Skip to main content

Made by a Fabricista: All about the seams.


Did you think I was done with chartreuse? Well...I'm not! I decided to add another level of gray and chartreuse to the suit I made back in December (see here).


As soon as I saw this wool and cashmere double faced coating by Michael Kors I knew I had to have it. It was offered in several color combos, but quite a few are sold out. Check out the available colors and all the other amazing coating fabrics here. When it arrived I was blown away, not just by the colors (which I already knew I loved), but by the softness of the brushed finish. It's divine!


Since this wool is double faced I knew I had to make something that would show both sides. I initially thought of a belted cape, like McCalls 6209, but ultimately decided on Butterick 6244. Not only does the waterfall collar show both sides, but thanks to the flat felled seams it is also reversible.


It you haven't sewn flat felled seams it's surprisingly simple, if a bit time consuming. I will note that it is a bit trickier on heavier materials (like this wool). Start by sewing your seam as usual then follow the steps below.

  1. Trim one side of the seam allowance to 1/4"
  2. Fold the longer seam allowance over the trimmed side to the seam stitching
  3. Fold over encasing the trimmed seam allowance 
  4. Edgestitch the seam
  5. Finished flat seam
The only seam in this pattern that doesn't call for flat felled seams is the armsyce. Here (as well as  the underarm seam simply because I couldn't figure out how to do a flat felled seam there) I opted for a french seams. A French seam is also rather simple, though they might take a tad bit of thinking ahead. For French seams you start by sewing the wrong sides together. This feels weird and I had to think twice on this project as the fabric is double faced. See the steps below.


  1. Sew wrong sides together with a little less than have the called for seam allowance (here about 1/4" due to the 5/8" seam). Press the seam
  2. Flip the seam so that the right sides are together.
  3. Pin and sew the seam with a slightly larger that half of the seam allowance 3/8" (or just enough to encase the raw edges from the other side.)
  4. Now there is a clean seam on the right side and a encased seam on the wrong side. 
*Optional: You could edgestitch this seam and it would look similar to the flat felled.

I find the French seam easier to sew as it eliminates the cutting step, but both have their uses. Are you meticulous about your inside finishings? What's your favorite seam finish?

See you next month!

Tiffany
TipStitched.com


Comments

  1. Just gorgeous! I purchased some of the Michael Kors Wool as well. I just love it!

    ReplyDelete
  2. wow that looks great. How clever to make it reversible. Definitely worth the effort

    ReplyDelete
  3. I purchased this too! Are the front edges left raw?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They're are currently, but they are fraying. So I'm either going to have to bind them in bias, serge or do a narrow hem.

      Delete
  4. That is a beautiful outfit! I bought the mango/oatmeal colorway and I am trying to choose a
    pattern to use both sides. The hand of this wool/cashmere is just wonderful.



    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Doesn't it feel amazing?! I definitely vote reversible if possible or something with a hi-low hem.

      Delete
  5. Your coat, simply put, is absolutely stunning & looks beautiful on you.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks for leaving a comment! All comments are reviewed before posting to help us eliminate spam. Your comment will be posted within 24 hours.

Popular Posts You Might Like

Made by a Fabricista: Summer Dreaming

 Summer Dreaming | A Tropical Faux Jumpsuit and Sheer Ruffled Duster I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of spring with its promise of warmer temps and lots of sunshine.  Anyone else? With that in mind, I choose to showcase two of the fabulous shirting fabrics offered by Fabric Mart Fabrics. The combination of the semi-sheer shirting with the tropical print shirting has me dreaming of walking along a beach with the waves gently lapping against the shoreline and the sun shining brightly down on me. The coral shirting is a beautiful piece of fabric with its hint of shimmer and tiny stripes alternating between opaque and sheer.  I choose to sew a tiered maxi-length button front dress using Simplicity 9114.  Because of the semi-sheer nature of the fabric, I will wear this as a duster. If you’ve shied away from sewing sheers for fear of the difficulties you may face, this type of fabric is the perfect way to start!  Because it is a cotton/nylon blend it was easier to sew than a silky chiffon

Made by a Fabricista: Coming Up Roses

 From vision to reality. As we are headed into April, I can feel the spring breeze on the horizon and with that means fun time outside, be it eating brunch with friends on a terrace or going to the park on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.  I knew that I wanted to add some bright fun color into my spring wardrobe that I really haven't used and over a year.  I had been eyeing this beautiful red stripe shirting with blue roses fabric for a while not knowing exactly what I wanted to do with it but knew that I was super drawn to it.   Once I picked it up, I decided to sketch out my ideas and went through my pattern stash to see what I could come up with. For this project I used a vintage pattern See & Sew 5549.  It’s actually for a long sleep shirt that I then made some alterations to.  I lengthened the sleeves by an inch and extended the side slits up to the waistline because I knew that I would mostly be wearing this shirt open.  Also since I planned to wear it mostly open I only did

Made by a Fabricista: Use Those Views! Sewing the Grainline Studio Willow Tank

Spring is here! Honestly, I'm still bundled up in sweatshirts most of the time, but the afternoons are getting glorious and warm and just a t-shirt will suffice for a couple of hours in the warmth on some days so I know the overwhelming heat is not far off. I love planning and organizing in all facets of my life, and spring garments for my wardrobe are on my mind. Naturally tanks are at the forefront of my strategizing for comfort in hot weather and I wanted to branch out with a little something new.  Anyone else have patterns that they've been eyeing for ages but haven't pulled the trigger? Who knows why I've kept putting off sewing the Grainline Studio Willow Tank . I've long admired the simple lines and I'm absolutely sure it would fit into my overall style. I've even tried drafting something similar myself with varying degrees of success, but never quite on the nose. A simple tank can go with just about everything from jeans to skirts to a high-waisted a