Made by a Fabricista: Structure

Hi everyone! I can’t believe the year is nearly wrapping up already and this is my last post for 2024!

You may have noticed but the barrel silhouette has been very much in right now from pants to sleeves. To be honest I was a little bit hesitant about hopping on to the trend. One I was not sure if the proportions would work for my body also I considered would this be a long lasting trend to keep incorporated in my closet? But after a few seasons the barrel seems to stay in many variations, I think exaggerated proportions are such a thing now.

I saw this Cult Gaia x Gap denim dress collab with the barrel sleeves and wanted to remake it. When I saw this brown distressed denim twill I knew it was perfect. I had been debating between making cargo pants but I wanted to try to do something different and went for the dress once I saw the inspiration.

I used McCall’s pattern 8139 as my base with the following modifications. Instead of a front button placket I installed a separating metal zipper. I redrafted the sleeves to make the barrel shape like in the reference image. It's a two piece sleeve by adding fullness and a dart to the upper sleeve.

The fabric used was perfect, it was able to hold shape well and gave it this really nice finish. I love the distressed wash of the fabric. It even paired well with my Bestie Bag that I made a few months ago using some Camo I got from the Fabric Mart site. I wore my look out while visiting St. Louis, MO. The Gateway Arch is a national monument and created the perfect backdrop.

JASMINE | @sewmuchjazz

Made By A Fabricista: The Sheer Volume Of It All!

This garment was inspired by a dress I saw in an ad, and when I went to purchase it (which I rarely do)…I realized that the dress didn’t come in my size. Ticked off and with $300 back in my pocket, I decided to draft it myself. The description listed the fabrication as a silk cotton voile, so I used that as a starting point to recreate the simple yet elegant silhouette. My drafting experience is limited; I’ve only ever made garments that are pleated rectangles that fit into an elasticated waist. No darts, no complicated calculations, and definitely no sleeves. But I’d have that dress if it’s the last thing I do! I made a drawing, created a Pinterest board to document my inspiration, and narrowed down the features I really wanted to have: billowy bubble-hemmed bishop sleeves (say it three times fast!), a fitted and lined bodice, and a gathered tiered skirt. Finally, it was time to shop for fabric. I knew I wanted a silk blend of some kind, without breaking the bank. For weeks, I ke...

Made By A Fabricista: Just Wear It Out!

Originally I wasn’t happy with my make this time around. I put it on fresh off the sewing machine and didn’t love how it fit. My elastic was slightly too narrow for what the pattern called for. I did end up putting a stitch to close up the v-neck on the top. I thought my sewing on the waistband looked sloppy and I looked kind of frumpy in the outfit. I was going to put the project down to fix later but decided to wear it out for some feedback from our web manager and one of the describers. I ended up pleasantly surprised! The fabric is super comfortable and I felt really good wearing it. All the things I didn’t like kind of melted away wearing it out. The flaws were so small that only I noticed them. I think it’s important to remember that while striving for perfect seams and flawless construction is good, a handmade garment doesn’t have to be perfect to be wearable. This isn’t the first time I’ve softened on a garment after wearing, and it certainly won’t be the last! The 100% c...

Made By A Fabricista: In Love with Linen

Linen is the best fabric to sew and wear. I selected a beautiful 100% linen from Fabric Mart that is a steel blue and cream floral linen to sew up a By Hand London Hannah Wrap Dress pattern. The flowers look like Dahlias. I originally sewed a Toile from a black and white cotton bedsheet, wore the dress a lot but never made it again. I gave the Toile away to a friend who always commented on how much she loved the dress. When I saw this fabric, I knew I wanted to make the Hannah again. Linen is so easy to sew the entire experience reminded me why linen remains one of my favorite fabrics to sew. I look for a light to medium weight European linen for a dress. I like a rayon or cotton blend with linen because it seems to have more drape and be more soft. Linen gets softer with washing and wearing it. This particular linen feels crisp and after ironing and washing, softens up. I like how Fabric Mart describes the fabrics as top, dress, blouse, shirt weight under “Use” and will describe...

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