Made by a Fabricista: All about the seams.

Did you think I was done with chartreuse? Well...I'm not! I decided to add another level of gray and chartreuse to the suit I made back in December (see here).

As soon as I saw this wool and cashmere double faced coating by Michael Kors I knew I had to have it. It was offered in several color combos, but quite a few are sold out. Check out the available colors and all the other amazing coating fabrics here. When it arrived I was blown away, not just by the colors (which I already knew I loved), but by the softness of the brushed finish. It's divine!

Since this wool is double faced I knew I had to make something that would show both sides. I initially thought of a belted cape, like McCalls 6209, but ultimately decided on Butterick 6244. Not only does the waterfall collar show both sides, but thanks to the flat felled seams it is also reversible.

It you haven't sewn flat felled seams it's surprisingly simple, if a bit time consuming. I will note that it is a bit trickier on heavier materials (like this wool). Start by sewing your seam as usual then follow the steps below.

Trim one side of the seam allowance to 1/4"
Fold the longer seam allowance over the trimmed side to the seam stitching
Fold over encasing the trimmed seam allowance
Edgestitch the seam
Finished flat seam

The only seam in this pattern that doesn't call for flat felled seams is the armsyce. Here (as well as the underarm seam simply because I couldn't figure out how to do a flat felled seam there) I opted for a french seams. A French seam is also rather simple, though they might take a tad bit of thinking ahead. For French seams you start by sewing the wrong sides together. This feels weird and I had to think twice on this project as the fabric is double faced. See the steps below.

Sew wrong sides together with a little less than have the called for seam allowance (here about 1/4" due to the 5/8" seam). Press the seam
Flip the seam so that the right sides are together.
Pin and sew the seam with a slightly larger that half of the seam allowance 3/8" (or just enough to encase the raw edges from the other side.)
Now there is a clean seam on the right side and a encased seam on the wrong side.

*Optional: You could edgestitch this seam and it would look similar to the flat felled.

I find the French seam easier to sew as it eliminates the cutting step, but both have their uses. Are you meticulous about your inside finishings? What's your favorite seam finish?

See you next month!

Tiffany
TipStitched.com

Made By A Fabricista: Falling for Knits

We are now well into Fall, even though the temps are still relatively warm here in Texas. I love the fall season and dressing for Fall. When it comes to the conversation of knits vs. wovens I typically sew mostly wovens. So for this post I decided to sew completely knits! With the holiday season right around the corner I saw these three dress styles as perfect for Friendsgiving/Thanksgiving gatherings. The first look is a tried and true pattern Simplicity S9372. Using this gorgeous burgundy ponte knit , I like how this pattern fits throughout. I chose this color to add to my typically neutral palette in my closet. I also wanted something I could wear to my sorority meetings and found this color perfect. It's an easy sew with back fisheye darts and invisible zipper to add to the tapered style. The neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding giving it a clean finish on the inside. I used a universal needle to sew a...

Made By A Fabricista: Closing 2025 with a Lined Jacket

Hello again, sewing friends! It seems we have arrived yet again in the grandest season for layering, all this oncoming cold weather. I like ending the year with something warm and very useful. Seems based on my past Fabricista posts, I love to sew year-end outerwear, and this round is no different! I challenged myself with a new lined coat (wait, jacket? Coat? I feel like the presence of wool changes things?). Anyhoo, since the lovely Chalk & Notch Den Jacket has been in my queue, I proceeded ahead. I like the large pockets, the option to line or not, and the extra bodice and sleeve seams for topstitching. Sewing this coat is not at all difficult, but the many pieces and loads of topstitching will take a bit of time. My version took me a few multiple-hour sessions to complete. I sewed a size 2, which matches my measurements, and I made no alterations. Hint: for a quick size test, just employ the lining pieces. Gorgeous, muted blue as a soft wool flannel ? This is ...

Made By A Fabricista: Chalk and Notch Wren Dress: My Buffet dress for the Christmas season!

I recently sewed the Chalk and Notch Wren dress using a beautifully soft black voile from Fabric Mart, and it turned into such a satisfying, enjoyable project. The pattern itself is very easy to understand and straightforward with clear instructions, intuitive construction, and a relaxed fit that makes the sewing process easy. A buffet dress in the sewing community is a dress that is loose fitting, so you can eat at the buffet without your dress being uncomfortable afterwards, lol! Because the voile I chose is extremely thin and transparent, I opted to line the bodice and first tier. Adding a lining not only provided modesty but also gave the delicate fabric a bit more stability, especially around the neckline and button placket. A helpful tip when sewing a lining into a lightweight bodice is to treat the lining and the main fabric as one. I sewed the bodice as you would for a lined bodice, and the first tier I sewed the pieces together with a basting stitch to make the process...

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