Skip to main content

Summer of T-Shirts Event: Raglan Sleeves

This week's post is by Tereza from the blog, Sewing for Me. She will be taking you through the steps of turning a basic t-shirt into a raglan sleeve tee. 


Sometimes I get tired of starting the fitting process with new patterns, so I decided to learn pattern drafting. Personally, reading through the books was overwhelming and intimidating. I decided to start with pattern modifications to patterns I've used before rather than with blank paper. This mid-point has proved a great learning step for me and has still taught me some great drafting principles.

For this project, I began with my favorite t-shirt pattern-StyleArc's Adele Tunic. It is a basic tee with an asymmetrical hem, set-in sleeves, and an optional neckband.




To change a basic sleeve to a raglan sleeve, you'll need a straight edge ruler, tracing paper, a pencil, several markers in different colors, and pattern weights.



I start a project like this by tracing off a copy of my original pattern, so I don't lose a TNT pattern. Personally, I like using large pieces of tracing paper that I can easily purchase at the chain craft stores. I started with the pencil, then marked my changes with a colored pen so I could keep track of my changes. I also added to the .25" seam allowance to give me adjustment room just in case.


Step 1: measure off 1" below the armhole on the shirt front, back, and sleeve. This will lower the armhole seam. Because of the change to the armholes and sleeves, this adjustment allows for movement.




Step 2: Measure off 1.25" from the CF and CB on the front and back pieces. This will be the upper edge of the raglan seam.

Step 3: I used the sleeve notches as a measurement point to keep it easy. Mark a dot .5" above the notches on the front, back, and sleeve pieces. These are the lower edge of the raglan seam.


Step 4: Connect the dots on the front and back piece with your straight edge. Then cut along the line you just made.




Step 5: Now you will match the dots to attach these new pieces to the sleeve head. It might be helpful to remove the seam allowances if you want. You will notice that during this step you do lose some of the sleeve head. Be careful to line up seams at the dots!


Step 6: Finally, you need to add the seam allowances to the front and back pieces. I also like to mark the new seam lines with the sleeve head dart that takes the job of the shoulder seam.

I also like to visually double check the seams to make sure that I didn't add anything that shouldn't be there. Then I made a sample! I'm glad I did, because I made an odd angle on the back piece. It was easy to fix, first by stitching a new line on the sample and smoothing out the seam lines on the pattern pieces.



Once I refined the fit and decided I liked the placement of the seams with the sample, I cut into my fashion fabrics. Here's how I stitched it up.
1) Stitch darts in sleeve heads.
2) Stitch sleeve backs to back, right sides together.



3) Stitch sleeve fronts to front, right sides together.

4) Stitch sleeve seam and side seam in one step.

5) Stitch/stretch neckband to finish neckline.
6) Hem sleeves and bottom hem the amount included in the pattern. Press and enjoy!





Every Monday throughout the summer, we will share with you a pattern hack on a t-shirt pattern.

Don't forget you can sew along with us at home. Share you t-shirt pattern hacks (new ideas you have and ideas that we have shared with you) on Facebook and Instagram using #FMSummerofTshirtsAt the end of the summer, we will compile all the people that used the hashtag and you will be entered into a random drawing for $75 gift certificate to Fabric Mart!

We've also put together a t-shirt inspiration board on Pinterest. Check it out HERE.

Comments

  1. Wow, that was very interesting. You gave good instructions with your steps. I doubt I will ever be making that adjustment but you gave me something to think about. I've been sewing since I was 13 but moved on to quilts for the past 20 years. Want to pick up sewing for myself again so I will stick to fitting patterns. But I really enjoyed reading this. Thanks. Your tee turned out real nice.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Very nice! I love the colors and the fit. You look great!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made By A Fabricista: Why Sew A Muslin

Here it is, my September blog post featuring Newlook N6692 and this pretty rayon challis from Fabric Mart! This pattern style is so in right now. The square neckline, cute puff sleeves and the tiered skirt are all exactly what I was looking for in a summer dress. As always I started with making a muslin first!  Let’s get into why it’s important to start with a muslin.  A muslin is basically a practice garment. It prevents you from cutting into your good fabric prematurely.  I usually use a muslin fabric (natural cotton) but you should also consider using a fabric that is the same weight as your fashion fabric. This will give you a truer gauge of how the garment is going to lay in the final fabric. Anytime I try out a new pattern company I make a muslin. This was my first time using a Newlook pattern so I need to know what the ease would be like for this pattern. Also I need to see how the bust would fit me and where I would need to make adjustments. Plus there were some new techniques

Made By A Fabricista: The Love of Sewing - Basic Pieces for a Beginner

Happy Friday All! It has been a while since I made myself a dress. I am excited to sew after not making anything since my last post (whew) and finally sharing some photos.  This past summer has been a roller coaster journey with plans to release a small collection and then deciding that right before the launch to postpone. Sewing has brought me joy over the past 8 years and the mere fact to sew daily for orders had me in a panic mode. I really don’t want to walk away from my craft due to burn out  and decided that if I do sew for others, it would be only for local clients. Moreover, If next year I decide to launch, it would be seasonal and not year round. I really want to share my talent and love for sewing with others but don’t want it to be a full time job and lose the passion in me.  After a bit of soul searching, teaching and sharing my talent with my community will always be my first love. For the past 2 summers, I was blessed to partner with two nonprofit organizations’ local sum

Made By A Fabricista: Two Late Summer Dresses in Bold Stylized Prints

Hello Sewing Friends! Sharon here with my latest Fabricista make, two dresses that will transition into fall.   You probably noticed I didn’t choose traditional autumn prints or colors.  I planned to, but just couldn’t bring myself to think about cool weather colors and fabrics when the temperatures were still over 100 degrees F.  Instead, I decided to sew a couple of late summer dresses that I can wear when the temps begin to dip into the 80s.   The first is a maxi shirt dress sewn out of this amazing rayon twill . Oh, the drape on this one is divine! The stylized white hearts really pop against the black background. Even though the print is bold, the colors are classic making it easy to accessorize with any color.  My big puppy like to hang close to me when I take photos, but she accessorizes well with whatever I’m wearing 😊 The pattern is the Style Arc Anais Dress. I’ve had my eye on this pattern for some time just waiting for the perfect fabric.  Now that I’ve sewn the dress, I wa