1" seam allowance to allow for fitting adjustments.


I do have one tip that I learned for a sewist on Instagram (I really wish I remembered who shared it) and want to share with you. When you have facings that required a finished edge sew the iron on interfacing with RSF along the edge that needs finishing, trim the seam allowance and then fuse the interfacing WSF. This results in a clean finished edge that does require moving to you serger, adding bulking bias tape or switching your stitch to a zig-zag. 



Now that I have this fit down, I see myself sewing these over and over. They may be the only slacks I wear to work! Don't you just love when you pair great fabric with the perfect pattern? I know I do. This project was definitely a perfect pairing.


Now let's talk about this simple tee I sewed using Simplicity 8177 (which contains a great tee pattern that is often overlooked). Sewing a tee is pretty simple if you're familiar with working with knits, but matching stripes on a jersey fabric can be tricky. The safest bet to keep the stripes straight is to cut out each piece on a single layer but this would mean tracing the front and back pieces to create a full piece. To avoid that (because I'm lazy) I carefully laid out my fabric and then folded over just enough to cut the front piece before pinning the selvage edge aligning the stripes. This helps to ensure the fabric doesn't slip and it prevents the selvage edge from curling up.


When placing the pattern piece I line up a particular feature of the pattern, such as a notch or a dot, and make sure it lines up with something on the fabric. Here I use the extend/shorten line on the back and line it up with the bottom of a white line. Then when I cut the front piece I set up my fabric the same way and line up the extend/shorten line up again with the bottom of the white line. This ensures my side seams will line up. 


When sewing I take the same approach and pin the seams together lining up the stripes. Though this is a thinner jersey I didn't have any issues sewing it up. To be extra safe you can use a walking foot which helps your machine feed both layers under your presser foot at the same rate, so you lines stay aligned.
I don't worry so much about matching at the sleeve seam because lining up
stripes along a curve is annoying, but look at that side seam!
I love my tee and this jersey is so smooth and soft that it's a dream to wear. Sometimes these types of basic makes don't get much love, but they are usually the items that get the most wear. 


What are your favorite basics? and which fabrics do you keep on hand for those types of projects?








Comments

  1. I love this post. The pants look wonderful and I may need to try again, the fba (full bum adjustment) is a big challenge. Classic look that is a great staple in any wardrobe.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I too typically need a BBA (big booty adjustment is what I call it), but I didn't add anything to the back rise and surprisingly cut the average back based on my measurements. In hindsightI should've added maybe a 1/2" to the back crotch, but in this fabric which has a vertical stretch it's fine. I definitely say give these a try.

      Delete
  2. Nice job. I feel your pain on the navy that doesn't match. I've also had black that doesn't match. Seems impossible, but it can be too brown looking and not go with anything.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Comfort Dressing with Style

As 2021 draws to a close,  I don’t think it comes as a surprise that comfort dressing is here to stay, at least for a while. Now the definition of comfort dressing is different for all of us, and for me it means knits. However, I don’t always want to be in yoga pants and tees. That’s why I chose to sew a knit skirt and top using Vogue 1820. This two-piece ensemble gives me the comfort of yoga pants but in a more stylish way. The beauty of this design is that you can mix-and-match prints and/or solids, creating a one-of-a-kind look. Fabric Mart Fabrics has a multitude of knits to choose from at any given time which made it easy to choose coordinating fabrics. I knew I wanted to use prints in a monochromatic color scheme.  To find the five fabrics needed, I started by browsing the knit section on Fabric Mart’s website.  I knew I wanted black as my base color. As I found fabrics I thought would coordinate, I put them in my shopping cart.  That way I could look at the shopping cart and eas

Made By A Fabricista: Ready For A Cruise

Happy new year! This year my husband and I are looking forward to a late spring river cruise to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary.  Since I started last year sewing my outfits for the various excursions on land, the only garment pieces left to sew were those I will wear on the ship. I wanted these to be interchangeable, so I picked gray as my base color.  I wanted very comfortable garments for ease of movement around the ship. Luckily Fabric Mart was running a huge knit sale and pattern sales were going on in many stores and online. For lounge wear, the heathered medium gray polyester/lycra double brushed knit (SKU: DLD3889d) was perfect for a jacket and a pair of pants. I used McCall’s M7294 pattern for the loose-fitting unlined jacket and Butterick B6137 for the semi-fitting pants with elasticized waistband, pockets, and leg bands. For me, attaching the leg bands gave a better finish than hemming.  For the top, the golden yellow/off-white polyester/rayon/lycra tie-dye French ter

Made By A Fabricista: A Year of Reflection

I can’t believe we have made it to the end of another year.  Since this post is coming out right around the holidays, I wanted to create something with a bit more glam. I found this velvet sequin knit and I will say it is even more gorgeous in person.  For my look I decided to make the Mimi G x Simplicity S9370 but I decided to turn it into a gown! To do this I measured from my waist to floor to add the additional length that I needed and added additional to the back to make it have a small train.  I spread the hem of the skirt to create more of a trumpet style silhouette which made the perfect gown. This fabric was actually very easy to work with, since it is a velvet, it does have nap, so I had to make sure that I cut in the correct direction.  I also noted that I should have pre-washed this fabric before using because the fabric dye did rub off a lot as I was working on it. Once I tried my dress on to check the fit I was in love! It was so comfortable and fit perfectly.  The waist