Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Made by a Fabricista: My First Jumpsuit...Success!

I've always admired people that can pull off a jumpsuit. They look so stylish and for most, make them look taller. I've tried on jumpsuits before in the store but with unsuccessful outcomes. They made me look short and were not flattering at my tummy. So I decided that jumpsuits and rompers were not for me.

Then McCall's came out with M7577, a cross-body romper/jumpsuit. It looked so awesome on the model and in the fabric choice that I decided I was going to give it a try. I chose the jumpsuit length because I was afraid that the romper would make me look too short. At least the length of the legs *should* help me.


I used a 100% rayon challis crepe that was in our retail store selection. We only had about 15 yards of it, so I snatched up the rest just after someone else purchased a piece! I pre-wash all my fabric so any shrinkage that would have happened, happened. Rayon is well known for shrinking so this was a must. For the back insert I used a navy blue lace from Marc Jacobs. I got it from Fabric Mart a few years ago when we had an amazing selection of MJ's fabric! 

I'm a big fan of tissue fitting (if you haven't figured that out already) and I tissue fit the entire garment on me. Being that it is a loose fitting garment, I had some wiggle room, but let me tell you--even if something is loose fitting and you *think* you will fit, tissue fit it first (if that's your method of adjusting.) One too many times have I thought there would be enough room and some area always ended up being too small. Remember, with tissue fitting (the Palmer/Pletsch tissue fitting method) you select a size based off of your HIGH BUST measurement. Therefore, even if the finished garment size says one thing for the finished bust measurement, it doesn't mean it will just fit somewhere else. You have to try on the tissue and do the appropriate adjustments. 


I cut out a size 12 and adjusted from there. I did usual adjustments - forward shoulder, high round back, a full bust adjustment and lower the crotch curve.

I also moved the waistline. I find that garments with an obvious waist like a elastic waist maxi dress or a peplum top look better on me when hitting just above the narrowest part of my waist. I raised the waistline on the bodice about 1".


Overall, I'm really happy with the way it turned out. It doesn't make me look short and the fit is pretty good. I think the things I'm not happy with are similar to comments I have read from other bloggers, like Tiffany, one of our Fabricista bloggers. 

Here are a few things I'm a little unhappy with:

- The front wrap seems pretty loose. Yes, I did a full bust adjustment but I needed it to make sure the front didn't gap weirdly but still fit my shoulders. It doesn't gap and it does cover my bust, but it does droop as a move. I'd love to tack it in place but when I tried doing that I couldn't get the jumpsuit off---ooops!! Next option is to put a snap on it or wear a cami. We'll see what I decide.



- The back lace piece drooped creating pools. You don't see it in the photo below, but I did some major reworking at the shoulder seams to help with that. (I also helped a little with the front being too loose.) It could be that I needed to have a higher round back. 


- I added a little length to the pants hem because I always seem to have to hike up my pants for a flattering look. In the tissue I dropped the crotch curve about 1". (Typical adjustment.) When I do that, it usually shortens the pant hem and then I don't have enough for a hem! This also had to be done because I raised the waistline. 

For these photos, I chose to use the belt that came with the pattern. I could also see it worn with a chunky belt. I posted a photo on our Instagram page a few weeks ago with a chunky belt (I didn't have the other belt made yet) and it looked really good. The color wasn't quite right, but you get the idea. 

If you've been wanting to try this pattern, I'd definitely recommend it! With a little bit of fitting, you can get a great looking jumpsuit that will flatter your body.

I'll be wearing this on my vacation to Las Vegas in May, so I'll let you know how it wears in real life!


Happy Sewing!
~ Julie

22 comments:

  1. Well that is a beautiful jumpsuit!!! I'm a big fan of the tissue fit method. I took a class with Patti and use it all the time!!!! I also use her FBA method.

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  2. Wow! You did great. I've bought a pattern and material for a kikimo( I think spellings correct), but I haven't gotten the nerve to try it yet! It's on my list. You did a wonderful job on this!!

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    1. Thank you! I'm sure your sewing project will turn out well! Were you meaning kimono? You shouldn't have a lot of fit issues with something like that. Let us know how it goes!

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  3. Gorgeous jumpsuit - love the fabric! I agree re tissue fitting - I get together monthly with a sewing group (facilitated by a sewing guru) and she's certified in the Palmer/Pletsch tissue fitting method so she guides us regularly through the process and it's amazing what a great fit you can get working with the tissue first. I find that problem often happens with my wraps - that it can be loose and it's a tricky business to figure out how to tighten it up - maybe next time try clear elastic?

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    1. Thanks for the comments Kathleen! That's great that you get together with others to do fitting. The clear elastic could be a good option!

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  5. Julie, that is so cute! I love the back lace as well!

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  6. Wow! That looks fantastic! Great job getting the perfect fit. Have a wonderful vacation.

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  7. wow great job Julie! It looks comfy and I really like the fabric. One question though. When choosing a jumpsuit, do you choose the bust or hip size when selecting the pattern size?

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  8. Could the band need to be shortened a bit so that it is stretched slightly when you sew it on. Like one does when you make a t-shirt? Looks great!!

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  9. What a beautiful jumpsuit! I think success is the operative word. I love the added lace at the back--it really accentuates the style well!

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